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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been thinking about doing a spring over axel conversion on my 90 YJ. I have been told that it is fairly easy but then again I don't have a clue. Can anyone help me out and let me know what all do I have to change out if anything at all.
 

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we just got done doing a SOA on my friends Yj, doing the spring over is pretty easy, the extra things you gotta do is what costs the money. you will have to do a slip yoke eleminator kit with CV drive shaft its about 500.00 for the parts, and you will have to modify the steering, you can put a high steer kit on it for about 500.00 n parts or you can modify the drag link, you will have to put long travle shocks, between 250-300 dollars, and if you go above 33 inch ties you will want to beef up the d35 axle or swap it out. also you have to put extend brake lines, and a transfer case lowering kit. the brake lines are about 110.00 and the t case kit is 40.00. I can help you when you get ready to do it all like I said we just got through with my friends but I would advise getting all the parts together befor starting so your jeep is not sitting on blocks for 6 weeks... we can do the whole job in a weekend if you got all the ish do do it with.
 

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I think that the general rule with SOA concersions is... if you have to ask what all is involved, you are not ready to tear into it yourself. Now, I am not saying that it is not a good idea or you shouldn't do it, but you need to do a bunch of research first. Ther are tons of articles and such on line to help give you an idea of what is involved and what parts are needed. I am sure you will get some useful information here too. Spend some time looking for some write ups and make a good list of what you need and then go to town.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have been told I would get a lot more flex out of my jeep if I do a SOA but then again if it is more trouble then it is worth then I probably steer away from this idea then
 

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donald said:
I have been told I would get a lot more flex out of my jeep if I do a SOA but then again if it is more trouble then it is worth then I probably steer away from this idea then
For the most part you are correct. A SOA rig will flex out much better than not. However every year the technology with the leaf spring seems to get better and I see SUA guys getting some pretty good flex out of their rigs.

There is a lot involved with tackling a SOA and if you are concerned that it might be too much then it probably is.
 

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also be aware that soa makes the stock springs wear out fast because of the increased flex also be prepared for some serious axle wrap on acceleration and deceleration
 

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3jeepguy said:
also be aware that soa makes the stock springs wear out fast because of the increased flex also be prepared for some serious axle wrap on acceleration and deceleration
my axle wrap was so severe the yokes on the rear pumpkin would bind if i really got on it. cracked several u-joint caps and bent several staps that hold the u-joint caps in place.

eventually installed a skyjacker 5th link. make sure you have a competant welder put the 5th link on as mine was torn off the axle in an uphill climb. left a small hole in my d-44 axle tube when it ripped free.

very good flex out of stock springs. however i have gone to RE 1.5" spring over since then. RE sells a spring over kit, http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Products.aspx?Cn=187&Pn=2006&XnPath=173,179,,187&Vid=04E183500 has most of the parts you'll need.

al
 

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soa help

I put a soa on my 95, without ever doing anything like this before, everyone said I needed to do a sye and driveshaft well I did my spring over in 03 and put 36" swampers on and Ive never had a problem with vibs or axle wrap I quess im the lucky one.
but If I had to do it over I would go with the 4.5" RE far better. I mean the soa with stock springs flexs great and rides like it was stock. just my 2 cents. any more people are going with spring unders. but if your going to save money do the soa. I had $275 in the kit then another 125 for shocks. no biggy.
 

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I put a soa on my 95, without ever doing anything like this before, everyone said I needed to do a sye and driveshaft well I did my spring over in 03 and put 36" swampers on and Ive never had a problem with vibs or axle wrap I quess im the lucky one.
but If I had to do it over I would go with the 4.5" RE far better. I mean the soa with stock springs flexs great and rides like it was stock. just my 2 cents. any more people are going with spring unders. but if your going to save money do the soa. I had $275 in the kit then another 125 for shocks. no biggy.

what brand springs were your soa springs? was your 95 an auto or stick? i understand the autos don't feel it or experience it as much.
 

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I think that the general rule with SOA concersions is... if you have to ask what all is involved, you are not ready to tear into it yourself. .... do a bunch of research first.
Asking a question here IS research. Your 'general rule' applies to about everything in life, it you don't know what the frell you are doing, don't do it.

A SOA is not tough to understand, it just has a lot of things that need understanding. A tall lift means drive line angles change and have to be dealt with. Big tires the lift allows mean axle strength becomes a concern. Relocating the springs means steering geometry is altered, things will hit things that weren't there before. Doing the job right means welding on parts, which leads to getting pinion and caster angles right.

It's very doable, and will come out fine with appropriate forethought. Don't do any part of it halfazz.
 

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Asking a question here IS research. Your 'general rule' applies to about everything in life, it you don't know what the frell you are doing, don't do it.

A SOA is not tough to understand, it just has a lot of things that need understanding. A tall lift means drive line angles change and have to be dealt with. Big tires the lift allows mean axle strength becomes a concern. Relocating the springs means steering geometry is altered, things will hit things that weren't there before. Doing the job right means welding on parts, which leads to getting pinion and caster angles right.

It's very doable, and will come out fine with appropriate forethought. Don't do any part of it halfazz.
Nicely put!
 
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