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Discussion Starter #1
My wife's '14 Sahara 2 door has had fairly soft brakes since we got it (it has ~55K miles on it). It is our first Wrangler so we didn't know if they were fine, or not so much. Fast forward a few weeks and I picked up my '13 Rubicon 2 door. What a difference in the feel of the brakes. The Rubicon has much firmer brakes, grabs sooner, and stops quicker. The Rubicon had new pads and rotors on the rear right before we picked it up (though they didn't touch the parking brake, but that's another story).

Ok, time to fix the Wife's Sahara. Started in the back, replaced the back rotors and pads, and rebuilt the parking brake. Back rotors were well worn, with abnormal wear patterns. PO had replaced the pads, but not the rotors, so the pads were jacked up.

Well, the 'ol Sahara didn't like that at all and the brake pedal just goes all the way to the floor now, hardly any stopping at all. Ok, next step, new fluid, bled the brakes. Not much better so replaced the rear calipers. Went through multiple iterations of brake bleeding, both back ones, front ones, ect. Standard brake bleeding (engine running), start with passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Pedal is still very mushy, and pretty much goes to the floor.

I hate just throwing parts at something, but I figure the next step is the brake master cylinder, or new brake lines.

Brake lines look fine, and felt them while wife was pushing on the pedal, no odd bulges or anything like that.

Brake master cylinder looks fine too, but if it was leaking internally, you would't see it. Doesn't seem to be losing fluid though.

I can't find a master cylinder locally, and not sure if the JKs have a RPO sticker anywhere like GM's do. No idea if the Sahara has standard brakes (apparently code BRW) or heavy duty brakes (BR6), so I'm not sure which one to order.

Anyone have any experiences or thoughts on these issues? The MC seems like the next logical step to me.

Front brakes seem find, standard wear on the pads/rotors.
 

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if you do indeed have all the air out ,I would try doing an ABS computer bleed before I threw any more parts at it
 

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if you do indeed have all the air out ,I would try doing an ABS computer bleed before I threw any more parts at it
I've been trying to read up on that. Not sure where to borrow a scan tool from.

Any way to do it without a scan tool?
 

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I've done an "ABS bleed" some of my track cars by using a dirt road, accelerating to whatever speed and then bury the brake pedal multiple times engaging ABS until you stop (or almost stop). Ice is much better, but hard to find this time of year. You'll still need to do a brake bleed after.
 

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I've been trying to read up on that. Not sure where to borrow a scan tool from.

Any way to do it without a scan tool?
not that I know of ..
the scanner initiates the ABS pump and circulates the fluid

the procedure isn't hard ,but you do need 2 people
one to work the scanner and push the brake pedal
and one to crack the bleeders.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
not that I know of ..
the scanner initiates the ABS pump and circulates the fluid

the procedure isn't hard ,but you do need 2 people
one to work the scanner and push the brake pedal
and one to crack the bleeders.
Getting ahold of a scan tool is the hard part! Hate going to a dealership for this stuff, they charge $93 to change a cabin air filter (on a JGC), their price will be crazy high.
 

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i picked up a scanner when i had a soft pedal problem after replacing a seized caliper and upgrading brake lines .
my old scanner was 20 yrs old and i figured it might be a wiser choice to upgrade the scanner then to randomly throw money at more parts.

while i didn't have any ABS codes,it was nice to know that
in my case i did 2 "false"scanner bleeds learning the procedure.
this cycled the ABS pump twice before i actually did the real scanner bleed and opened bleeders.
my pedal firmed right up after the scanner bleed
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i picked up a scanner when i had a soft pedal problem after replacing a seized caliper and upgrading brake lines .
my old scanner was 20 yrs old and i figured it might be a wiser choice to upgrade the scanner then to randomly throw money at more parts.

while i didn't have any ABS codes,it was nice to know that
in my case i did 2 "false"scanner bleeds learning the procedure.
this cycled the ABS pump twice before i actually did the real scanner bleed and opened bleeders.
my pedal firmed right up after the scanner bleed
What scanner did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Maybe I missed it, but did you do anything to the front?
Large majority of breaking power comes from the front.

What brand pads are you using? What size tires are on it?
No, nothing to the front, yet. Rotors looked good, pads have life left.

Bosch pads w/AC Delco rotors, stock size tires for a Sahara.
 

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If you have no leaks and the peddle does not go all the way to the floor my guess would be air in a line somewhere. Have a shop power bleed the system. Then go from there.
 

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What scanner did you get?
i ended up with a foxwell 630
it does ABS /SRS code reading and diag as well as normal OBD code reading.

but the procedure is the same no matter what scanner you get ,as long as it covers ABS/SRS
 

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If you have no leaks and the peddle does not go all the way to the floor my guess would be air in a line somewhere. Have a shop power bleed the system. Then go from there.
that is the first an foremost thing about trouble shooting a brake problem
therefore any comments i make are under the assumption that the brakes are correctly bled
 

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No, nothing to the front, yet. Rotors looked good, pads have life left.

Bosch pads w/AC Delco rotors, stock size tires for a Sahara.
I would follow the other suggestion, make sure it is bled properly, then personally I'd only use Centric premium, or Black magic pads.
 

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Well, the 'ol Sahara didn't like that at all and the brake pedal just goes all the way to the floor now, hardly any stopping at all. Ok, next step, new fluid, bled the brakes. Not much better so replaced the rear calipers. Went through multiple iterations of brake bleeding, both back ones, front ones, ect. Standard brake bleeding (engine running), start with passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Pedal is still very mushy, and pretty much goes to the floor..
Re-check the calipers that you just installed. The visual and easy way to look at it is if the bleeder is lower than the flex hose supply line cavity. That means that you installed it wrong.. the brake is soft no matter how you bleed it - ask me why I know :(
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just want to close this out for future searches.

Calipers were orientated the right way, bleeder on top.

Replaced the MC. Vast improvement with the new MC. Then took it into a shop to do the ABS bleed. Even better. Hopefully GTG now!
 
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