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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the fix or solution for a better fit? My last soft top and upper door skins didn’t have any issues when I closed my driver door(same brand top). It rubs a bit on the rear upper corner. I’m wondering if things changed when I put my cowl seal in?



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Discussion Starter #2



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Looks to me like you need to adjust your windshield a little further back
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How exactly is that done? The roll bar supports are tight. The main issue, which I’ve dealt with and is starting to annoy me, is the rear upper corner which rubs and makes it harder to shut the door.


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The spreader bars between the roll bar and windshield frame telescope... loosen the lock bolt and collapse them 1/4"
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Had no idea!!??? Thanks! I will check it out tomorrow


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Probably a security torx... I generally just use channel locks on em
 

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It sounds like a simple fix on paper.
New seal means you will need two NFL defensive linemen or some kind of ratchet strap.
Where did you disconnect when you lowered the windshield?
 

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If you look on Bestops website and dig up install instructions they provide a measurement from the very rear of the tub to the frame lip, Its 75 1/8th inches. This will set the frame angle where it needs to be. IIRC on one of my jeeps they say to bend the upper window frame to make it fit where you want it. Also the adjustable collars can tilt the upper a bit either way to get it right.
 

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Probably dropped my windshield thirty times and a new cowl seal was the worst.
My experience is to leave the tamper-proof torx bolt on the spreader bar alone.
Instead behind the spreader, under the roll bar padding is a six inch long torx bolt. This will allow you easily 'dial-in' the windshield to factory spec.
Fact is, if you take that bolt out you don't even have to remove the sun visors.
Just two bolts on the mickey mouse dash plate and the windshield will drop with the spreaders attached. No NFL linemen required on the install.

If you did move the tamper-proof, loosen everything up and get that bolt back where it was, there should be original markings in the paint after 27 years.
 

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I've adjusted several and never had any trouble at all...
I wonder if the seal you installed was thicker or harder than it was supposed to be?

I did use a ratchet strap but not for extreme force but rather for controlled precise movement....

Those long bolts at the rear are not adjustments... they are tightened all the way down...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I’m pretty sure my old cowl seal was original and I did use a ratchet strap to pull the windshield frame close enough to get the front spreader screws started. I didn’t mess with the rear screws/bolts at all.


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Something just occurred to me.... how is the allignment on your lower doors?

If your hinges are worn or misadjusted then that would also cause this issue and adjusting the windshield would be the wrong solution....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They look good, no slop


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Discussion Starter #15
Working on the roll bar supports



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Discussion Starter #16
I’m back at it, I think I’m going to try adjusting the doors a bit, seems to be a better solution? The upper frame looks skewed and they were never an issue until I replaced the cowl seal. I did notice the latch contacts the striker a little low so a slight twist counterclockwise of the driver door is all it needs. I managed to break free a few of the hinge screws but the others aren’t budging. T-40 is the size. May end up putting Phillips heads in there, not sure. Gotta run to harbor freight and get one of those impact tools you hit with a hammer- hopefully that will break em free?


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I would not mess with the doors. You can take the uppers out of the frame and then bend the frame a little so it fits better. Much easier.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I would not mess with the doors. You can take the uppers out of the frame and then bend the frame a little so it fits better. Much easier.


Are you talking about just the 3 rods or the frame? I’m a little hesitant to bending at the welds. I may end up trying that as well before getting in too deep.


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No, just bend the frame a little forward. Put it diagonal on the floor, door front bottom down and rear top up and press a little diagonal.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, that’s exactly what it needs. I’ll give it a whirl


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