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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a new user and this is my first post. I did a search for adjustments on the factory soft top and couldn't find any matching results.

I bought a 2 year old factory premium top from a guy on craigs list and installed it last weekend. Every thing looks pretty good. I'm having an issue with the catches in the front. The whole thing seems to need shifted forward about 1/4" so that the latches catch right. The way it is now, its a real ball buster to get the latches to pop over the metal loops so you can snap them tight.

I have a feeling its simple but i dont want to mess anything up.

Thanks!!!!!!
 

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Mine is now 2 years old (JKU), and when I flip the Sunrider portion down, it sits back about 1/4" from its final, latched position. However, the latches unfold enough to hook the loops on the windshield frame (one just enough so), and it cinches down nicely, with no leaks.

If it's not been used before, it may just need to stretch a bit.
 

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Also, make sure that the latches toward the back of the front doors are snapped in. I had one side of mine come out once when I had the sunrider open, and I had a heck of time getting the front latches back into place. Once I re-clipped the side latch, the front latches were back to normal.
 

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It will stretch some as it is on as well. When I first installed mine it was almost impossible for me to get it into position by myself. After a few hot days it got much easier.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The front bar is about 1/2" back when you put the top up. The latches extend about 1/4" and its a little short. The side latches are whats holding the front cross member back.

What I am going to try tonight is to flip the top back and loosen the six screw knobs and see if I can slide those plastic side pieces forward just a little and then retighten them, that should do the trick. The top has the spring cables on the sides and its not the material thats causing the problem. Its the metal framework.

THANKS for the help!!!
 

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Hey Fuzz, welcome! I did the same thing, bought a premium 1 year old soft topand ran into the same issue...but then I noted that the clips unfold and have that extra reach you are looking for....

On a side note, something to watch, is rain. Mine leaks over the front doors; trying to figure out how to fix that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Fuzz, welcome! I did the same thing, bought a premium 1 year old soft topand ran into the same issue...but then I noted that the clips unfold and have that extra reach you are looking for....

On a side note, something to watch, is rain. Mine leaks over the front doors; trying to figure out how to fix that.
They do but not enough. Its starting out too far back from the metal bars.

Thanks!
 

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If you have hooked the rear sail panels and installed the windows and then tried to latch the front, you will never get there on a new top.

Once you get the top in place, hook the front hooks but do not activate the over center latch. Then hook the rear sail panels in the grooves. The instructions tell you to then insert the side windows, but I do the rear window first, then the side windows.

Then latch the front latches.

If it's the first time, it is best to put the top on in the bright sun on a very warm day.
 

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Was it complete including the brackets that mount it to the bar? What year is yours and what year was the top? I have a 15 JKUR and put a top on from a 2007 and I had to remove the footman loop from the windshield frame because they moved it to the left compared to a 2007. Also the 2007 windshield header is plastic and the TSB says to replace it with a later metal one. It whistles when it's dry but she hasn't complained yet.
 

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The front bar is about 1/2" back when you put the top up. The latches extend about 1/4" and its a little short. The side latches are whats holding the front cross member back.

What I am going to try tonight is to flip the top back and loosen the six screw knobs and see if I can slide those plastic side pieces forward just a little and then retighten them, that should do the trick. The top has the spring cables on the sides and its not the material thats causing the problem. Its the metal framework.

THANKS for the help!!!
From everything you've said, I would not try to adjust anything. There's really no movement on the plastic pieces as they have tabs that fit snugly in the holes on the roll bars.

If you can get the hooks to latch onto the loops, then it reaches. Even if it's a bit tough to get there. Notice that the further you open the latches, the further those hooks will reach. Once you close the latches, it'll be nice and snug as the Jeep engineers intended.

Over time it will get easier.

The fact that you got them to reach at all without releasing the two rear corners means you've got plenty of slack. I had to hook those first and then practically hang from the rear corners to get those in. By the end of the first summer mine was much easier to deal with.
 

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I have a new 2017 and I also had a heck of a time getting the soft top to latch the first time - my dealer told me to leave the soft top up for a about a week before I try and take it down again to break it in - heading to the dealer tomorrow to get my reg and sticker and going to give it an open/close while I am there - I also saw on another post where someone inverted a a quick release pipe clamp and used it against the header and speaker bar to crank it close enough to get the latches on .... will throw mine in the Jeep tomorrow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Was it complete including the brackets that mount it to the bar? What year is yours and what year was the top? I have a 15 JKUR and put a top on from a 2007 and I had to remove the footman loop from the windshield frame because they moved it to the left compared to a 2007. Also the 2007 windshield header is plastic and the TSB says to replace it with a later metal one. It whistles when it's dry but she hasn't complained yet.
Ours is a 2017 4 door Sahara and the top came from a 2014 or 2015 4 door Rubicon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
From everything you've said, I would not try to adjust anything. There's really no movement on the plastic pieces as they have tabs that fit snugly in the holes on the roll bars.

If you can get the hooks to latch onto the loops, then it reaches. Even if it's a bit tough to get there. Notice that the further you open the latches, the further those hooks will reach. Once you close the latches, it'll be nice and snug as the Jeep engineers intended.

Over time it will get easier.

The fact that you got them to reach at all without releasing the two rear corners means you've got plenty of slack. I had to hook those first and then practically hang from the rear corners to get those in. By the end of the first summer mine was much easier to deal with.
You are correct. I did have the rear corners tucked in. I'll try popping them out and see what happens. Thanks!
 

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You are correct. I did have the rear corners tucked in. I'll try popping them out and see what happens. Thanks!
It'll make it easier, but again... if they reach and hook on... then you're good to go. Closing the latches pulls it forward and snug.

I only released the rear corners when I simply couldn't get the hooks to reach.
 

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Ours is a 2017 4 door Sahara and the top came from a 2014 or 2015 4 door Rubicon.
Ok. First time I put that 2007 top on her 2015 it was a PITA to get the side windows zipped in and the belt tabs tucked in. As far as the sail panels, I pulled down on the corners to get them tucked in. Still takes quite a bit of force to get the tabs to tuck into the channel in the corner of the tub.
 
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