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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, 1st post so go easy. I know this dead horse has been beaten but I've read dozens of posts/threads and can't find my answers so hoping for some clarification from those in the know.

I'm in SoCal and will be doing most of my wheelin in the rocks. I know what I want to have regardless of the model:

  • 3-3.5" lift
  • 35's
  • Rear locker at least, maybe front
  • 4 door
  • Auto tranny
  • 5.13 gearing or there abouts
  • Sway discos, manual or electric
Have a few specific questions. From what I've read, I'll need/want D44 up front. For the Sport, looking at costs of a new axle and then adding the features-locker and disconnects-seems to add up just shy of $5K for parts and labor. That's close to the price differential between the two models right there and would have me leaning to the Rubi. I don't mind wrenching here and there but don't have the time I used to so if it was put together for me for close to the same cost then I'll take it. Am I off on those #'s?

The second thing that would push it over to the Rubi for me is, what's the value of the 4:1 transfer case of the Rubi? If I'm regearing regardless of model, does that t-case even factor in? Cuz if it does then I understand it's big bucks and would make my decision for the Rubi pretty cut and dry. I don't understand gearing in the t-case too well so forgive the ignorance but if it makes a significant difference even after a re-gear then I'm ready to order the Rubi.

And for the record, I'm not really factoring in resale value as I intend on keeping this and passing it down to the youngin.


Thanks in advance for indulging me on this. I'm selling my Toyota and looking forward to being a Jeeper.
Tony
 

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Get the Rubi, get 4.10's, and pass on a re-gear (save cash)....especially with 35's and with the 4:1 transfer case.
 

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You're going to want a Rubicon.

I think this is the first Rubicon vs. Sport thread where the fella actually needs a Rubicon. And will actually use the Rubicon.
 

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The Rubi is made for wheelin' rocks. In your case I would say go with the Rubi and be done with it.

The 4:1 transfer case gives new definition to the phrase "granny gear". It's made to rock crawl. You won't be re-gearing if you swap the front axle, so the only way to get the 4:1 is with a new transfer case.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So am I understanding this right that with that 4:1 t-case, I could do without the regearing and have a crawl ready rig? Cuz when I look at the gear charts for an auto 3.6L the 4:10 gearing is on the low end of the "Acceptable" green range when running 35's. Shoot, if I don't have to re-gear then case closed!

And rfortune, I'm not following this: "You won't be re-gearing if you swap the front axle, so the only way to get the 4:1 is with a new transfer case." With the Sport, I'd be upgrading to the D44 in the front then need to re-gear the rear to match? I'm sure just my ignorance on this but could you clarify a bit?

Thanks for the quick responses guys. This is confirming my inclination to the Rubi
 

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With 35s the 4.10 would bd near perfect. If you were going to run 37s or bigger than I'd certainly say 4.88 or higher. Save your money.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With 35s the 4.10 would bd near perfect. If you were going to run 37s or bigger than I'd certainly say 4.88 or higher. Save your money.
I had thought the auto tranny would need 5.13 or lower w/ 35's to maintain good crawlability but if the t-case makes up that much difference then hell, the Rubi will net out cheaper for me.

Unless there's any opinions to the contrary?
Thanks again all
 

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Gjersey84 said:
With 35s the 4.10 would bd near perfect. If you were going to run 37s or bigger than I'd certainly say 4.88 or higher. Save your money.
I don't buy it. Sure it might be a good setup for blasting down a dirt road, but not idea for crawling. When playing in the rocks you need torque at low rev, most of the time right at idle. The lower you are geared the better off your transmission and motor will hold up to.

Sure it will work. But it is far from idea if you plan on getting it in a bind on the rocks.
 

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I had thought the auto tranny would need 5.13 or lower w/ 35's to maintain good crawlability but if the t-case makes up that much difference then hell, the Rubi will net out cheaper for me.

Unless there's any opinions to the contrary?
Thanks again all
The auto tranny gearing (and engine) were completely redone in 2012. 5.13 were needed on the old 42RLE for 35's. But with the gearing of the NAG1, 4.10's will be fine.

And yes, the 4:1 transfer case will allow you go crawl over rocks. The Sport only has a 2.72:1 transfer case.

For your needs, a Rubi is perfect. 35's, lift, armor, and you are good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the input guys. I realize "acceptable" is a subjective thing and I guess I won't really know if the stock 4.10 gearing along with the 4:1 t-case will turn the 35's to my liking til I get it out there.

I was hoping to get enough of a confirmation that it would otherwise beefing up the Sport might be better financially. Based on the input here-which I value-and some other research, I'm feeling pretty comfortable the Rubi will be an overall more economical option for what I want.

It'd be nice to hear from someone who went with this set up and is using it in similar terrain....if you're out there.

Thanks again all!
 

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Pantermark is spot on. ALSO one last thing to consider with the Tcase and gears/axels on the Rubi. All one warranty.

Sure you'll get some guarantee's from the add-ons to the Sport...but the hassle level might go up a quotant getting everything fixed at once should there be an issue.
 

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Thanks for all the input guys. I realize "acceptable" is a subjective thing and I guess I won't really know if the stock 4.10 gearing along with the 4:1 t-case will turn the 35's to my liking til I get it out there.

I was hoping to get enough of a confirmation that it would otherwise beefing up the Sport might be better financially. Based on the input here-which I value-and some other research, I'm feeling pretty comfortable the Rubi will be an overall more economical option for what I want.

It'd be nice to hear from someone who went with this set up and is using it in similar terrain....if you're out there.

Thanks again all!
Here is a pretty good article on the comparison. 2012 Jeep Wrangler: Rubicon or Sport?

They say go Sport....but the 4.10's, lockers, and transfer case are hard to pass up out the box.

I guess you will be OK either way...but I think it would be easiest to get the Rubi and and have nearly everything you need when you pull off the dealer lot.

Just remember to sleeve and gusset.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is a pretty good article on the comparison. 2012 Jeep Wrangler: Rubicon or Sport?

They say go Sport....but the 4.10's, lockers, and transfer case are hard to pass up out the box.

I guess you will be OK either way...but I think it would be easiest to get the Rubi and and have nearly everything you need when you pull off the dealer lot.

Just remember to sleeve and gusset.
Yeah I'm not seeing how the Sport would save me any $ in my scenario.

I guess I have to read up on the sleeving now-I've seen some pics of the gussets that many are using upfront but wasn't aware of anything needing to be sleeved.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pantermark is spot on. ALSO one last thing to consider with the Tcase and gears/axels on the Rubi. All one warranty.

Sure you'll get some guarantee's from the add-ons to the Sport...but the hassle level might go up a quotant getting everything fixed at once should there be an issue.
Agreed, definite value to that
 

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Yeah I'm not seeing how the Sport would save me any $ in my scenario.

I guess I have to read up on the sleeving now-I've seen some pics of the gussets that many are using upfront but wasn't aware of anything needing to be sleeved.
FWIW: I have the Rubi transfer case and 4.10 gears with 37's and do just fine. I WILL be re-gearing to 5.38's sometime this winter, but that is just me, cause mine is primarily a off-road rig. Any more than a few miles from home, and my JEEP gets to ride on a trailer. You'll be fantastic with the Rubi and 35's.:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
FWIW: I have the Rubi transfer case and 4.10 gears with 37's and do just fine. I WILL be re-gearing to 5.38's sometime this winter, but that is just me, cause mine is primarily a off-road rig. Any more than a few miles from home, and my JEEP gets to ride on a trailer. You'll be fantastic with the Rubi and 35's.:thumb:
It's worth a lot, thanks Don. This is what I was hoping for-some validation from someone that has applied what we're talking about here and know that it's functiaonal. With the slightly smaller tire, sounds like I should run okay.
 

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Go for the Rubi! Starting out with D44's front and rear is nice. Factory Lockers are very nice! Not dealing with manual disconnects is also nice. The transfer case is a huge bonus!

I look at it like this, the rubicon stock components will hold up better until you are overcome with the bug and start swapping for bigger and better.

Sleeves and gussets are worth every penny. Cheap reinforcement that will pay for itself more times then you will ever know!
 

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I'm new to jeeps entirely. It's actually really cool to read stuff like this from guys who know wtf they are talking about. I've learned tons by questions like these. Congrats on your future purchase either way you go. I went sport on my jk and will be going pretty mild compaired to you. Where in SoCal u located?
 

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I have a 2012 JKUR Auto. I was given 3.73 by mistake and they had to regear it to 4.10s. I am stock with the 32" tires. I did not like the low end with the 3.73. I think 4.10s and the 32s are perfect. I have been on 4-5 level trails in the stock form and love it. Even took it on an easy section of the Rubicon. I plan on a 2.5" lift in a year and maybe 33s when my 32s need replacing. Gota have that engine trany skid too on the autos! These things should have much more under body clearance off the self. And I am not happy with the trans cooler line placement. It is an accident waiting to happen on the trail.
 
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