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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone find the specs on the alpine system. Not talking about the stupid sales stuff... I want wattages, ohm loads.. that type of stuff.


I know the sub is an 8 (hehe you can tell by opening the back door) and have read it is a .3 cubic feet..

I saw a build on the DIYmobileAudio forum where the guy used 6.5s in the front and 1 inch tweets in the "shrek ears" on the dash.

Pretty sure those are 6.5s in the overhead bar, though due to their placement I will probably turn them off and add some others back and lower in the cargo area.
 

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All I know for sure is that the sub is 2 ohms.

I'm fairly sure the tweeters are powered by the HU.

I know this will get lost....but THIS is the sickest thing I've ever seen.

How to: Fit a 10" sub in the factory 8" enclosure

A write-up on how to take your stock 8" enclosure, and turn it into a 10" enclosure. I would be too scared to try it....but what he did looked AWESOME.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is sweet, I had thought of doing something like that. I would use my existing 12, which I love.. .or just do some minor mods and pop in an 8.
 

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subscribed. I'm dying to know the fix for the 2013 Alpine Premium system while maintaining the factory HU. I've read so many threads my head is spinning. I'm currently contemplating picking up the 6.5" Kicker upgrades for a start and see if anyone figures out the way to correct the amp issue with the sub and soundbar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I too have read a bunch of threads on this subject and am quite bemused.

Correcting the output from the amp/head unit is easier than it ever has been. How good of a result you get depends on how much you spend. If you go cheap like the Re-q (about 50 bucks) you get a decent output but you dont have the EQ abilities of all the more expensive methods. If you spend $500 you can get a JBL ms-8 that will do it all for you. The new Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 looks good too.
 

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I too have read a bunch of threads on this subject and am quite bemused.

Correcting the output from the amp/head unit is easier than it ever has been. How good of a result you get depends on how much you spend. If you go cheap like the Re-q (about 50 bucks) you get a decent output but you dont have the EQ abilities of all the more expensive methods. If you spend $500 you can get a JBL ms-8 that will do it all for you. The new Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 looks good too.
Well I'm anxiously following this hoping one of you guys figure it out. I don't mind spending a few bucks to make this thing sound good, but half the threads I've read sounds like the only improvement was the sub and I'm looking for a complete package without having to give up my overpriced HU. Factory speakers are usually a automatic cause of the quality of the speakers. I can't honestly believe Alpine let Chrysler put they're name on this crap, but I noticed the other day when I was in Walmart that they are now selling Kicker. Seems all the once high end stuff is now becoming the old Kraco/Sparkandstatic
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just trading out the speakers will help some.. but what a lot of people need to understand is you need to match the power output from the amp (aftermarket or oem) with the power rating of the speaker. Well match is not correct but they have to be in the same ball park.

Take the sub for instance... the amp is giving it some amout of power (maybe 100 watts, this is a guess) if you put a replacement sub that is designed for 1000 watts it will sound like butt.

The kicker replacement speakers have been chosen by kicker for the correct power handeling.

The real gain is to get rid of the OEM amp and use aftermarket amps. You need an oem integration processor like what I listed above. It will convert the speaker feeds back into an RCA feed, then re-equalize the sound, then pass that to your new amps. It is the re-eqing that is important as reports are that the factory amp is kinda poorly eqed.

Go to your local car audio store, they will really open your eyes on what is possible.. and they will really open your wallet too.. but that is the way of car audio.
 

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I walked into my local Best Buy Mobile Headquarters thinking I needed to upgrade all my Alpine speakers. I had three installers tell me all I need to do is replace the factory HU. I only have the single din radio. No navigation or touch screen on mine. They all recommended this Kenwood head unit. Kenwood CD Builtin Bluetooth Builtin HD Radio Apple iPodReady InDash Receiver KDC-BT958HD - Best Buy One guy upgraded his system to this. Another one was buying one at the end of the week and the last guy was saving his pennies for one. So I will start there. IT has a built in EQ and its own power of 50 watts X 4. I think I will start there. Maybe I can tweak the sound of the speakers to my liking. Then, if its still not enough I will ad this subwoofer. Infinity Basslink 200Watt Powered 10" Subwoofer BASSLINK - Best Buy Another installer had this in his car and it was just enough for him.
 

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I have done some tinkering with the factory upgrade systems and worked on some value based upgrades while still looking for significant improvements.

One thing that is often overlooked is that the 6.5's and the sub are all 2 ohm drivers and if you replace any of them with a 4 ohm driver, you are cutting the amplifier output in half. Also, if you stay with the 2 ohm coax and increase the efficiency by 3db, you get the same effect as doubling the size of the amplifier.

That said, I have been recommending the Infinity 6032si for the sound bar and front dash as they are 2 ohms, have an efficiency of [email protected] and come with a mounting ring that simplifies the install somewhat. I do not have a way to measure the efficiency of the factory drivers, but I'm comfortable making the claim that we pick up at least 3db.

I have also come up with a great mod for the factory tweeters that has had amazing results. STOCK TWEETER MOD. The factory tweeters aren't bad, they're just crossed over wrong.

Check out the link if you are interested. I also just started a discussion on upgrading the sub at the end of the thread.

If you want to boom or blast with the top off, you probably won't get the results you are after with my value upgrades. But if you want your system to sound good and play notably louder during your commute, it works. :beerdrinking:
 
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I have done some tinkering with the factory upgrade systems and worked on some value based upgrades while still looking for significant improvements.

One thing that is often overlooked is that the 6.5's and the sub are all 2 ohm drivers and if you replace any of them with a 4 ohm driver, you are cutting the amplifier output in half. Also, if you stay with the 2 ohm coax and increase the efficiency by 3db, you get the same effect as doubling the size of the amplifier.

That said, I have been recommending the Infinity 6032si for the sound bar and front dash as they are 2 ohms, have an efficiency of [email protected] and come with a mounting ring that simplifies the install somewhat. I do not have a way to measure the efficiency of the factory drivers, but I'm comfortable making the claim that we pick up at least 3db.

I have also come up with a great mod for the factory tweeters that has had amazing results. STOCK TWEETER MOD. The factory tweeters aren't bad, they're just crossed over wrong.

Check out the link if you are interested. I also just started a discussion on upgrading the sub at the end of the thread.

If you want to boom or blast with the top off, you probably won't get the results you are after with my value upgrades. But if you want your system to sound good and play notably louder during your commute, it works. :beerdrinking:
Just to clarify, infinity rates their speakers at 2.83v @1m and NOT 1w @ 1m. Those speakers are actually about 90db @ 1w1m, while still decent, is obviously not the same. Gets to be pretty confusing especially when certain vendors just say 93db for the sensitivity and omit the voltage.
 

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Just to mention, for 2014, the Alpine amp is 8 channels with 368W total (46w/ch), and two channels going to the dual-voice-coil subwoofer.

For 2015, the Alpine amp is 12 channels with 552W total (same 46w/ch), and four channels going to the quad-voice-coil subwoofer.
 

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Just to clarify, infinity rates their speakers at 2.83v @1m and NOT 1w @ 1m. Those speakers are actually about 90db @ 1w1m, while still decent, is obviously not the same. Gets to be pretty confusing especially when certain vendors just say 93db for the sensitivity and omit the voltage.
I agree, and the other 2 ohm coax that I was comparing to is also rated at 2.83v which has definitely become more common these days.

([email protected]) 92dB is the JBL GTO628 rating. Although you are unlikely to hear the 1db difference, I took that advantage along with the included mounting ring to make my purchase and now recommendation. On paper just to get an equal output to the Infinity's, a 4 ohm coax would have to be at 96db @2.83v.
 
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