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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few weeks ago I developed a speed dependent wobble. I just solved the DW thank god. It could have been there while I was still dealing with the DW and possibly inducing it.

So I assumed it was just a tire balance issue, no biggie because I just got brand new 15x8 Pro Comp Steelies and 35x12.50x15 General Grabber AT2s today! Well what do you know, wobble is still there. Only between 50-57 mph.

Any suggestions?
 

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I'm sorry to hear about the consistent problem but it sounds like you do have a case of DW, although it may be mild. The fact that it occurs in a specific range is not surprising. That speed seems to cause the resonant vibration in the suspension and steering when one or more of the joint are faulty.

It sounds like you've had the problem for a while. Have you tried Planman's systematic approach to finding the faulty joint? If not I highly recommend it. If you have, then do it again but looking more closely to the looseness in each joint. His method works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm sorry to hear about the consistent problem but it sounds like you do have a case of DW, although it may be mild. The fact that it occurs in a specific range is not surprising. That speed seems to cause the resonant vibration in the suspension and steering when one or more of the joint are faulty.

It sounds like you've had the problem for a while. Have you tried Planman's systematic approach to finding the faulty joint? If not I highly recommend it. If you have, then do it again but looking more closely to the looseness in each joint. His method works.
I have many times. But trust me when I say the DW IS GONE, I've gone to all the normal places where the jeep was susceptible and slammed it fast hard, at any angle.trying to provoke wobble.

I just took a 400 mile round trip in the jeep last weekend. No DW, but a slight shimmy at that target speed, once you hit 60 and on everything is good.

Maybe it's the toe, I'll try some adjustments. Just looking for some possible insight. I'm actually in the garage right now going through planmans write up just to be sure like you said, but after 4 months of this I could practically recite the thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All joints have been checked. Alignment is in spec, brand new tires.
I'm thinking of going back to the tire shop considering I have free balancing for the life of the tires and giving them hell about it.

I'm just stumped due to the fact that this happened BEFORE and AFTER the new tires and wheels. Which leads me to believe that it isn't just a balancing issue. I do not know where to turn at this point.

It is a very mild vibration and wobble compared to the DW I endured for months.
Is there any possibility that when I had my axle trussed that it bent and this is causing it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes I have, to the best of my knowledge.
I have run a screwdriver through to feel for cracks, checked bolt holes, applied proper torque once the vehicle is on the ground

Anything else I should be looking for?
 

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The Bad Guy
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99% of the time, if it's speed related the tires are the issue. Make sure you get them road force balanced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yep ^ Steal wheels are horrible IMO. Road force them

OP ... I know I asked you about your axle bushings. Did you ever read my thread ?
(This is not your problem but worth a mention)
FYI I have vibes 50-60 range. I know it's my tires. Since shops around here don't give a s**t. I live with it :(

Ohh... Did you ever replace/check your rear axle flanges ?
The steelie's were all I could afford to be honest. I'd love to have some AEV's but that's just not in the budget.

What is road forcing a wheel?

I did take a look at those currie bushings and one day will most likely end up doing the same exact upgrade.

And what are you referring to when you say the rear axle flanges??
 

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Road forcing is a style balancing where load simulating the road is placed on the tire. Typically cost more but sometimes -what it takes to balance bigger/aggressive tires. A hunter road force machine or Coats (spelling) also measures the highs/lows of the tire., and any runout the wheel may have. It's the techs responsibility to do what it takes to balance them or deem out or round/bent. A good tech will break the bead and match the highs and lows. Be careful, road forcing typically cost more and only done if the combo can't be balanced dynamically. I've been charged for a road force on all 5 tires then noticed a lot of weight on 2 tires. Later determined one wheel and tire to be out of round

Since the rears don't have u-joints. There's a flat flange where the hub and tire mount. With the factory the flanges are pretty week. A bent flange will sometimes pulse the brakes and squeak or wear them done. Sever enough cause a wobbly rear end. Not all aftermarket axles warranty bent flanges. I know "Ten factory" does. Some venders will source the bearings, abs tone rings and press them in. For around $450 they come ready to bolt in. Then you can hold on to or sell your stocks for trail spares.

Here's a decent pic of the currie bushings.
 

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I know "Ten factory" does. Some venders will source the bearings, abs tone rings and press them in. For around $450 they come ready to bolt in. Then you can hold on to or sell your stocks for trail spares.
quick thread hijack, are you saying ten factory rear shafts come complete? Been looking at new ones and trying to find a complete set with the tone rings and all
 

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