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Discussion Starter #1
I am at my wits end trying to get this corrected. I have posted about it a few times and try and never seem to 100% fix it. I have learned to live with it, but I am on the verge of giving in and trading the JK in.

I have the wobble in the steering wheel when going 52-56MPH. I have already been to 2 different tire shops and have done road force each time, and have had different employees each time balance the tires. I rotate and balance the tires at 5k when I do my oil change. I have went as far as buying new rims/tires just yesterday and still wobble!! :(

My Jeep is a 2016 JKU Rubi with 50k

I have the following done to the front end:
  • Teraflex HD ball joints upper/lower (1 year old now)
  • Steersmart HD tie rod (8 months old)
  • Steersmart Draglink with XD Attenuator (8 months old)
  • Steersmart Trackbar (3 months old)
  • Synergy steering brace bracket (1 year old now)
  • New bolts/washers (Nothing ovaled out)
  • No steering stabilizer (Not a fan of how they feel)
  • RCV axles (8 months old, but they do crack on full lock on 1 side :(
  • MC 2.5 inch lift with upper/lower adjustable control arms (lift gave me 3.75" of lift)
  • Power stop brakes (1 year old now)
  • Mickey Thompson ATZ 315's (5k miles on them)
  • Mammoth Boulder 17x9 hub centric rims (Installed yesterday, no wheel spacers)
I have all bolts marked with paint and nothing has moved since everything has been installed. I have went through all bolts and made sure they were torqued and all are. I have messed around with tire pressure via chalk test. I have driven many miles in the wobble zone and it never gets worse or stops. Jeep will track straight down the road even while doing wobble, wobble.

I just don't know what else could cause the wobble. I can go 85MPH down the highway with 1 finger, but if I go between 52-56 wobble wobble wobble. Some days I feel like its worse than other days. My guess is it depends on the roads that I am when traveling. I "think" I have bump steer, but never seen bump steer first hand so not sure. Tried looking on youtube but no one has a video of what it actually looks like from driver seat.

I thought of getting a draglink flip kit from Steersmarts, but when I had only a 2" life I had the same wobble, so doubt the flip kit would do much.

I am going back under the Jeep this weekend and going to have my better half turn the wheels back and forth while I touch all the joints again to see if I can pin-point anything. I have don't this many times and never find anything, but since we have nothing but time on our hands figure will give it another shot. I have watch Planmans video's on youtube in the past, but going to go over them again.

If I can't figure it out soon its getting traded in. With all the deals going on right now I am sure I could scoop up a new 2020 JL or even a Gladiator. I just want to enjoy the Jeep and not worry about when I get close to 50mph that I am going to get the wobble for a bit.

Thanks,

Ken~
 

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How is your alignment? Seems tires have been eliminated based on balancing and now a new set. So what else rotates that may get a rythmic wobble...Brakes? Any way you have a warped or maybe even an unbalanced rotor? Driveshafts balanced? could pull the front and see if that fixes anything could even pull the rear and run it in 4hi to test it.

I assume the wobble is felt in the steering wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here is my recent alignment numbers. I also tried Rancho Geo brackets which put my at 5 degrees caster, but had more vibrations on the highway, so went back to adjustable arms. Of course had to do another alignment after putting arms back on, which is my most recent alignment.

I only get vibrations in the steering wheel not in the seat or pedals. Which is why I don't think it could be driveshaft related. Also the driveshaft is the one that comes with Mopar 2" lift. That was the lift I had before, then recently switch to MC lift.

"IF" I were to remove the front driveshaft is there anything special that needs to be done to remove/put back on?

Ken~
 

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Strange.
Speed related wobble is usually wheel/tire related.
Throw a cheap stock style steering stabilizer on and see if it changes anything
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't even have a stabilizer on there. I just don't like the way they feel. I have not had one on since I had first Mopar lift at 10k miles. I tried the Falcon one before, but thought it was over priced for what I felt, so I returned it.
 

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I would do one thing at a time, could be the drive shaft, remove and try. You might need a steering stabilizer, I'm one of those that believe you should run one. If you are near lower NY, my oem stabilizer is on a shelf if you want to try it. Good luck.
 

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The front driveshaft is attached to the front axle so of course if the front driveshaft is out of balance it will cause the front housing/steering wheel to shake.
Speed related is definitely rotating mass, so since You have addressed everything else driveshaft appears to to all that’s left. And that could also be the pinion angle.


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I had the same problem. It was not tires or death wobble. Put on a fox 2.0 stabilizer and it was gone. Might be masking some other problems but I couldn’t find anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I was able to get under the car this past weekend and have someone turn the wheel for me. I checked everything and the only spot I could feel/see was at the draglink knuckle and pitman arm. Here is a small video you can see of it slightly moving up and down when turning: New video by Ken Musk

Now I had this issue before I replaced the Draglink/Tierod with Yeti Steersmarts stuff, so I don't believe that is my issue. Also the Draglink is torqued down to specs. I also remember when I was installing it last year, that I made sure it was seated all the way up before I tightened it as someone mentioned to do that.

At this point I guess it has to be the drive shaft as that is the only thing I have never pulled before. However I was under the impression that a drive shaft would shake more of the Jeep like in the Seat or pedals, not the steering wheel. Since it is an aftermarket Mopar drive shaft how hard are these to remove for the test? Do I need any special tools when removing or putting back on? Anyone have any good directions? It's worth a shot at this point, but also don't want to cause more damage than harm while removing/installing.

Also does anyone think it would be beneficial to do the Draglink flip kit? I am at 3.75" with the MC lift on there. I know I can get the kit from Steersmarts to flip the Draglink and raise the Trackbar up via the bracket. If I do get the Draglink flip kit do I also have to get another alignment after?

Thanks,

Ken~
 

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I had a slight instability on mine at certain speeds after putting my lift on that went away when I added the geometry correction brackets. I see you have adjustable control arms but the brackets actually lower the connection points.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have tested this current lift with Rancho Geo Brackets and it put my Caster at 5* It never got rid of the steering wheel wobble, and it made vibrations that I could feel in the cab around 70MPH. I ended up taking them off and went back to the adjustable control arms.

Ken~
 

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So I was able to get under the car this past weekend and have someone turn the wheel for me. I checked everything and the only spot I could feel/see was at the draglink knuckle and pitman arm. Here is a small video you can see of it slightly moving up and down when turning: New video by Ken Musk

Now I had this issue before I replaced the Draglink/Tierod with Yeti Steersmarts stuff, so I don't believe that is my issue. Also the Draglink is torqued down to specs. I also remember when I was installing it last year, that I made sure it was seated all the way up before I tightened it as someone mentioned to do that.

At this point I guess it has to be the drive shaft as that is the only thing I have never pulled before. However I was under the impression that a drive shaft would shake more of the Jeep like in the Seat or pedals, not the steering wheel. Since it is an aftermarket Mopar drive shaft how hard are these to remove for the test? Do I need any special tools when removing or putting back on? Anyone have any good directions? It's worth a shot at this point, but also don't want to cause more damage than harm while removing/installing.

Also does anyone think it would be beneficial to do the Draglink flip kit? I am at 3.75" with the MC lift on there. I know I can get the kit from Steersmarts to flip the Draglink and raise the Trackbar up via the bracket. If I do get the Draglink flip kit do I also have to get another alignment after?

Thanks,

Ken~

I dont think that type of movement is normal. What draglink was on before the Yeti? Are you the original owner? Possible your pitman arm was drilled for a larger drag link end, like the 1 ton ends on some drag links?

As to the driveshaft, it is very easy to remove, and the Mopar lift front shaft is even easier than the stock drive shaft. No special tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am the original owner, bought it brand new in 2016. The Draglink before was MetalCloak (MC). Before that was the factory one. When I did the Mopar lift is when I upgraded the Draglink to MC. I had a shop install the lift as I was not feeling well at the time I wanted it installed so just paid to have it done. The Draglink/Tie Rod I installed afterwords.

I have been searching online on how to remove the front drive shaft, but all show the stock one of course. However it looks like its just 4 bolts on each side need to be removed..... I don't have to remove the yoke part correct? Not even sure if that is correct. I guess I really need to get under there and look.

I am trying to think back to when this first started happening, and I feel like it happened shortly after the Mopar lift was installed, which was at 15k miles or so. Maybe it really could be the front drive shaft and just needs to be re-balanced.

Ken~
 

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Just remove the four bolts on each end. Pull the driveshaft out. The u-joints and yokes will stay with the shaft, and leave the flange/yoke part on the transfer case, and differential. They do not get removed
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I was finally able to get under the Jeep and the front drive shaft is not just 4 bolts on each side. On the axle side yes there are 4 bolts and easy to get to. On the transfer case side there are no bolts...

Didn't just want to start taking things apart since I have never taken a drive shaft out before, and don't want to break more things than I fix.

Pics attached of the 2 ends.
4419427


4419429
 

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Bolts look to be here.
4419430
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I thought those might be it, but was afraid to start taking them off in fear things would just fall out.... Nothing is going to come apart except the entire drive shaft will be able to come out, correct? Will look at taking them off this weekend then. I know I can put the transfer case in neutral to twist the drive shaft to get to all the bolts.

Thanks for the help so far :)
 

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I thought those might be it, but was afraid to start taking them off in fear things would just fall out.... Nothing is going to come apart except the entire drive shaft will be able to come out, correct? Will look at taking them off this weekend then. I know I can put the transfer case in neutral to twist the drive shaft to get to all the bolts.

Thanks for the help so far :)
Yes, it will separate at that gap just in front of the bolts.
Hang on to the caps as they will try to fall off as you pull the joint out of the transfer case yoke.
 
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