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Just make sure you don’t separate the two pieces of the drive shaft. It’s a balanced set up, so if you separate them and don’t put them back together the same way, you could have vibrations.
 

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I thought those might be it, but was afraid to start taking them off in fear things would just fall out.... Nothing is going to come apart except the entire drive shaft will be able to come out, correct? Will look at taking them off this weekend then. I know I can put the transfer case in neutral to twist the drive shaft to get to all the bolts.

Thanks for the help so far :)
As mentioned, keep an eye on the u-joint caps, but otherwise you will be fine. You'll have to physically roll the vehicle or jack up the front tires if you want to rotate the shaft for easier access but 2wd will still allow the front shaft to turn as long as the front wheels are off the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well I tried for over an hour to get the bolts off. Even removed my skid plates to get better access to the transfer case bolts. I feel like the bolts are red locktight on there. I tried using a breaker bar on the axle side front drive shaft bolts, and nada for those as well. So I cleaned things up since the skid plates were off and put things back. Not worth me at the moment to break something that I can't fix.
At this point I am just over it, and will just continue to deal with the wheel wobble. If I get a nice enough deal I will just slide into a new JL and move on.

Thanks all for the help, but until I can have someone help me I am not going to re-attempt to take the drive shaft off.

Ken~
 

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Well I tried for over an hour to get the bolts off. Even removed my skid plates to get better access to the transfer case bolts. I feel like the bolts are red locktight on there. I tried using a breaker bar on the axle side front drive shaft bolts, and nada for those as well. So I cleaned things up since the skid plates were off and put things back. Not worth me at the moment to break something that I can't fix.
At this point I am just over it, and will just continue to deal with the wheel wobble. If I get a nice enough deal I will just slide into a new JL and move on.

Thanks all for the help, but until I can have someone help me I am not going to re-attempt to take the drive shaft off.

Ken~
Well damn I'm sorry Ken. I am surprised that things are so tight, if you were closer I would absolutely give you a hand. Try soaking the bolts in PB Blaster once a day for a few days if you want to try and give it a shot again.
 

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I will pretty much guarantee that if you put on a steering stabilizer it will go away. Whether that bothers you that you needed a stabilizer to mask it is another thing. But I went through the same thing and never found anything. I chalked it up to combination of alignment, tire weight and suspension configuration. But happy it is gone now and probably when I get my next set of tires it will be gone. I certainly would not trade in on a jl because of it.
 

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I was having irritating vibration at a slightly higher speed. (~the 65mph mark) I finally tracked it down to a stuffed right side axle universal joint. Dried out & loose bearings. Found it by jacking the wheel up, then reaching in & putting my hand around it, then rotating the wheel a few degrees each way to feel for movement between the ears. Replaced both sides & vibration is almost completely gone. (I haven't had the wheels balanced in a long time, though.)
 

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Just installed 35’s a month ago. Due to the virus stuff , just now got it on the freeway for a 50 mi round trip. I noticed a slight vibration at about 65 to 75. Not sure if it’s the crappy roads or maybe a balance issue.

I am gonna take it to a different shop and get the balance checked out before I move forward with other mods. Lugs,spacers. TB, and ball joint are tight.

One thing learned from 30+ years of wrenching on Harleys, don’t make too many changes at once.

35” MTR’s on stock wheels. Noticed there’s enough weights on them to sink a small ship. Since the tech put all the tires on backwards and had to re-mount them after I kindly pointed it out to him, I think it’s a good idea to have another shop check his work.
 

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Awhile back I had a truck in my shop that I did a brake job on. After the brake job it had a shimmy much like you are describing here. We balanced tires, rotated, went over everything I did 10 times. He swore there were no issues before the brake job so I took his word and stayed on it. Eventually, just for kicks I put the original parts back on (pads and rotors) and took it for a ride. Gone!!! When I get back to the shop I took a real good look at the rotors and one of the rotors was machined incorrectly. The hub surfaces were not parallel to each other so it caused the rim to wobble as you rotated the wheel. It wasn’t real bad looking but obviously nearing highway speeds with the weight of the tire and rim it was clearly enough to cause a problem. Maybe this is related to your issue. Seems you have a pretty solidly built front end!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So I checked the air pressure yesterday when I got home and it was set to 44PSI :( I re-adjusted back down to 32PSI as the tires were still warmed. Drove today, and the wobble is now really only noticeable at 52MPH and stops around 55MPH and not near as bad. However, I also noticed if I rode on a smoother road the wobble was nearly gone. Once I drove on a little rougher road it will start to come back. This makes me feel like it has nothing to do with the driveshaft and more to do with something up front loose. Almost like it wants to start death wobble, but doesn't because everything I have up front is nice and tight.

Still wondering if a Drag link flip would help any since I have 3.75" of lift. I do get what I think is bump steer, but mainly when going over rail road tracks. The wheel will jerk back and forth, but always rides straight.

I have torqued all the bolts in the past up front and marked them with paint. For giggles this weekend will check them all again. The only thing I know via the video I made is the drag link will pop-up and down some. Not sure if that is enough to cause my issue since the wobble was there when I had MC drag link up front before I switched it all over the Steer Smarts last year. Maybe the pitman arm itself is bad....?

Hope everyone is staying safe.

Ken~
 

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Definitely sounds to me like a tyre related issue. The other thing it could be is the tyres being out of round.
I had vibration at around that speed that turned out, (when I was getting them balanced yet again), to be caused by irregular tyres. The guy doing the balance called me over as he was running one of them & pointed it out. You could clearly see, then, the 1/8"-1/4" bump as it was spinning on the balancer.

Given that it has become better by dropping the pressure, that would be consistent with an irregular tyre.

To check all the joints, get under the car with someone inside. (Engine off.) Grab each joint & wrap your hand around both sides and have the person inside wiggle the steering wheel. If the joint is wearing/loose, you will feel the movement between the 2 parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I thought at one point is was the tires and bought a completely new set, and same issue. I have 5k on the new set and just had them road force balanced when I bought brand new rims. I then went and bought new rims that are hub centric and not lug centric. Still same results with the wobble.

Unless my mind is playing tricks on me, I swear some days I never notice it and then the next day its there and annoying. I feel like maybe I do have small death wobble coming on, but since everything up front is tight/new-ish that is stops it from ever going into full on death wobble. The Jeep will track straight when the wheel wobbles, just annoying is all. I have learned to live it for nearly 35k miles, but finally the better half drove it and thought the Jeep was broke.

Possible that its the wheel bearings? I have never replaced those, but honestly not sure how to tell if they are warn or not.

Ken~
 

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There are videos and descriptions online re how to check wheel bearings. They do go bad and get loose, so it’s possible.

Also, didn’t you say you don’t have a steering stabilizer? If so, I try putting an OE style stabilizer on. Not one of the gas charged models.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I plan to put back on the one I have from Steer Smart this weekend. Its just like the factory stabilizer, but will get mounted up higher is all. I do have a Fox stabilizer, but its a gas one and made it very hard to turn when I had it installed. I think I kept it on for 1 week and had to remove it.

Ken~
 

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If you still have your factory drag link in good condition, I'd try that too.

Doing one change at a time will help you narrow the potential causes and solutions.
 

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Last summer I trashed my stock stabilizer, so I took it off. I’ve heard many times on here that one is not needed, if steering is in great shape.
My front end components are tight and in good condition, but I felt a big difference in a negative way. When hitting bumps it felt like how I would imagine death wobble starting. I replaced it and I feels back to the way it was.
 

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Stop throwing money at it.

1. Pull the driveshaft - drive it.

2. Rotate tires front to back...drive it.

3. Put the thing on jack stands and run it on gear while in 4WD. Get out and look at the wheels & tires...look for wobble & runout.

4. Pull the tires while on jack stands. Use the lug nuts to hold down rotors. Put it in 4wd and Look for run-out - look at the brake pads and see if they move back and forth. Do the same for vertical movement.

Don't trust new parts to be correct - my FactoryTen rear chromolly axles had 50thou of horizontal run-out on hub face and 30thou of vertical shaft run out.

5. Check unit bearings - pull the rotors and run while in gear - look for run out. I'm on my 3rd set. Symptom: speed related vibration, intermittent noise/slop.

6. Make sure your front u-joints aren't trashed.

7. Make sure your front differential is working as expected. My spider gears were trashed and took out the front locker too. It hosed the front u-joints along the way. Resulted in a full front axle rebuild under wty. Symptom: wobble in steering wheel.

sent via cone of silence
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I put on the Steer Smarts Stabilizer on over the weekend. The wobble is much better, and not as annoying now, but still there slightly. At this point I am calling it good as I don't have patience anymore to keep messing with it. Working on the Jeep has been fun over the years building it, but honestly for what little I go off-road its way over kill for me. Plus the better half hates driving it.

At this point have my eye on a new Recon as I won't have to do much to it except add better armor underneath it. All depends on what kind of deal I can get for the one they have on the lot. Has every option I am looking for in the exact color I want as well. A slightly modded Jeep is all I need for what little off-roading I do.

Thanks all for the help :)

Stay Safe!

Ken~
 

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You mentioned that your tires were at 44 psi. Most likely they road force balanced them at that high pressure. You could try having them do it again at 28-32 lbs which is the pressure you are going to run them at. I don't know if it matters or not but I feel it does.
 
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