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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to figure out which is the best route to take. Would you advise getting the Spicer non-greasable centering ball #211544X or the greasable #211355X ? Also, am I right in understanding that there is only 1 needed for the entire DS? I think the only other thing I would need for this project is the Bearing Strap Kit #SPI-2-70-18X, is that correct? Rig is a '04 Sahara 4.0L with the OEM DS. I'm replacing the 5 u-joints for the DS and figure I might as well do the centering ball while it's all apart. Thanks,

:)
 

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IMHO get the greaseable centering ball kit and the new strap kit, money well spent. Then while you have the driveshaft out and all rebuilt grease the heck out of the double cardan u-joints and centering ball and once you have the driveshaft back in place grease the u-joint on the pumpkin end and your set.
 

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I would go with what ever the stock one is...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would go with what ever the stock one is...
Is there a way to find this out without having to tear into the DS? The Jeep is my only vehicle, so I can't really tear it apart and rely on another ride.
 

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The factory installs a sealed CV centering ball up front, I'd go for the same thing again. The only time I would consider greasable would be if the Jeep was constantly in deep soupy mud. Yes there is only one CV in a stock TJ, the rear driveshaft does not have a CV.

For the driveshaft u-joints, upgrade to the Spicer 5-1310x which is sealed, stronger, and a much more durable u-joint. It is a direct replacement for what the factory installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you, Jerry. I appreciate the advice.
 

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Is there a way to find this out without having to tear into the DS? The Jeep is my only vehicle, so I can't really tear it apart and rely on another ride.
You can take the front DS off and drive it like that while you tear into it/rebuild it. My front DS is currently sitting on my garage floor because I bent up the tube on some rocks a couple months ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You can take the front DS off and drive it like that while you tear into it/rebuild it. My front DS is currently sitting on my garage floor because I bent up the tube on some rocks a couple months ago.

Should I "seal" any areas up while the DS is off to prevent debris from getting into anything??
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Does anyone know of a good "How To" thread on removing and reinstalling both the F. DS and the R. DS, which does a sort of step by step? I just don't want to miss anything. Thanks,
 

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Check out Stu's Off-road. He has a write up with pictures for the exact procedure you're looking to do, plus a whole lot more.
 

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Does anyone know of a good "How To" thread on removing and reinstalling both the F. DS and the R. DS, which does a sort of step by step? I just don't want to miss anything. Thanks,
Agreed. Check out stu's site.
As far as removing the ds' s:
There are 4 10mm bolts (I think they're 10) holding the DS to the transfer case and 4 holding the DS to the pinion yoke (axle) take them out and compress the driveshaft and it will come right out.
You can compress it against the pinion with a large screwdriver or pry bar.
 

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Dang it. Well, I was close :surrender:
Yes you were! Getting old has forced me to remember the sizes of as much hardware as I can. I'm too old to be getting up & down from under my TJ when the wrench I brought down with me doesn't fit. I can remember that kind of stuff but I can't remember my granddaughters or grandson's birthdays. But my memory is nothing compared to Katherine's memory for wrench sizes who is Blaine/Black Magic Brake's wife. I can be crouched down staring at a bolt and she'll walk by and whisper "seventeen millimeter". :rofl:
 

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But my memory is nothing compared to Katherine's memory for wrench sizes who is Blaine/Black Magic Brake's wife. I can be crouched down staring at a bolt and she'll walk by and whisper "seventeen millimeter". :rofl:
3

That is awesome!
I swear, finding the right socket size is one of the most frustrating parts of working on anything. Especially when you start off with standard sizes, go through 3 of them and the bolt ends up being metric. :doh:

I actually left my ratchet on the TC skid last time I was working on the driveshafts. Couldn't find it for the life of me. Found it a couple weeks later when I was changing the TC fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I appreciate the help. Is it just as simple for removing the front DS? A couple more quick questions and then I should be done..lol I have heard that you should mark your DS on its position before removing it. What exactly would I be marking and where on the DS would the marks be place? Last, when I put the 4 bolts back onto the yoke and t-case to hold the DS, is there a specific torque to wrench them down to, or just until snug? Thanks everyone for all the help here.

:)
 

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The driveshaft's position does not need to be marked to remove it as one piece. It's only if you pull the driveshaft's two halves apart, which is uncommon, when the two halves need to be marked so they can be reassembled as they were. That simply keeps the driveshaft's front and rear u-joints square (in phase) with each other so they don't vibrate.
 
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