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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2012 JKU with 33s and a BB 3 inch lift. I get some rubbing when wheel is turned all the way. I am debating between either getting wheel spacers (Spidertrax 1.5") or just a new set of wheels. Thoughts? Wheel spacers with install will be about $240... a whole new set of 5 wheels will ballpark around $600. Pricewise - Wheel Spacers FTW.:winner:

Any and all input is appreciated. Thanks.
 

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I used 1.5" spacers for a few months to keep the OEM look, and I recently replaced them with AEV whheels. I forgot how much turning radius I have lost with the spacers and I'm much happier now without them. That said, you really should find a wheel that's designed for the JK to ensure the handling and turning radius is optimized.
 

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I used 1.5" spacers for a few months to keep the OEM look, and I recently replaced them with AEV whheels. I forgot how much turning radius I have lost with the spacers and I'm much happier now without them. That said, you really should find a wheel that's designed for the JK to ensure the handling and turning radius is optimized.
I'm not understanding your post. What is the difference between a wheel with a 6" offset using a 1.5" spacer, and a wheel with a 4.5" offset to begin with? The tires will be in the exact same place and will turn exactly the same.
 

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I use wheel spacers because I like the look of the factory wheels, I do not have space for the factory wheels if I were to remove them and store them for when the vehicle is sold.
 
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I'm really not trying to be a dick, so bear with me... The F do you mean "with install" on your spacers? Remove wheel, attach spacer, re-attach wheel. Not rocket science. Okay, end of dick-ish comments.

I'd recommend going for wheels rather than spacers, for a couple reasons:
1) Selling your old wheels, you recoup some of the cost
2) Spacers add another component to the list of possible failure - not saying that they're a bad thing, just one more thing that _can_ fail. I guess "Keep it simple"
3) You'll probably like how the new wheels look more than your old ones.
4) Going to a higher backspace / hopefully wider rim, you open up the possibility of going to a larger/wider tire as well.

dgreen asking how spacers change the turning radius - I agree it's no moreso than higher backspaced wheels, I think DenverDucati is saying compared to stock spacing - adding spacers effectively widens the stance at the tires. Even 3" total difference changes the turn radius at the same wheel angle. To give an extreme example, think of your own body - if you keep your feet closer together and shuffle to make a turn, it'll be a tighter turn than if you were to wide-squat and make the same turn.

O_E
 

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I rode on wheel spacers for three years for several reasons, including (1) because I like the stock wheel look, and (2) because I am cheap.

I eventually got rid of the spacers and got a set of Quadratec Moabs because:

1. I didn't like the added vibration I was getting from the added mass at the hubs whenever I hit a pothole
2. The Quadratec Moabs allowed me to retain the clean factory look
3. The Quadratec Moabs are wider, conforming with recommended 35" tire width
4. I got tired of America's Tire refusing to rotate and rebalance my tires because of the spacers
5. Selling the factory rims significantly subsidized the purchase of the new wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm really not trying to be a dick, so bear with me... The F do you mean "with install" on your spacers? Remove wheel, attach spacer, re-attach wheel. Not rocket science.
"Install" meaning... a shop to throw them on. I don't have the tools or equipment to lift and put them on. I get it is "easy", but time is money.
 

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"Install" meaning... a shop to throw them on. I don't have the tools or equipment to lift and put them on. I get it is "easy", but time is money.
Gotcha. Agreed time is money, glad you didn't take my comment the wrong way :)
 

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I run Synergy wheel spacers 1.5" on stock rims and will keep stock rims because I do like them but I can run a wider tire on my stock rims without any rubbing cuz I only have a teraflex level kit on right now and prolly will keep it that way cuz I jus don't want to have to explain to my insurance company how my 2015 Hard Rock tumbled down a rock lol...
Nuthun bad about wheel spacers, I have a buddy who runs them on a stock car an 600h/p has never had any problems with them, jus be sure you get hub centric and not lug centric
 

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I'm not understanding your post. What is the difference between a wheel with a 6" offset using a 1.5" spacer, and a wheel with a 4.5" offset to begin with? The tires will be in the exact same place and will turn exactly the same.
Re-read my post. I never said what you're suggesting. I said it's better to buy a wheel like AEV that's designed to give the best compromise of turning radius, stability, and capacity instead of just slapping spacers on. I did both, and the AEV wheel (with much larger tires btw) drives so much better than the OEM wheel with spacers it's not even close.
 

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Re-read my post. I never said what you're suggesting. I said it's better to buy a wheel like AEV that's designed to give the best compromise of turning radius, stability, and capacity instead of just slapping spacers on. I did both, and the AEV wheel (with much larger tires btw) drives so much better than the OEM wheel with spacers it's not even close.
I got you...that makes more sense. I misunderstood your post to think you were saying the turning radius was different. I completely agree that all things being equal, having the right equipment for the job is the best way to go. In this case, properly backspaced wheels definitely trump spacers.
 

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I got you...that makes more sense. I misunderstood your post to think you were saying the turning radius was different. I completely agree that all things being equal, having the right equipment for the job is the best way to go. In this case, properly backspaced wheels definitely trump spacers.
This is how you know it's better - when the wife drives the Jeep for the first time after the new wheels are added and instead of giving you crap for spending $1200+ on a set of wheels she says "this is easier to park now - why didn't you buy these sooner?" :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Im the OP.

Thanks for the input. I decided to go with the Spacers (for now). Found a buddy with tools to help put them on. Good option until I get new wheels later on.
 

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Im the OP.

Thanks for the input. I decided to go with the Spacers (for now). Found a buddy with tools to help put them on. Good option until I get new wheels later on.
I recently pulled mine off and sold them, and I seriously had about 10 PMs in 2 days. The good news is when you're ready to sell them, you will have buyers.
 

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I recently pulled mine off and sold them, and I seriously had about 10 PMs in 2 days. The good news is when you're ready to sell them, you will have buyers.
I decided to go the spacer route for the same reason. Was told I might need them for my 2" Mopar lift as it is pretty close to the sway bar links in the rear. I like my stock Rubicon wheels and couldn't decide on a wheel/tire combination that I liked better. Literally just received my Spidertrax spacers 10 minutes ago from the UPS guy. Figured I'd use them for as long as needed then I'd sell them to the next guy in my position down the road.
 

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I'm trying to decide the same thing. In searching around on the forums I see plenty of JKs running stock Rubicon wheels with 1.25-1.50 spacers and 35s with 10s of thousands of miles with no issues. Price can be a much bigger deal than the OP states as well. If you went with AEV rims it would be $1,175 vs $200-220. You also have to consider weight. The AEV Pintler at 26lb is lighter than the Rubicon+spacer at 28lb, but if you went with the Savegre or the new Salta at 35lb your much heavier than the Rubicon spacer combo. As far as backspacing, if you go with 1.25 spacers your very close to an AEV rim 5.0 vs 5.2. it all depends on how flexy your lift is and whether you've replaced control arms as to what BS you need. For me I need about 4.75 BS so the AEV wheels as much as I like them just won't work.
 

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I'm trying to decide the same thing. In searching around on the forums I see plenty of JKs running stock Rubicon wheels with 1.25-1.50 spacers and 35s with 10s of thousands of miles with no issues. Price can be a much bigger deal than the OP states as well. If you went with AEV rims it would be $1,175 vs $200-220. You also have to consider weight. The AEV Pintler at 26lb is lighter than the Rubicon+spacer at 28lb, but if you went with the Savegre or the new Salta at 35lb your much heavier than the Rubicon spacer combo. As far as backspacing, if you go with 1.25 spacers your very close to an AEV rim 5.0 vs 5.2. it all depends on how flexy your lift is and whether you've replaced control arms as to what BS you need. For me I need about 4.75 BS so the AEV wheels as much as I like them just won't work.
I considered Bora 1" spacers when I chose AT2 285x75x17s, but went with AEV Saltas on my 2015 HR. I might have been able to get Boras with 3/4" backspace, but would have played it safe at 1". I was a little concerned about the added maintenance (not failure) with spacers. As I understand it, spacers should be re-torqued preiodically, so I'd have to pull and re-install the wheels - not much work, but still inconvenient with hand tools. Plus, you have to watch your torque so as not to 'break" the Loctite. It was just more hassle than I wanted. I think that virtually any 35" tire will work under virtually any flex with 5-5.25 backspace, which keeps the wheels tucked in a tad more. That's not to say that fenders and other parts may require a mod for extreme wheeling.

Now, after suffering "buyer'$ regret," I switched to AT2 285x75x18s with Fuel Trophies, 5.25 backspace. I have the TF Budget Boost and have had no issues under some pretty decent flex, though not "extreme," as in running the Rubicon. As one commenter said, I think it's easier to sell used rims (in decent shape) than used spacers.
 
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