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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up my 1994 wrangler YJ with the 2.5l with only 108,000 miles on here. She's getting an oil change and spark plugs on monday and am thinking about draining the transmission fluids and filling it back up. Still doing research on what to use everyone has an opinion. After that I would like to start updating the parts on the outside like mirrors and hood clasps. All are old and rusty, and as I buy replacement parts I plan to paint her using the rustoleum roll on method. So, with these as my summer goal, I have a couple of questions.

1. I am going to pull the doors off and strip the rubber. They are all brittle and needs replacing. Is that something that is simple to do? Or will I need to take it somewhere? Can I just buy the rubber seals on the windows and the edges and just glue them down?

2. Is there a way to get rid of minor surface rust on parts by soaking them in a chemical? or is it worth just buying parts a little at a time?

3. Transmission fluid thoughts? Some people say MT redline, Penzoil Syncromesh, and others say just regular 10w30 motor oil. I know people swear by Redline, and say syncromesh is terrible. Why?

4. Wanting to do a break change. Do i just need the rotors and pads?

I am new to working on cars, but have always wanted to do this, so I am just diving in on a small project.

Pics to come soon :)
 

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Do not put motor oil in your transmission! Transmission fluid is made to lubricate and protect the internal parts as well as the seals. Motor oil is much thicker and does not contain these additives. Also if you get a leak it's much easier to pinpoint where it's coming from as transmission fluid is red.

As far as brakes go change out the pads, but I would see if you can get the rotors machined before I shelled out the money for new ones. I would also change out the brake fluid, the older it is the more it breaks down and gives you a really spongy pedal.
 

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1. They are simple to do, you can buy them from Quadratec.com or other vendor.
2. For surface rust, there is a paint and rust removal rotary brush that fits into a drill. ( careful, it can take skin off if you slip :-( )
3. People will FLUSH their manual transmissions with 10w30, but then when they fill it they use 75-90w
4. Front pads are simple. Check the rotors for for grooves and it's thickness. If thick and no grooves it should be fine. Nobody ever does the rears, so you will need shoes and hardware kit for certain. If your's is like mine, then you will need drums as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks! I just drained the fluid and filled her up. She shifts like a dream now. Now I need to bleed the clutch, it's kinda floppy right now. Will post more and post pictures soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I plan to rust proof the frame and re-paint the exterior. Doors need new seals. It has a crappy 3 in lift, wanna replace it with a rough country 3.5 lift, new bumpers, black rims, and a winch. Is like to add a sound system too, it only has two speakers right now, but atm I'm just getting to where she'll be reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright, I replaced my master cylander and slave cylander, and was driving her today and I guess it's my fuel burst open and spewed gas everywhere. It's the line on the left side and runs right on the frame. It has a massive hole in it. Thoughts on how to fix it??
 

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Alright, I replaced my master cylander and slave cylander, and was driving her today and I guess it's my fuel burst open and spewed gas everywhere. It's the line on the left side and runs right on the frame. It has a massive hole in it. Thoughts on how to fix it??
what exactly broke on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I figured it out. It was just the fuel line clip that ripped off. Just bought a new one, patched it and clipped the line back to the frame.
 
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