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2007 Jeep Wrangler Sahara - Manual
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a new aluminum tie rod and drag link kit this past weekend (2007 JK Sahara). I also installed a new Steering Stabilizer along with it since I was under there. By the time I got around to installing the SS I forgot that I had also purchased a SS relocation bracket and just installed the SS in the "factory" position. All seems to be fine, it's just that the SS is now mounted just behind the tie rod.

My odd question is...would it be worth the trouble/hassle to take it apart and install the bracket so the SS would reside on "top" of the tie rod? And if it is, since I have to remove the track bar to install the bracket (you merely have to remove it and the bracket shares the same bolt holding the track bar), will it have an impact on my alignment if I don't adjust the track bar at all.

I know some will say I don't even need the SS if everything else is okay, but I've already purchased it so I might as well use it. The question is will it "perform" any differently being mounted higher by using the bracket or would it be merely to get it up and out of the way. For the record, I don't do any rock crawling or any major off road activity. Thoughts?

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The advantage to having the SS mounted above the tie rod is if you off road it is a safer location for it. Less chance of a rock hitting it and damaging / breaking it.
But it will work the same in either location. Just make sure it clears when you turn all the way left and right, make sure it doesn't bind.
Removing the track bar bracket bolt to install the SS bracket won't affect your alignment.
 

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2007 Jeep Wrangler Sahara - Manual
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The advantage to having the SS mounted above the tie rod is if you off road it is a safer location for it. Less chance of a rock hitting it and damaging / breaking it.
But it will work the same in either location. Just make sure it clears when you turn all the way left and right, make sure it doesn't bind.
Removing the track bar bracket bolt to install the SS bracket won't affect your alignment.
Thanks Michael. It clears without issue and it doesn't bind anywhere. I was concerned with screwing up the alignment though because with your help I've finally gotten this thing driving pretty smoothly and the body centered on the axles!
 

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That's a nice alu TR & DL. I mounted my SS in the upper position but probably doesn't matter if it doesn't bind.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's a nice alu TR & DL. I mounted my SS in the upper position but probably doesn't matter if it doesn't bind. View attachment 4525292
Curious...did you have to use a relocation bracket? The way mine is set it is as high as I could get it without interference. I was just so tired by the end of this install I totally forgot I had the bracket...lol.
 

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I used a Synergy SS mount as I recall.
 

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I just put on 1ton rpm aluminum tie rod and drag link and tried to put an old man emu steering stabilizer in the relocated above tie rod location but i couldnt due to there not being enough room. I ended up with it back in the factory location. Hopefully i dont mash it up like i did the stock one.
 

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That's the one I have. Maybe someday I'll get around to installing it and get the SS up and out of the way, just in case I ever run into a pile of rocks!
Yup. You are fine for now. Nice mods!

I have a winch sitting in my garage that I need to install and my shoulders keep telling me "just say no". So, I understand your pain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I decided to install the relocation bracket and what seems like such an easy fix turned out to be not so. It ended up putting the SS at an odd angle and it ended up binding when I tried to drive it. I can’t imagine I did anything wrong as I’m pretty sure there is only one way to install it. I ended up putting it back on the factory location for now.

So it leaves me with a question for the group. Would it be possible, and okay to do so, to get a longer bolt and a spacer of some sort, to raise the connection point on the tie rod bracket? My thinking is it would make the SS closer to parallel with the tie rod and it wouldn’t bind. I’m just an idiot at this stuff so I have no idea if this idea has any merit. Thoughts? Here is a picture of it installed on the relocation bracket vs. the factory location in the OP.
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Well I decided to install the relocation bracket and what seems like such an easy fix turned out to be not so. It ended up putting the SS at an odd angle and it ended up binding when I tried to drive it. I can’t imagine I did anything wrong as I’m pretty sure there is only one way to install it. I ended up putting it back on the factory location for now.

So it leaves me with a question for the group. Would it be possible, and okay to do so, to get a longer bolt and a spacer of some sort, to raise the connection point on the tie rod bracket? My thinking is it would make the SS closer to parallel with the tie rod and it wouldn’t bind. I’m just an idiot at this stuff so I have no idea if this idea has any merit. Thoughts? Here is a picture of it installed on the relocation bracket vs. the factory location in the OP.
View attachment 4525465
Did you happen to install the relocation bracket upside down forcing the SS up? On my 2014 I installed a relocation bracket for the SS and it did not have that kind of angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did you happen to install the relocation bracket upside down forcing the SS up? On my 2014 I installed a relocation bracket for the SS and it did not have that kind of angle.
Well, I guess it could be installed the other way (upside down) but that would simply put the mount at the same level as the factory mount, at least in my case. My goal was to raise the mounting point to get the SS up and out of harms way.
 

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Should have been an easy fix, loosen up the bolts in the tierod clamp, rotate the clamp slightly towards the back of the Jeep, tighthen down the tierod clamp bolts, then turn the steering towards the driver side full lock, You should be able to find the spot were the SS doesn't hit the draglink or trackbar etc when your turn the steering full lock to any side. the diameter on the SS could be an issue of course combined with the diameter on your steering components. But give it a try again i think it should fit with what you have.

Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Should have been an easy fix, loosen up the bolts in the tierod clamp, rotate the clamp slightly towards the back of the Jeep, tighthen down the tierod clamp bolts, then turn the steering towards the driver side full lock, You should be able to find the spot were the SS doesn't hit the draglink or trackbar etc when your turn the steering full lock to any side. the diameter on the SS could be an issue of course combined with the diameter on your steering components. But give it a try again i think it should fit with what you have.

Good luck.
Thanks. I actually tried several spots. Clearance isn’t the issue, it’s the height (from the ground) of the connection point of the relocation bracket that appears to be the issue. That’s why I wondered if a longer bolt and some type of spacer to raise the connection point on the tie rod bracket would work, with the goal being able to mount the SS on top of ( or over) the tie rod.

Bottom line is if it has to stay lower it’s not the end of the world. I have limited off road options here and nothing I know of (at least yet) that its being lower will be an issue. I’m just trying to do things the right way…lol.
 

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So it leaves me with a question for the group. Would it be possible, and okay to do so, to get a longer bolt and a spacer of some sort, to raise the connection point on the tie rod bracket? My thinking is it would make the SS closer to parallel with the tie rod and it wouldn’t bind.
I had to use a longer bolt and spacer on my tierod clamp. But yours looks like a much more extreme case than mine was. The problem your going to have is on the tierod clamp. The angle of the SS bushing relative to the threads is eventually going to cause the threads to strip out. - I know because this happened on mine and ended up trashing the part.
 
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You seem to have the same problem I did. I have a fox ats 2.0 SS which has an external reservoir and also run 2.5ton steering but didn't seem to have enough space between the tie rod and drag link to install it there even with the synergy SS relocation. I just couldn't find a good way to install it to get it out of the way. My local jeep shop told me the only way to fix it will be to add a bit more lift through springs or even flipping the drag link but more lift is needed for that as well. I currently have a 2.5" lift but hoping to get 3.5" springs to see if I can give it a bit more space as I have found that it does make slight contact even when being careful. As much as I like wheeling I still don't want to ruin the nice SS if I can prevent it.
 

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Well, I guess it could be installed the other way (upside down) but that would simply put the mount at the same level as the factory mount, at least in my case. My goal was to raise the mounting point to get the SS up and out of harms way.
It’s hard to say from a picture, but as long as you don’t go crazy with spacer length it looks to me like a longer bolt and a spacer would be an option. Make sure you use a strong bolt, similar to the grade you have now. I assume it is grade 8, but not sure.

I have hydro assist now, but for a while I had the 2.5 ton aluminum tie rod with a stock style steering stabilizer and a high mount built into the track bar bracket. I was able to find a mount set up that cleared.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I had to use a longer bolt and spacer on my tierod clamp. But yours looks like a much more extreme case than mine was. The problem your going to have is on the tierod clamp. The angle of the SS bushing relative to the threads is eventually going to cause the threads to strip out. - I know because this happened on mine and ended up trashing the part.
That is the one concern with my idea is the added "pressure" of a longer bolt and spacer and the longevity. But I'm glad to read that someone has tried it!
 
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