Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am installing a 2.5 inch rough country lift because my stock suspension is shot. The struts shake from the bushings and he leaf springs are straight as can be.

The leaf spring bolts are a huge pain in my ass right now and the bolts are stuck inside the damn bushing. I used a torch and PB blaster. Has anyone ever dealth with this??

The yj has 200000 on it so I am not surprised that its stuck, just trying to avoid cutting it because the Nut came off it just wont slide through.

ALSO any tips on the struts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I had the same problem last fall when I replaced all 4 leafs. All the pounding in the world wouldn't budge the bolts, had to cut them all. Used reciprocating saw and 4" grinding wheel. Cut between the end of the bushing and the shackle mount. Might have to cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing. Tough work, but I finely got through it after several days. Advice when replacing, use grease-able bolts and maintain them, so they don't freeze up again. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Then an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel it is! Just need to find a friend who has one because mine grew legs apparently
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,317 Posts
Then an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel it is! Just need to find a friend who has one because mine grew legs apparently
They aren't that expensive and very handy for other stuff on the Jeep. If you can swing it, buy one. Even Harbor Freight has them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
To the OP,

Since you got the nuts off (which I probably would have torched off, but I'm lazy) you should give this a try:

Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

(Some) people think WD-40 is a good penetrant. In fact, it is a "water dispersant," hence it's name, i.e., "Water Dispersant (trial #) 40). While it will serve as a (poor, IMO) penentrant, there are others.

I've worked at car dealers where the techs swore by PB Blaster, which I agree is better than WD40.

But "Kroil," which I linked to, above, is, by far, the best penetrant, in many folks opinion (including mine).

You can also get "SiliKroil," which is regular Kroil with some silicone mixed in, that stays behind, and I can attest to it's ability to do just that. The PO of my F-250 had to spray the TC shifter linkage, once or twice a year, with WD-40, or it would freeze (rust) up. I used SiliKroil once in, like, two years, and it lasted better than WD-40.

But you do get what you pay for. I buy it by the case, so I can't say for sure, but IIRC, it's about $12. for a large aerosol can of regular Kroil.

And like any penetrant, time is your friend. IOW, spay it before work, after work, before you go to bed. For DAYS, if need be.

Heat it up, let it cool to a NON-flammable temp, and spray it--rinse, repeat. Do that for days, and possibly longer, and you will get there, I'm confident.

Or you could use the torch, and skip the Kroil--but (and I have NO association with Kroil, other than I bought some and use it) Kroil has MANY uses.

I don't have time to read their website now, but if memory serves, they've been around for about 60 years, and may have come out of the aviation/aerospace industry--again, I can't remember for sure.

And definitely get new bolts--you've probably (unavoidably) over-stressed the OEM's, and new bolts are cheap insurance.

Let us know how you make out?

Best pf luck,

Y-Yes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
Spray isn't going to help in this case. Those bushing bolts are a different animal. They rust so bad that they weld themselves in permanently.
Spray away anywhere else on the Jeep though.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,718 Posts
I used a Sawzall on mine. I used a bi-metal blade and cut the bolt, between the spring and spring mount on the frame on both sides of the spring. Even with the spring on the floor, I was unable to get the stub of the bolt out of the spring bushing.
It's a lot of hard work to cut the bolts. I used WD40 as a cutting oil because I didn't have any other oil to keep the blade cool. It took me about an hour to cut each bolt.

Use Neversiez during assembly. Torque the main eye and shackle bolts with the full weight of the Jeep on the ground.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,236 Posts
As much as it sounds barbaric, a cutting torch to melt the bolt out of the sleeve and the burning rubber bushing usually pushes out easily since it has the consistency of a flaming marshmallow on a stick. Its a smoky, sticky procedure but quick once you get to the last couple.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnHLwInfsGQ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you all for your posts! After two days of cutting and wrenching away I finally got the lift on. I didn't see the posts about the other penetrating oils but I will take note of it.

It was wild process with burning out a portable angle grinder and going through many saw blades. Of course I didn't use the never seize cause I'm and idiot and forgot to pick some up.

Thanks for everything guys!

Pics before, after, ad with bigger wheels
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Congratulations!

But did you see this important PSA?

rustbelt said:
*snip*...Advice when replacing, use grease-able bolts and maintain them, so they don't freeze up again. Good luck.*snip*...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
I Didn't until after I did it -.-
Hopefully I wont need to deal with this again. lol silly me
Hey--I hope you didn't think I was trying to "kick you when you were down...."

Quite the contrary--you had some much-deserved success!

I just wanted to spread the word about grease-able shackles, as I only learned about them, myself, quite recently.

Again-congratulations on a job COMPLETED and well done! (Sometimes, unfortunately, I allow "the perfect" to become the enemy of "the good enough"--or better! LOL We're all here to learn--and save $ on repairs--and have fun, right?) :)

Y-Yes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
I'd say it's worth the time to get the grease-able bolts and swap them in even though the lift is done.

You probably noticed that the frozen bolts at the spring hangers weren't letting the spring eyes rotate. This has a negative effect on flex and puts a huge amount of strain on the top spring leaf that has the eye.

Keeping those bolts greased with allow the spring eye to rotate as you flex, giving you better, softer flex and prolonged spring life.

The other thing to do is back off the torque from 110 ft/lbs to around 40 ft/lbs for more flex yet.

My two cents....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey--I hope you didn't think I was trying to "kick you when you were down...."

Quite the contrary--you had some much-deserved success!

I just wanted to spread the word about grease-able shackles, as I only learned about them, myself, quite recently.

Again-congratulations on a job COMPLETED and well done! (Sometimes, unfortunately, I allow "the perfect" to become the enemy of "the good enough"--or better! LOL We're all here to learn--and save $ on repairs--and have fun, right?) :)

Y-Yes
NO NO NO!! I didnt thiknk you were, I take all advice to heart and in a good way. I learn from my mistakes and will use anything that is useful and that my ffriend was useful I just should have caught it before I put it together!

I'd say it's worth the time to get the grease-able bolts and swap them in even though the lift is done.

You probably noticed that the frozen bolts at the spring hangers weren't letting the spring eyes rotate. This has a negative effect on flex and puts a huge amount of strain on the top spring leaf that has the eye.

Keeping those bolts greased with allow the spring eye to rotate as you flex, giving you better, softer flex and prolonged spring life.

The other thing to do is back off the torque from 110 ft/lbs to around 40 ft/lbs for more flex yet.

My two cents....
Sounds good I will have to go under there and fix that! I am only using it as a beach cruiser till I fix my rear right shackle and I just found the cross frame is SHOT and is ready to snap. I will be taking the body off and either swap the frame or repair it. Might be better off to swap it and sell the busted one I think. At that point I will DEFFINATLEY grease or put in grease shackles!
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top