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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'll start by giving credit to Steampunk for talking about the stock tweeters on the thread where he installed new Infinity tweeters. That is what sent me down this path.

I have a 2012 with the Infinity system and you guys are just going to have to fill in the blanks for Alpine systems or non upgraded systems. I think there is a decent chance that they all have basically the same factory tweeter.

UPDATE EDIT: This mod does not work on the BASE systems.

For the Infinity '07-'12 systems you use a 10.0uF 100v non polar radial capacitor.

For the '13-'14 Alpine systems, you use a 4.7uF 100v non polar radial capacitor.


The stock tweeter has a 3.3uf capacitor and measures at 3.4 ohms (1 of mine was 3.5). If you do the math on that (cheaty link here: Car Audio - Speaker Crossover Chart and Capacitance vs. Frequency Calculator(High-pass) ) you end up with a -3db point of 14171hz on a 6db per octave slope. Its a horrible crossover for a tweeter in a car where reaching freq of 15k are almost non existent anyways unless you have a super high end system and are using master recordings. The chart below shows how little happens above 15k.



I decided that I would remove the 3.3uf and put on a 10.0uf capacitor to get a -3db point of 4676hz which puts the slope beginning around 5k. I think these tweeters can handle those frequencies without too much trouble.

SO:

I stopped by Fry's electronics and picked up 2 non-polar 10.0uf 100v capacitors for a whopping $2.79. I told you it was CHEAP.



Then with a very small flat screwdriver, I removed the first tweeter from the tombstone.



Once I had the tweeter out of the tombstone, I removed the connector which is easy.



Then in to the house where it was COOL and began the capacitor swap. I don't have any pictures of the un-solder and re-solder due to using both hands and nobody was here to help. If you are mildly handy with a soldering iron this will be easy. Just do not overheat the terminals as voicecoil damage can occur.

I used a small needlenose pliers to assist with the removal on the first one... The second one I just cut off with small dykes and let the iron remove the leads. You can see the grey capacitor under the little plastic flap.

Here is the new cap installed on the tweeter. It is a little larger so I moved it over to the other side of the tweeter and soldered it in place.



Then I went back out and plugged it in and it goes right back in the tombstone with no issues.


So then the fun began... I checked it out myself and noticed a significant improvement in high frequency performance and female vocals were a lot better. So I brought my wife out and said "ok honey, One of these tweeters is not like the others, One of these tweeters just doesn't belong, Can you tell which tweeter is not like the other"... (ok, she's a school teacher). I gave her a blind listen (she didn't know which one I had done) with many different types of music and let her sit in both seats and she 100% accurately picked the modified tweeter side as sounding noticeably better. Even more so when using the balance control from left to right.

:awesome:

Sadly, this doesn't suddenly make your system sound like you have MB Quart's installed. But it took me all of 20 minutes including the time with her listening tests.

We did go for a ride and she came back and said wow... you should sell a kit online... Uh, no honey I will just show the community how to do it, because that's what we do. :beerdrinking:
 

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Nice write up! Thanks for testing that, I think I'll give that a try!
 

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Very cool! I'm going to try it if I can find an electronics shop somewhere around me that sells some.
 

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We live less then 10 miles apart let me know if you get bored and want to do mine.

Great write.
 

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The only place around me I would think that would have them don't show up as
non-polar 10.0uf 100v capacitor....
This is a very nice mod and I am ready to do it....
 

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Do they need to be non-polar caps? I think if you knew which terminal was positive, you could use polarized electrolytics no?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
We live less then 10 miles apart let me know if you get bored and want to do mine.

Great write.
I'm in, I'll pick up the caps next time I am in that part of town and PM you when I have them and we'll set it up.

For those looking for the caps, here is a great source.

10uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor | 027-340

The caps are super cheap but you have to pay $3-$4 bucks for shipping.

Also, I did go pull one of my OLD master recordings and holy cow, I thought I was listening to a full high end custom system...

This is a 31 year old recording but blows away what they do today.

 
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I'm in, I'll pick up the caps next time I am in that part of town and PM you when I have them and we'll set it up.

For those looking for the caps, here is a great source.

10uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor | 027-340

The caps are super cheap but you have to pay $3-$4 bucks for shipping.

Also, I did go pull one of my OLD master recordings and holy cow, I thought I was listening to a full high end custom system...

This is a 31 year old recording but blows away what they do today.
Oh this is awesome. I'm definitely a noob a soldering but worth a go IMO. Great write up.
 

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Seriously, thank you for taking the time to write this up. This one is on the calendar.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do they need to be non-polar caps? I think if you knew which terminal was positive, you could use polarized electrolytics no?
It's been 30+ years since this was a hobby of mine, but I was taught that you always used non-polar for crossover networks. That may have changed, but I chose to bank on experience...

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just got home from 3 electronic stores and came home empty handed...:(
Well that sucks... I know Radio Shack lists them, but I doubt that they would have them in a store these days, they don't stock much.

In Phoenix we have Fry's Electronics and in Tucson I would use Elliott Electronics. Both would have them on the shelf.

SpeakerWorks has them too: Capacitor Electrolytic: 10uF, 100V
 

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Yea Radio shack sucks now a days... I wanted to do it today but no luck..
Thanks for the link I just ordered them... I can't wait to get them now..lol
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh this is awesome. I'm definitely a noob a soldering but worth a go IMO. Great write up.
Since you have the newer Alpine system, can you pull out a tweeter and see what the factory capacitor is and put an ohmmeter on the tweeter and see what it is? I want to make sure you get the correct capacitors.
 

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Since you have the newer Alpine system, can you pull out a tweeter and see what the factory capacitor is and put an ohmmeter on the tweeter and see what it is? I want to make sure you get the correct capacitors.
Alpine here, and mine tested at 5 ohm, and say 2.2 u on the capacitor.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
At 5 ohms, a 6.8uf capacitor would give the exact same crossover point as I put on my Infinity system. A 4.7uf cap would give a -3 db point of 6765 if you wanted to go more conservative. The 2.2uf is way up there around 15,000 hz and basically making the tweeter useless.
 
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