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I plan on replacing my radiator this spring. I'm fairly certain it is packed full of mud that I cannot get out, and it could have a pin hole leak.

Is the Mishimoto really worth 3 times that of a stock one?
 

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I look at it this way, I have driven 100k on the stock and counting. I will stick with stock when the time comes.
 
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I plan on replacing my radiator this spring. I'm fairly certain it is packed full of mud that I cannot get out, and it could have a pin hole leak.

Is the Mishimoto really worth 3 times that of a stock one?
OEM on my 14 started leaking around 40+ thousand and I replaced it with an all aluminum 3 core from ASI. Now have 80+ on it and all is good. I don't buy the too much flex thing causing all aluminum to break. It's mounted in rubber if done correctly that would absorb that flex. The Mishimoto is quite similar in construction so should hold up much the same.

Now the better question might be is there anything performance wise to gain by going the all aluminum route? I have seen only limited difference in temperatures even running through the mountains or towing or wheeling where speed cannot be attained to aid in air flow in 95 degree weather. So it comes down to whatever you choose to do.
 

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I'd replace it before spring if it's packed with "mud". How would that happen? You should eagerly flush the entire system while you are at it, but it appears you may realize this after looking through the extent of the work you've put into your JK.


Get a coolant back flush spout if you don't already have one.


OEMTOOLS 24506 Cooling System Back Flush Tool
 

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And even more about leaking OEM radiators.:)
Except oem radiators typically last 5-10+ years.
Still have factory one in my 98 with 192k.

And how many factory radiators are in use vs mishimoto?

Use whatever you like, but there's a way higher chance of the aftermarket one leaking again, and likely well before an OEM one would.
 

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Except oem radiators typically last 5-10+ years.
Still have factory one in my 98 with 192k.

And how many factory radiators are in use vs mishimoto?

Use whatever you like, but there's a way higher chance of the aftermarket one leaking again, and likely well before an OEM one would.
Your 98 TJ is a totally different animal than what the newer JKs use. The TJ uses a vertical core and ours are horizontal. Yes your 98 may well last a long time but for the most part our JKs, and this is a JK forum, seem to have a history of OEM radiator failures. As I said, mine started leaking around the left side end tank as many do around 40+ thousand. I'm not supporting Mishimoto in particular or any other supplier for that matter even though I've used their products in the past and had good luck with them. Shoot, I have some late 60s and early 70 cars that still have the original radiators in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I replaced it with an all aluminum 3 core from ASI.
I saw a thread on those being on eBay. They seem to go for about $200 or less.

I'd replace it before spring if it's packed with "mud". How would that happen?
The mud is on the outside, in the cooling fins. I sank it quite a few years back and it has never been the same since. Runs way too hot.

Except oem radiators typically last 5-10+ years.
Still have factory one in my 98 with 192k.

And how many factory radiators are in use vs mishimoto?

Use whatever you like, but there's a way higher chance of the aftermarket one leaking again, and likely well before an OEM one would.
I would think the chances are probably about the same.

I'm looking for something that will do a better job at cooling the engine than the stock one could.
 

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I'm not saying the TJ and jk rads are the same, I'm just trying to save someone the hassle of getting a leaking aftermarket one.
Why not try to save him from getting a leaky OEM one then? This is a well documented JK issue. 6 of 1 and half a dozen of the other.

I saw a thread on those being on eBay. They seem to go for about $200 or less.
They have gone up a bit since I got mine. I paid like $140 and it shipped from a place in Walden Kentucky. I'd have to look back through things to get a name. Like I said, I've seen little performance difference even towing heavy and at altitude and neither have some of the guys around here that are running other brands. I'm just not a fan of plastic. If my aluminum develops a leak I can easily fix it either with my tig welder or alumaloy rod and a torch. With plastic you just throw it away and start over.
 

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My 10A just sprung a leak at 84k; the leak is on the driver side where the plastic is crimped to the aluminum. New oem one sitting in my hallway waiting to be installed this weekend. Hopefully I’ll get another 7 years and 83k out of this one.

My son’s LJ oem rad cracked on the top plastic tank this past August. 13 years and 135k on that one. We installed another mopar one there too.
 

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Pretty sure this is why I am having heat issues. I decided to just go with an OEM replacement.

Did you try just spraying out the mud? I know it could take a while because it’s so caked. I had mud like that after an ill considered foray into mud bogging. I burned through two radiator fans before I realized the problem. It took a while but I was eventually able to spray out all the mud from the fins.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Did you try just spraying out the mud? I know it could take a while because it’s so caked. I had mud like that after an ill considered foray into mud bogging. I burned through two radiator fans before I realized the problem. It took a while but I was eventually able to spray out all the mud from the fins.
I tried several times. There was no way t get to this without removing the AC condenser and transmission cooler. I didn't even know it was this bad until I had it out.
 
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