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A couple things are happening here. The first is and it applies to all car audio is shallow subs will not produce the punch that a full size sub will. They just don't move a bunch of air. I am running a real nice 12 inch shallow sub and even here you don't get punch. Even with 500 watts driving it it won't rattle the vehicle. If you want punch you need a full size sub.

But the biggest problem with the factory Alpine system is the head unit/amp rolls of the lows very early, probably around 125 hz. This is done to keep the factory system from rattling which the factory sub enclosure will do if you get a good signal to it.

Many way to address this with installing a new head unit probably being the easiest route. I just ripped the whole system out and started over.
Those are some of the things I anticipated. My previous car had a fully powered 12" in ported enclosure so I knew that 8" wouldn't compare.

It seems that most everyone on here feels that replacing the alpine sub created a better sound quality and that's what I was hoping for but thus far it seems that the alpine sub was better.

I think I just need to give it a week or so to be sure. I have a 60 day return on the sub I bought so I've got time
 

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Okay so I came across this thread after I bought a '14 JKU with the alpine system and felt lacking. I did the tweeter and soundbar modification and they sound AWESOME!

I did almost the same setup with the sub using the newer model of the sub (TS-A2000LD2). Its rated nearly identical in specs.

I did quite a few tests and found the quality from the sub to be even worse than the original alpine. It doesn't come through much at all and has way less punch. I'm wondering how any of you wired it up. Maybe I made a mistake there? It just seems robbed of power
I am still just wired directly to the factory amp. It works pretty well, but it's been said many times, the sub swap isn't about louder or more bass, it's about cleaner and clearer bass. My daughter actually prefers the stock sub because she "hears" more with it... I feel more with the Pioneer sub. But as ScaldedDog mentions above, the way to get more is to more power to it. A small class D amp under the passenger seat is easy and makes a BIG difference. That brings it up to PRS+ status...
 

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I thought the original Pioneer sounded much better than the stock one, but did eventually install an amp for it. I should have done that to begin with.

Mark

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
I'm considering adding an amp to the equation but I'm unsure.

A few questions

Did you run an amp from the stock head unit?

Did you continue using the stock sub box?

How much difference did it make?
 

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I am still just wired directly to the factory amp. It works pretty well, but it's been said many times, the sub swap isn't about louder or more bass, it's about cleaner and clearer bass. My daughter actually prefers the stock sub because she "hears" more with it... I feel more with the Pioneer sub. But as ScaldedDog mentions above, the way to get more is to more power to it. A small class D amp under the passenger seat is easy and makes a BIG difference. That brings it up to PRS+ status...
That's likely what I'm going to do. I'm after a balanced accurate sound AND power and I should have known better than to expect that from the factory amp.

I need to do my research on how to wire an amp to a stock head unit and about wiring to a DVC sub. I have concerns about the enclosure holding up to that power.

What does PRS mean? I've seen it a lot on here and I'm not sure what it means
 

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That's likely what I'm going to do. I'm after a balanced accurate sound AND power and I should have known better than to expect that from the factory amp.

I need to do my research on how to wire an amp to a stock head unit and about wiring to a DVC sub. I have concerns about the enclosure holding up to that power.

What does PRS mean? I've seen it a lot on here and I'm not sure what it means
I'll find the link to a write up that one of our members did... it goes through how to add the amp. I would also consider putting in a line level converter to keep the signal clean. While it isn't as common on subwoofers, we have found that wiring the amp and sub in stereo rather than mono has given the best results.

PRS is the 3 guys that worked on this stereo upgrade. P is me, Pressurized and R is RubiconSS and S is SteedGun. Each invested in components to test and compare to come up with the best pieces to upgrade the factory system. Another old friend Anvil4Life did the write up that we share on his build thread for the amp install.


 

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I'm considering adding an amp to the equation but I'm unsure.

A few questions

Did you run an amp from the stock head unit?

Did you continue using the stock sub box?

How much difference did it make?
I ended up installing a mono amp, mounted under the passenger seat. It made a HUGE difference.

Before doing that, I too was underwhelmed with the 8” Pioneer swap. But, add some power to it and it can really pump out some bass.

Setup:

* 2013 with factory enclosure, but added sound deadening.

* Replaced factory 130 radio with aftermarket Alpine WRA

* Ran new line-level wiring from head unit to amp, and new speaker wire from amp to the dual coil pioneer sub in the factory enclosure.
 

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I ended up installing a mono amp, mounted under the passenger seat. It made a HUGE difference.

Before doing that, I too was underwhelmed with the 8” Pioneer swap. But, add some power to it and it can really pump out some bass.

Setup:

* 2013 with factory enclosure, but added sound deadening.

* Replaced factory 130 radio with aftermarket Alpine WRA

* Ran new line-level wiring from head unit to amp, and new speaker wire from amp to the dual coil pioneer sub in the factory enclosure.
Which amp did you go with? I'm not car audio saavy and wanted to do the subwoofer upgrade with the amp. Thanks!
 

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Which amp did you go with? I'm not car audio saavy and wanted to do the subwoofer upgrade with the amp. Thanks!
Alpine MRV-M500. 500 amp. It has adjustable bass on the amp, and you can optionally add a remote bass control knob.
 

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I'll find the link to a write up that one of our members did... it goes through how to add the amp. I would also consider putting in a line level converter to keep the signal clean. While it isn't as common on subwoofers, we have found that wiring the amp and sub in stereo rather than mono has given the best results.

PRS is the 3 guys that worked on this stereo upgrade. P is me, Pressurized and R is RubiconSS and S is SteedGun. Each invested in components to test and compare to come up with the best pieces to upgrade the factory system. Another old friend Anvil4Life did the write up that we share on his build thread for the amp install.


I gave it another wurl this morning. It may have been the stress from yesterday (burned myself with the soldering iron and stripped the head of a screw) but I'm more satisfied.

I'm definitely getting some warmth from the sub now. I'll have to give it time and see how I feel. I can always add an amp so I'm good. All in all though this upgrade is a big difference for little money
 

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I gave it another wurl this morning. It may have been the stress from yesterday (burned myself with the soldering iron and stripped the head of a screw) but I'm more satisfied.

I'm definitely getting some warmth from the sub now. I'll have to give it time and see how I feel. I can always add an amp so I'm good. All in all though this upgrade is a big difference for little money
Big difference for little money was the entire goal of the project.

Cheers!!!
 

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Good morning. Read thru 85% of this thread and several others. My 2nd Jeep that I've done the PRS mod...love it! Thanks Guys! This time However, I'm going to do the PRS+. I bought the Precision Power I350 and plan on wiring it this weekend. My question that I couldn't find an answer to is: Why did you choose to NOT use the REMote wire? Is it because it detects power from the speakers? Will it always be "ON"? Thanks
 

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Good morning. Read thru 85% of this thread and several others. My 2nd Jeep that I've done the PRS mod...love it! Thanks Guys! This time However, I'm going to do the PRS+. I bought the Precision Power I350 and plan on wiring it this weekend. My question that I couldn't find an answer to is: Why did you choose to NOT use the REMote wire? Is it because it detects power from the speakers? Will it always be "ON"? Thanks
I'm not sure about that amp specifically but if you wire an amp to receive speaker level inputs then a remote wire isn't needed in most any amp. I literally just finished installing an amp for my sub yesterday and tapped into the speaker lines to the sub and that's it. Super easy
 

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Alright so a heads up about the sub box. Yesterday I installed an amp run my pioneer sub that I'm keeping in the stock Alpine enclosure. I fired it up and it was driving that sucker pretty well! But..

It sounded off. I was hearing a strange almost hissing sound. Spent the morning checking it and BOOM. Air was leaking out of the back. I had to remove the whole sub box and have it caulked up with silicone.

Just beware. As you all probably know a sealed enclosure needs to be FULLY sealed.
 

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I'm not sure about that amp specifically but if you wire an amp to receive speaker level inputs then a remote wire isn't needed in most any amp. I literally just finished installing an amp for my sub yesterday and tapped into the speaker lines to the sub and that's it. Super easy
Good morning. I recently upgraded to the Pioneer sub and have been thinking about adding an amp to drive it. Can you expand a little more on how you wired yours (I'm not audio system savvy!). It sounds like you cut the speaker wire for the subs next to the passenger seat and just routed them to/from the amp installed under the seat, correct? I'm guessing there are not pre-amp outputs on the back of the stock head units. Thanks!
 

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Good morning. I recently upgraded to the Pioneer sub and have been thinking about adding an amp to drive it. Can you expand a little more on how you wired yours (I'm not audio system savvy!). It sounds like you cut the speaker wire for the subs next to the passenger seat and just routed them to/from the amp installed under the seat, correct? I'm guessing there are not pre-amp outputs on the back of the stock head units. Thanks!
Yea. I'll run it down as best as I can with tons of detail. Idk how much you know so I'll cover it all. First off I write this assuming you have the factory alpine system. Here's what I did:

Make sure to disconnect the negative on the battery before starting!

I went for a 2 channel amp that could accept speaker level (line level) inputs. Starting with the power for the amp I ran the positive through a roughly 2" hole in the firewall on the passenger side. You're gonna have to pop off the panel on the side of your dash to see it. Take a screwdriver and punch through it to feed the power.

I placed the amp under the passenger seat. I went through the extra step of unbolting the passenger seat for access. Under the carpet is a ground wire for something else in the car. It's bolted to the transmission bubble. I actually scraped the paint off to bare metal on the floor and used a self tapping screw to secure the ground.

You can skip the remote turn on wire that goes between the ground and power terminals on almost any amp that receives line level inputs. When the amp receives a signal through the speaker wire it will trigger on.

As far as wiring the inputs to the amp I pulled up the plastic panel that runs along the passenger door jam. Under there is a cluster of wires. The sub leads are green/white (-) and grey/white (+) for one sibwoofer coil. The other is green/brown (-) and grey/brown(+).

Fun fact about the unusual way this factory amp is set up: since they use a separate set of negative/positive wires for each subwoofer coil, it makes wiring an amp using speaker level inputs easier!

What you're gonna do is wire the amp "in line". Just gotta pull the sub wires, clip and strip them. Then you can attach the side of the wires coming from the head unit/amp to the wire adapter for the speaker level inputs that the amp comes with. And boom. You have an input for the amp. I attached about a 12" length of speaker wire to the factory wires to do this part. Just gives more room to work with when you place the amp.

From here you can wire up the outputs from the amp back into the sub. In this area you have 2 options depending on the ratings of your amp. Mine could push 2 channels at 120 watts rms at 2 ohms. It could also be bridged to make 1 channel run 240 watts rms at 4 ohms.

Since your using speaker level inputs that are already amplified a bit from the factory amp, the gain on the amp can stay very low. The signal is boosted from the input level to even higher so its going to come in strong with this setup. Avoid over gaining the amp.

With that being said since the pioneer sub I put in is a DVC with each coil rated at 2 ohms I could connect my amp in either configuration. I started by bridging the amp and running the sub that way. The problem with that was that even when the gain on the amp was set to zero, it was pushing the sub way to hard. This is again bc I used speaker level inputs that are already amped a bit. You can try this and see how you like it but it was too much. If you decide to do it this way let me know and I can go over how to wire the sub up for 4 ohms.

I swapped out the configuration and ran a positive/negative from the 2 output channels of the amp to each coil of the sub. This is possible bc my amp could sustain a 2 ohm load on each channel. The magic of the DVC sub is that you can wire it in stereo like this.

This configuration yielded just the right results. The sub in that enclosure sounds PLENTY good even when I'm not running it its max potential. This is better bc you can adjust the gain on the amp up or down to get your desired power and not risk overheating the amp or blowing the sub.

Also I've heard others say they had better results running it stereo like that so do with that what you will.

Now to the part that SUCKED. After running the sub with the new amp I noticed a weird hissing/metallic sound. After about an hour of looking I realized it was an air leak.. since a sub box needs a full seal: no good.

I ended up having to unbolt the whole enclosure to get to the leak. The enclosure is made of a plastic shell with a backplate that are attached somehow. What I ended up doing was taking a tube of silicone caulk and sealing up the ENTIRE seam where the two pieces of plastic meet. And believe me. You have to do the whole thing. I had leaks all around.

Now this might have just been an issue only present in mine due to a defect or something. But i think it's more likely that the original box didn't come made to handle that type of power.

With that being said after installing the amp I saw a pretty bug jump in low end quality. But after sealing the box like I did, this thing is night and day. The lows are very rich and come through strong when needed. The bass blends like it should and comes strong when called for.

Now I know i just wrote alot. Don't be offended if I over explained. Just wanna be thorough. If you have any questions lemme know
 

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Nicely done... One of the original participants also did a write up on his build thread, I'll link the starting post below. Much of his install is showing "bridged", but he converted to stereo with much improvement.

I still have not amped my sub, but one of the options I was considering if I did was to add a line level converter to give a little more tunability to the amp. As mentioned above, when using the speaker level inputs, you really need to run in stereo or it over drives the amp. You would then need to wire the turn on lead also...

 

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Nicely done... One of the original participants also did a write up on his build thread, I'll link the starting post below. Much of his install is showing "bridged", but he converted to stereo with much improvement.

I still have not amped my sub, but one of the options I was considering if I did was to add a line level converter to give a little more tunability to the amp. As mentioned above, when using the speaker level inputs, you really need to run in stereo or it over drives the amp. You would then need to wire the turn on lead also...

Wait are you saying that if you run the amp in stereo you have to then use the remote turn one lead? Even if its still a speaker level input
 

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Wait are you saying that if you run the amp in stereo you have to then use the remote turn one lead? Even if its still a speaker level input
No, only if you add a line level converter before the amp. Sorry, my post was confusing... There are inexpensive ones like the Kicker or premium like the LC2i...



I'm not saying the line level converter is needed, just said that it's something I would consider at this point. Lots out there running the high level inputs in stereo and it's working great.
 

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Yea. I'll run it down as best as I can with tons of detail. Idk how much you know so I'll cover it all. First off I write this assuming you have the factory alpine system. Here's what I did:

Make sure to disconnect the negative on the battery before starting!

I went for a 2 channel amp that could accept speaker level (line level) inputs. Starting with the power for the amp I ran the positive through a roughly 2" hole in the firewall on the passenger side. You're gonna have to pop off the panel on the side of your dash to see it. Take a screwdriver and punch through it to feed the power.

I placed the amp under the passenger seat. I went through the extra step of unbolting the passenger seat for access. Under the carpet is a ground wire for something else in the car. It's bolted to the transmission bubble. I actually scraped the paint off to bare metal on the floor and used a self tapping screw to secure the ground.

You can skip the remote turn on wire that goes between the ground and power terminals on almost any amp that receives line level inputs. When the amp receives a signal through the speaker wire it will trigger on.

As far as wiring the inputs to the amp I pulled up the plastic panel that runs along the passenger door jam. Under there is a cluster of wires. The sub leads are green/white (-) and grey/white (+) for one sibwoofer coil. The other is green/brown (-) and grey/brown(+).

Fun fact about the unusual way this factory amp is set up: since they use a separate set of negative/positive wires for each subwoofer coil, it makes wiring an amp using speaker level inputs easier!

What you're gonna do is wire the amp "in line". Just gotta pull the sub wires, clip and strip them. Then you can attach the side of the wires coming from the head unit/amp to the wire adapter for the speaker level inputs that the amp comes with. And boom. You have an input for the amp. I attached about a 12" length of speaker wire to the factory wires to do this part. Just gives more room to work with when you place the amp.

From here you can wire up the outputs from the amp back into the sub. In this area you have 2 options depending on the ratings of your amp. Mine could push 2 channels at 120 watts rms at 2 ohms. It could also be bridged to make 1 channel run 240 watts rms at 4 ohms.

Since your using speaker level inputs that are already amplified a bit from the factory amp, the gain on the amp can stay very low. The signal is boosted from the input level to even higher so its going to come in strong with this setup. Avoid over gaining the amp.

With that being said since the pioneer sub I put in is a DVC with each coil rated at 2 ohms I could connect my amp in either configuration. I started by bridging the amp and running the sub that way. The problem with that was that even when the gain on the amp was set to zero, it was pushing the sub way to hard. This is again bc I used speaker level inputs that are already amped a bit. You can try this and see how you like it but it was too much. If you decide to do it this way let me know and I can go over how to wire the sub up for 4 ohms.

I swapped out the configuration and ran a positive/negative from the 2 output channels of the amp to each coil of the sub. This is possible bc my amp could sustain a 2 ohm load on each channel. The magic of the DVC sub is that you can wire it in stereo like this.

This configuration yielded just the right results. The sub in that enclosure sounds PLENTY good even when I'm not running it its max potential. This is better bc you can adjust the gain on the amp up or down to get your desired power and not risk overheating the amp or blowing the sub.

Also I've heard others say they had better results running it stereo like that so do with that what you will.

Now to the part that SUCKED. After running the sub with the new amp I noticed a weird hissing/metallic sound. After about an hour of looking I realized it was an air leak.. since a sub box needs a full seal: no good.

I ended up having to unbolt the whole enclosure to get to the leak. The enclosure is made of a plastic shell with a backplate that are attached somehow. What I ended up doing was taking a tube of silicone caulk and sealing up the ENTIRE seam where the two pieces of plastic meet. And believe me. You have to do the whole thing. I had leaks all around.

Now this might have just been an issue only present in mine due to a defect or something. But i think it's more likely that the original box didn't come made to handle that type of power.

With that being said after installing the amp I saw a pretty bug jump in low end quality. But after sealing the box like I did, this thing is night and day. The lows are very rich and come through strong when needed. The bass blends like it should and comes strong when called for.

Now I know i just wrote alot. Don't be offended if I over explained. Just wanna be thorough. If you have any questions lemme know
Thanks so much for the detailed response!! Yes, I have the factory Alpine system and have done all of the PRS mods - tweeter mod, upgrade of dash and sound bar speakers to the Infiniti's and upgrade of subwoofer (the Pioneer subwoofer). Now just looking for a little more oomph out of the sub. A few follow-up questions for you:

1. Which amp did you go with? I'm thinking of using the Alpine MRV-M500 referenced earlier in this thread.
2. How did you mount the amp? I'm assuming screwed through the floor pan and then just put some silicon caulk on the underside where screws protrude?

I've already lines my sub enclosure with dynamat so really hoping I don't have the leaks like you did - will be a real PITA to deal with!!

Thanks again and in advance for all your assistance!
 

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Thanks so much for the detailed response!! Yes, I have the factory Alpine system and have done all of the PRS mods - tweeter mod, upgrade of dash and sound bar speakers to the Infiniti's and upgrade of subwoofer (the Pioneer subwoofer). Now just looking for a little more oomph out of the sub. A few follow-up questions for you:

1. Which amp did you go with? I'm thinking of using the Alpine MRV-M500 referenced earlier in this thread.
2. How did you mount the amp? I'm assuming screwed through the floor pan and then just put some silicon caulk on the underside where screws protrude?

I've already lines my sub enclosure with dynamat so really hoping I don't have the leaks like you did - will be a real PITA to deal with!!

Thanks again and in advance for all your assistance!
1. I used a Dual XPR82D. Its pretty cheap and can be bought at most advance auto parts stores. My goal with this was to be cheap but not too cheap. The Alpine amp you mentioned is a good amp. Keep in mind though its a mono amp so you wouldn't be able to wire it like I did on mine.

Also if you go with the Alpine, you're gonna need to get a line level converted for the inputs. With that power its gonna be strong even with the gain at 0.

2. I actually used velcro strips that I had. Idk where I got them but they're a special kind that can bond to carpet, metals, plastic etc.

I hope the dynamat seals you up! Making the seal made the difference between good and great sound for me. Good luck!
 
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