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Air bags, as Pressurized said. Any spring capable of dealing with that much weight is going to be overly stiff when you aren't putting that much weight on it. If you want springs, I would look at MetalCloak springs. They are multi-rate springs and they are better at coping with weight than most other springs. A set of MetalCloak 2.5" springs would be an option. But I think air bags are a better option. You can also get helper springs that take the place of the bumpstop jounces. They are sold by Timbren and help only when the Jeep is loaded down. But they are always there. Another lesser option would be Sumo Springs. MetalCloak has a version of them as well. They also take the place of the bumpstop jounces.
On a side note, how much bumpstop extension are you running up front. For a flipped draglink you usually need 3" of bumpstop extension. So most people don't run a flipped draglink for less than 3.5" of lift. If you don't have enough bumpstop extension at the right front corner you risk metal to metal contact when that corner is stuffed.
 

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Thanks guys. I ran Airlift bags on my Tundra with 3" lift for towing a boat and I was really happy with them, but I thought I'd heard that putting them on a jeep decreases flexibility off road?

I definitely like the fact that you can use the air springs only when you need them. But that being said, my current setup is too low even when I'm not towing... (Measuring against factory settings, I've determined that I have a 0.57" lift on the rear pax side and 0.96" lift on the drivers side (before setting the trailer). The front, in contrast is nearly 3" so the Jeep isn't really level, even without the trailer.

With respect to the front end setup, I had the track bar and tie rod/drag link installed by Synergy (Polyperformance) and at the time they told me I was "on the edge" of flipping the DL so they recommended flipping it. (they said if I had 2.5" or less they would not have flipped it, but since I was a touch over 3" they flipped it). They also installed the bump stops and I just measured them - they are 4"at the front. It sure looks like I don't have much room to flex downward! This is also part of the reason that leads me down the path of considering a different (3.5") lift, as I've never really been happy with the RK stuff that was on the Jeep when I bought it. (the only things left being the springs and the front sway bar links)

With regard to trailering, I've got that pretty well dialed. The trailer has brakes and the setup stops very well both on road and off (even with the stock calipers and rotors and OEM pads). I run 30-32 PSI regularly and increase that to 34 front/36 rear when towing. (but then air down both Jeep and trailer when off road). Its an incredibly capable combo
That is why you don't usually do a draglink flip at 2.5" of lift. You end up loosing suspension travel. You may be able to replace the 4" bumpstop extension with 3" bumpstop extensions, and that would add suspension travel up front. But you would want to flex the front suspension to make sure it clears with 3" of bumpstop.
Or you could go with more lift. But then you will likely find other issues. It is a slippery slope. Or you could simply remove the flipped draglink and extra bumpstop it requires. That would be the cheapest route. A flipped draglink just isn't required at 2.5" of lift.
I could see swapping the springs for MetalCloak 2.5" springs. If you go up to 3.5" springs you will be opening another can of worms, and further mods will likely be required. But that is up to you.
 

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Thanks. I’ve thought about just adding Teraflex spacers to the rear but I’ve never liked the way spacers “preload” the suspension.

I might consider that RK trick with 3.5” springs, but I honestly don’t think the RK stuff is well made. At least their finishes suck (rust and chip off very quickly).

I’m wondering if swapping out just the springs for a 3.5” AEV SC kit and then adding the AEV rear geometry bracket and track bar (and possibly Synergy LCAs) might be the way to go. I think the Bilsteins that RK spec’d with the 2.5” kit are the same as the ones they used to spec for the 3.5” kit…


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The AEV springs are decent, but not what I would call the best option for dealing with excessive weight. For that I would suggest the MetalCloak springs.
But, as has been mentioned, stiffer springs alone to deal with the additional weight may compromise the ride when not loaded down. Air bags would allow for extra weight capacity while not affecting the ride when not running heavy. Or helper springs would be somewhere in between.
 

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Thank you. I think I’ll just do that then. A set of Teraflex spacers. Probably 2” on the passenger side and 1.5” on the driver’s side, but I’ll measure. (I’m making that assumption since the rear is currently 0.5” and 1” whereas the front is at 3” from stock, so that should put the rear at 2.5” and even it out in both directions)

I ran spacers on my Gen2 Tundra for a while before swapping to Icon coil overs & control arms and I remember that the ride was HARSH with those spacers. Perhaps it’s a whole different game with IFS and strut/coil over suspensions…(?)


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Spacers do not change the spring rate. They only raise the ride height.
The advantage there is they don't increase the spring rate. The disadvantage there is they don't increase the spring rate. If you need more spring rate, they don't help with that.
They do what they do, and as long as you don't go crazy and run excessive amounts of spacer I really don't see a down side to them.
 

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I just pulled the shock and the sway bar and it only gave me another 1/4" of clearance between coils. (I've just barely got the tire off the ground, but my 5T floor jack is maxed out). Now I have maybe 1-1/8" of space between the coils. My god what a giant pain in the a** compared to how "easy" I thought this would be. I still cannot see how this is physically possible without some kind of coil separator. I feel like I'm trying to do a heart transplant through someone's rib cage...

Maybe these Rock Crawler springs have a tighter wind to them? (another reason to dislike them). I can just get the end with the nipple between the coils but there is no way on earth the thicker bottom end will fit through. I've been swearing at this thing for a good 45 minutes now. I'm about ready to go back to the plan of putting in different springs or spacers - I think that would be easier to accomplish...
Did you loosen the control arm bolts and trackbar bolts.
If the springs are multi-rate springs then the coils on one end are closer together than the coils on the other end.
Not sure why it is so important to fit the bags through the coils, for all the time it is taking you it would be faster to pull the springs and slide the bags in through the open end.
Sure, you could replace the springs if you want.
 
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