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Air bags... Contact Airlift at 800-248-0892 and get their recommendation for their Airlift 1000 bags to match your springs. You might have to get them some measurements. I've been running their bags now for 3 years and with 5psi in them, you don't know they are there, but pumped up to 30psi and it levels me right out and supports the weight.

View attachment 4526026
Looks to me that you mounted the airbags "upside down" from the instructions, from what I've heard this is the only way they will work correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Looks to me that you mounted the airbags "upside down" from the instructions, from what I've heard this is the only way they will work correctly.
Air nipple up or air nipple down? Which way is the “only way they will work correctly”? (Per instructions or “upside down”?


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Looks to me that you mounted the airbags "upside down" from the instructions, from what I've heard this is the only way they will work correctly.
I'm installed nipple up... It's funny, because the instructions don't actually say up or down. As I recall, there are a couple of images and one looks like the nipples are down and the other shows the air lines being attached to the top. I did not want to, and can't imagine why you would, put the air lines down on the axle. My bags are a little short is all, I asked about it and they said they would work fine, and they do.
 
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I'd think you'll want them nipple up cause then you can route the hoses through the openings at the top of the spring tower to avoid pinching them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I'd think you'll want them nipple up cause then you can route the hoses through the openings at the top of the spring tower to avoid pinching them.
That is certainly the way I've done it with other vehicles in the past. Interestingly, I just found this video, where at about 3:35 he says "to be sure the nipple is going down" so he's installing them "upside down".. hmm


I'm hoping I can droop the suspension enough to squish them through the spring coils.. (and safely support the frame). This is where having a 5 ton floor jack becomes worth the weight and space...
 

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That is certainly the way I've done it with other vehicles in the past. Interestingly, I just found this video, where at about 3:35 he says "to be sure the nipple is going down" so he's installing them "upside down".. hmm


I'm hoping I can droop the suspension enough to squish them through the spring coils.. (and safely support the frame). This is where having a 5 ton floor jack becomes worth the weight and space...
You can fit them in the spring... Just take your time squishing them. It's not easy, but once they are flattened out, put the nipple cap back on and they will stay flattened out.

Yes, routing the air line through the top is tight, but works perfectly.
 
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I'm installed nipple up... It's funny, because the instructions don't actually say up or down. As I recall, there are a couple of images and one looks like the nipples are down and the other shows the air lines being attached to the top. I did not want to, and can't imagine why you would, put the air lines down on the axle. My bags are a little short is all, I asked about it and they said they would work fine, and they do.
The instructions with the Firestone ones say nipple down. Sadly I did this, never got them to work corectly. Ended up going to a spacer/spring lift. I may go back and add an air bag later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
OK you guys. I just spent the last 45 minutes trying to stuff an airbag into my spring coil. There is NO way that thing is going inside that coil the way I'm doing it. I have lifted that side so that the tire is off the ground, but I have not disconnected the shock or the sway bar. Do I need to disconnect those to allow for additional droop? There is seriously only about 3/4" space between my coils when the rear wheel is fully drooped. No amount of four letter words seems to be helping. What am I doing wrong...?
 

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OK you guys. I just spent the last 45 minutes trying to stuff an airbag into my spring coil. There is NO way that thing is going inside that coil the way I'm doing it. I have lifted that side so that the tire is off the ground, but I have not disconnected the shock or the sway bar. Do I need to disconnect those to allow for additional droop? There is seriously only about 3/4" space between my coils when the rear wheel is fully drooped. No amount of four letter words seems to be helping. What am I doing wrong...?
sway bar will definitely need to be disconnected and good chance shock will too but try just 1 link on sway bar first. If you have stock control arms you may need to loosen the control arm bo=lts to let the metal sleeve in the clevite bushing to rotate freely. Remember to retighten control arm bolts to proper torque after the vehicle is back on ground at ride height.
 

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OK you guys. I just spent the last 45 minutes trying to stuff an airbag into my spring coil. There is NO way that thing is going inside that coil the way I'm doing it. I have lifted that side so that the tire is off the ground, but I have not disconnected the shock or the sway bar. Do I need to disconnect those to allow for additional droop? There is seriously only about 3/4" space between my coils when the rear wheel is fully drooped. No amount of four letter words seems to be helping. What am I doing wrong...?
Disconnect them, raise the body up as far as you can, deflate the bags and prevent them from reinflating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
I just pulled the shock and the sway bar and it only gave me another 1/4" of clearance between coils. (I've just barely got the tire off the ground, but my 5T floor jack is maxed out). Now I have maybe 1-1/8" of space between the coils. My god what a giant pain in the a** compared to how "easy" I thought this would be. I still cannot see how this is physically possible without some kind of coil separator. I feel like I'm trying to do a heart transplant through someone's rib cage...

Maybe these Rock Crawler springs have a tighter wind to them? (another reason to dislike them). I can just get the end with the nipple between the coils but there is no way on earth the thicker bottom end will fit through. I've been swearing at this thing for a good 45 minutes now. I'm about ready to go back to the plan of putting in different springs or spacers - I think that would be easier to accomplish...
 

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I just pulled the shock and the sway bar and it only gave me another 1/4" of clearance between coils. (I've just barely got the tire off the ground, but my 5T floor jack is maxed out). Now I have maybe 1-1/8" of space between the coils. My god what a giant pain in the a** compared to how "easy" I thought this would be. I still cannot see how this is physically possible without some kind of coil separator. I feel like I'm trying to do a heart transplant through someone's rib cage...

Maybe these Rock Crawler springs have a tighter wind to them? (another reason to dislike them). I can just get the end with the nipple between the coils but there is no way on earth the thicker bottom end will fit through. I've been swearing at this thing for a good 45 minutes now. I'm about ready to go back to the plan of putting in different springs or spacers - I think that would be easier to accomplish...
Did you loosen the control arm bolts and trackbar bolts.
If the springs are multi-rate springs then the coils on one end are closer together than the coils on the other end.
Not sure why it is so important to fit the bags through the coils, for all the time it is taking you it would be faster to pull the springs and slide the bags in through the open end.
Sure, you could replace the springs if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Did you loosen the control arm bolts and trackbar bolts.
If the springs are multi-rate springs then the coils on one end are closer together than the coils on the other end.
Not sure why it is so important to fit the bags through the coils, for all the time it is taking you it would be faster to pull the springs and slide the bags in through the open end.
Sure, you could replace the springs if you want.
At this point I think I am going to just pull the effing springs and put the bags in from the tops. Every YT video and instruction on these shows people just slipping them through the coils with some effort but not like what I’m experiencing. Ugh. I’m at the point where my diff breather pulled free and my abs line needs to be disconnected so I might as well just pull the dang springs. I wrongly assumed this would be a lot easier than it is and foolishly thought I’d be done and enjoying a cold beer on a Friday afternoon by now. :)

Looks like I’m gonna just set it aside and deal with it tomorrow morning.

Honestly I’ve removed snapped off head bolts that were less frustrating than this! Lol


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Disconnect the trackbar, disconnect the sway bar links, loosen up lower control arms, disconnect the shocks from the bottom, put 2 Jack's on the frame with wheels off, then droop the axel slowly. You will be able to take the spring out easily, slip the bags in and put everything back. Sway bar links and trackbar are prob the most time consuming items to deal with in the whole install.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yup that’s what I’m doing. Still required some muscle and soapy water to get those bags (deflated) down into the spring.





I’m gonna route the lines to behind the license plate and install the Schrader valve(s) in the license plate itself to make them easily accessible.

Now the question is whether to have them independent or tied together. Independent, I assume would allow once since to compress and send pressure to the other side when flexing but independent would allow me to correct my “JK Lean” by pumping up the passenger side a bit more. Hmm….
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
For what its worth (and for others in the future reading this thread) I did not have to disconnect either the control arms or track bar. I also already had brake line extensions so didn't need to undo the mounts for the hard lines. I DID however need to disconnect the e-locker connection on the rear diff, the diff breather tube, and the ABS wires for both sides.
 
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For what its worth (and for others in the future reading this thread) I did not have to disconnect either the control arms or track bar. I also already had brake line extensions so didn't need to undo the mounts for the hard lines. I DID however need to disconnect the e-locker connection on the rear diff, the diff breather tube, and the ABS wires for both sides.
I just got back on after a while... Hate to see you struggled with them. But I have a set of RK springs here and you're right, the gaps are not as large as the Mopar's I have for sure. Would absolutely make it more difficult.

I have mine on a tee and the valve is in the pinch seam below the back of the fender. Out of sight for all that don't know it's there...

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
I just got back on after a while... Hate to see you struggled with them. But I have a set of RK springs here and you're right, the gaps are not as large as the Mopar's I have for sure. Would absolutely make it more difficult.

I have mine on a tee and the valve is in the pinch seam below the back of the fender. Out of sight for all that don't know it's there...

View attachment 4526478
Out of curiosity, are you running the spacers at the top? They seem like they will slide around, get pinched between the coils and cause problems…

I just put it all together and realized I forgot the dang tubing clamps on the nipples. Duh. Now apart it has to all come again!


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I took my springs out and stuffed the bags in.





Oh, man. I'm sorry to have to be the first one to tell you this, but the Red ones don't work.. The have to be blue, green, or yellow.. /snark

Glad to see you FINALLY got this done. It's prebably the most painful task there is, right behind adding spacers to the top of the springs.
 
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