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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Vehicle: 2016 JK Unlimited Sport 32,000 miles.
3.73 gears
35" Tires
2.5" Lift

I found a great deal on some D44's (3.73) off a 2014 Rubicon with 38,000 miles for $400. Owner never took it off road and didn't know the value. He just wanted to get rid of them. I realize that it's direct bolt on which isn't my issue. My issue is that I am kind of OCD with keeping my installs clean and neat. The axles didn't come with any cables/wiring harnesses to go from the E-Locker to the interior of the Jeep.

I cannot find the necessary cables online, if anyone could provide a link to one.

Also, I understand the Rubicons have an indicator light on the dash to show when the lockers are turned on etc. I heard all Wrangler JKs have that light in the dash, but only the Rubicons have their CANBUS configured to activate the light when the Locker button is pushed.

I would like to have the indicator signal to show up somewhere on my non-Rubicon Jeep, instead of wiring it through the dash, having my CANBUS flashed as a "Rubicon" (if even possible) I would like to know if I can use a double lighted SPST ON/OFF switch. This switch looks like a standard toggle switch from OTRATTW that would have 2 lights. 1 light to show that the locker switch is on, and the other light to indicate the locker is actually on.

If anyone has done this, would the cable going from the indication plug have to go through the CANBUS/Onboard Computer? Or can I just directly wire it to the back of the switch?

P.S. would anyone have a link to this cable? Thanks!! :pullinghair::pullinghair:
 

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I am about to do this swap too next weekend. I was going to have a local shop wire them up, but if there is a plug and play option I might do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I doubt there is a plug and play option. You would probably have to get the wiring harness for the front and rear of the Rubicon. Don't forget that the transfer case has a part in this as it has to send the signal to the computer that it is in 4 Low and your transfer case does not have this.

You are correct that there are front and rear diff lock lights (inbetween the speedo and tach roughly on a line between the 85 MPH mark and 1250 RPM mark. On non-Rubicons I don't think they even light up on the initial test when starting. They are different from the 4WD light over the temperaure gauge. There may even be anohter control module to control the lockers and sway bar disconnect.
 

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Quadratec apparently used to sell the part. No one else seems to, so Mopar may have stopped selling them to the public. They still sell the factory switch panel for non-Rubicons so I don't see why they wouldn't offer a harness.

Quadratec's old product page:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52446_111.htm

And the accompanying factory add-on switches:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52446_110.htm

I think your best bet will be to locate a junked Rubicon and swipe the entire chassis harness...


Use car-part.com to search for parts at wreckers.

A quick search shows that there are a few places that have various harnesses, but you'd have to investigate to see if they have what you need. None of them seem to specifically refer to being from a Rubicon.

Or....

Found some part numbers:
https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com...odel=15995&modelYear=2016&ukey_category=22693

Your guess is as good as mine. No clue which one you need.
 
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In some ways I envy you guys. I'm an electronics tech, not a mechanic. I don't even like mechanical work. But sometimes I wish I was better at it.

My solution was different. Great job, great pay, military retirement on top of that..... I paid CASH for a JKU-R Hard Rock. It came with all that shit done already. Could I have saved some $$$$. Maybe. But I took it wheeling rather than wrenching the very next weekend. And I felt sorry for my salesman. I did my homework, and he price-matched a sweet deal out of state.

Bottom line - if it makes you happy, that's all that matters. But like you, I like clean and neat wiring. Do the factory harness if you can.

Mike -- El Paso, Texas.
 

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I'm curious how the swap went for you. Any updates?
I did mine about 2 weeks ago. It was a direct replacement. I upgraded some of the bolts to grade 8 in the process. But is was truly plug and play. Toughest part is moving the axles around. I bought 10 dollar harbor freight dollies to do it
 

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I did mine about 2 weeks ago. It was a direct replacement. I upgraded some of the bolts to grade 8 in the process. But is was truly plug and play. Toughest part is moving the axles around. I bought 10 dollar harbor freight dollies to do it
Awesome. Congrats! I threw in a couple grade 8s myself. Yeah, i was glad that deadlifts are part of my regular workout routine while i was lugging those axles around ha!

What was involved in wiring up the locker? You don't have a Rubicon correct? Which wiring harness, which switches / relays etc? I still have to figure this part out.
 

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Awesome. Congrats! I threw in a couple grade 8s myself. Yeah, i was glad that deadlifts are part of my regular workout routine while i was lugging those axles around ha!

What was involved in wiring up the locker? You don't have a Rubicon correct? Which wiring harness, which switches / relays etc? I still have to figure this part out.
I am an idiot when it comes to wiring up things like that. Lights and stuff are fine, so I am having a local off road shop do it. He had to order the plugs for the stock locker connections. he will then wire the power to the first switch on my SPOD for power, 2nd switch for front, and 3rd for rear. It is going to cost me about 300, but I would rather have a pro do it incase there are any issues
 

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I am planning on doing something similar. I did a axle swap just yesterday and bought a rubicon factory switch to do the wiring to. Like RapidDissent said, Quadratec doesn't carry the wiring chassis anymore for some reason so I had my local jeep garage look up the part number needed for the wiring chassis for a 2016 rubicon. The part number is 68271333AC, I am not sure if its going to work or not but I am going to give it a try. I am going to take it to the garage and see if they can attach the harness and flash the computer.

Also most places like moparpartsonline or moparpartsoverstock do not accept returns on wiring, just an FYI. Hope this helps!
 

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I put Rubicon D44's on my 2012 sport. Installed rocker switches on the A pillar (front and rear) along with a green LED for each switch for locker status. Pretty simple wiring. The Rubi elocker has two connectors and you will need the connectors or you will have to buy the replacement cable and cut off the connectors. With the connectors its a simple 12v wiring - you power the activation switch and the led comes on when locked. The wiring diagram is available on line but the key is to have the connectors.

Works great. I totally beefed my axles with RCV's, sleeves and trussing and have had zero problems.
 

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Here's how I wired mine.
The lettering on the lower part of the switch is controlled by the vehicle lights, when the lockers actuate, the upper part of the switch illuminates. I wired in the locker power switch as a safety.


 

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I just did this and yes you can buy the plugs and wire it up fairly cheaply. Part number 68148098AA is for the locker and this is all you really need but if you want to wire up the switch to indicate when it is actually locked you will need part number 05017117AA is for the sensor. I just wired mine up today and works great.
 

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I also did an axle swap, fully built Rubicon's into my Sport. I already had an ARB onboard air compressor, so I used their wiring harness and ran wires to the dash and A-pillar (4) switches, I also added a winch power disconnect.
 

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For sensor wire connector, if your dealer can not find the connector, you can use a Wells 898 kit.
This plug us used on AC compressors, egr valves and a lot of other things on domestic, and imported autos.
here's the Well kit:
 

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I definitely wouldn't bother connecting them to the jeep's computer in a non-Rubicon. You'll have the flexibility of being able to lock them whenever you want if you wire them directly. You can also just wire the locker as not wiring the sensor won't affect operation of the lockers.
 
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