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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of situations that I think my sway bar may have hurt/helped (with modification).

Issue number 1:

So, I've got a JK sport, and I've made a variety of mods to it (lift 2.5", bumpers/winch, wheels 33x12.5, etc.).

A little over a week ago, I went around the gravel pit nearby, and had a friend take a handful of pictures (she's a hobby photographer).

While attempting to get a decent shot, I noticed my rear wheel was very briefly rubbing on my fender (stock).

I had my passenger front on a mound of dirt, and my rear wheels both on the ground. My rear driver was the one nearly rubbing the fender.

a) Would it be correct in saying that having sway bar disconnects (front, rear, both), would reduce this potential issue?
b) If so, which would be a better option (front/rear/both)?
c) Does anyone suggest the quick-disconnect tie rods?

I guess I'd be curious to see examples of off-roading with sway bars disconnected and the limits to their "safe" function while not connected.

Issue number 2:

I was out four wheeling in my JK, and once I was finished, I noticed my steering was acting really weird. Thus, I got out after stopping, and took a look underneath.

What I found was my sway bar had flexed, and pivoted downwards, to the point of contacting my drag link.

I've got a lifted suspension, but I never modified the sway bar/tie rods.

I feel like had I installed longer tie rods, I would not have run into this situation.

a) If this is the case, is there a size of tie rod that would be suggested to prevent this from happening on my current setup?
 

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Couple of things for you. First Rear Sway bar is not very beefy so disconnected doesn't gain much, and usually will hurt more than help. So most people do not have a rear disconnect... Front is very helpful and there are many choices out there for this.

You absolutely need longer front with a 2.5 lift. At minimum move your rears to the front and buy new rears. For 2.5" stock rear length is good enough on front and get some Rubicon Express 1157 on the rears. They are really inexpensive.
 

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Having disconnects (or at least disconnecting the bolts of OEM ones) in the front is almost a must offroading and if you had had the front disonnected you would have had more flex up front which would have put less strain on the rear and *might have kept it from rubbing (but then you may have had rubbing in the front :) ). The only sure fire way to prevent rubbing is adding bumpstop (hockey pucks work well) or trimming the fenders.

You want your swaybar links to be the right length for on road performance and safety. You want your swaybar level with the ground while parked on level ground. As stumblinghorse said, the rears would work well with your lift in the front. I personally picked up an extra pair of rears for $10 and have that length in front and rear (the rear swaybar is quite flexible and doesn't really need longer ones).

I've never seen a swaybar make contact with a drag link, but maybe once you get the rest of the geometry aligned it will alleviate that as well. Good luck and happy wheeling!
 

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A couple of situations that I think my sway bar may have hurt/helped (with modification).

Issue number 1:

So, I've got a JK sport, and I've made a variety of mods to it (lift 2.5", bumpers/winch, wheels 33x12.5, etc.).

A little over a week ago, I went around the gravel pit nearby, and had a friend take a handful of pictures (she's a hobby photographer).

While attempting to get a decent shot, I noticed my rear wheel was very briefly rubbing on my fender (stock).

I had my passenger front on a mound of dirt, and my rear wheels both on the ground. My rear driver was the one nearly rubbing the fender.

a) Would it be correct in saying that having sway bar disconnects (front, rear, both), would reduce this potential issue?
b) If so, which would be a better option (front/rear/both)?
c) Does anyone suggest the quick-disconnect tie rods?

I guess I'd be curious to see examples of off-roading with sway bars disconnected and the limits to their "safe" function while not connected.

Issue number 2:

I was out four wheeling in my JK, and once I was finished, I noticed my steering was acting really weird. Thus, I got out after stopping, and took a look underneath.

What I found was my sway bar had flexed, and pivoted downwards, to the point of contacting my drag link.

I've got a lifted suspension, but I never modified the sway bar/tie rods.

I feel like had I installed longer tie rods, I would not have run into this situation.

a) If this is the case, is there a size of tie rod that would be suggested to prevent this from happening on my current setup?

Similar thing happened to a friend of mine 2.5" lift with no discos and bent the sway bar tab on the axle.
 
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