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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have installed a pair of LED tail lights, and they do NOT hyperflash. However, when I unlock, open or close any door, the rear right light flashes for half a second (only the rear right). Super weird. Kinda looks like the car is letting go of some electricity through the light, or even static (why would it flash when closing a door ?). I tried another brand of LED tail lights and they do the same. I tried to reground from directly the light harness, still happens. I tried different resistors, still happens.

Anyone has an idea of why this is happening ? Thanks ! I am slightly going insane.
 

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2006 TJ Rubicon, 4.0, automatic
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If you smack the side of the Jeep can that make the lights flash too? If so, it might be the insulation is worn off somewhere causing a short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you smack the side of the Jeep can that make the lights flash too? If so, it might be the insulation is worn off somewhere causing a short.
I did.. And I felt bad afterwards. Had to say i'm sorry. Also, didn't flash once as I was doing it....

Something I realized too, is that once it does it, it doesn't do it repeatedly -- if I keep the door shut for 20 seconds, it will reflash again; kinda like there's an energy buildup ?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Very odd. Anything else affect or cause the flashing?
Odd you say. I am going insane !

Maybe there's something to do with the indoor light or circuit ? I.e. when I open, close, unlock or lock, the indoor light is triggered as well...

Other than that, there is nothing that affects or cause the flashing....

However, I did switch all the front lights as well (headlights, turn lights and fender lights to LEDs), and because of DRLs I had to buy the PROCAL and set the DRL setting to off, and circuit the DRL wires from the front LEDs to the fusebox. I am 99% sure that job is perfect, I took the time to learn and solder all the connections -- although I could unplug them from the fusebox tmr and see if the read still flashes...
 

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Mine has been doing the same thing for five+ years now. I have the Spyder sequential taillights. Just passenger rear does it. Most be something with the canbus and the leds requiring such little power. It hasn't affected anything negatively so I let it be. .
 

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My JK does that with the Metalcloak LED tail lights and some ballast resistor I added years ago. It doesn't seem to bother anything and I'm used to it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If these are LEDs there is a ballast resistor. Replace with one about 10 Ohms bigger, or just add a 10 Ohm 40-50W resistor in series to the provided one
Wondering if you could elaborate on this -- i'm a noob when it comes to electronic terms ;)

Any way you could tell me exactly what to attach and where on these : AUDEXEN LED Tail Lights Compatible with Jeep Wrangler JK JKU 2007-2018, Unique"C" Shaped Design Smoked Lens, 20W Reverse Lights, Built-in EMC, DOT Compliant, 2 PCS, Tail Light Assemblies - Amazon Canada

I say that because they already have built in EMC... So... unsure of where and how powerfull I need to add resistance...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mine has been doing the same thing for five+ years now. I have the Spyder sequential taillights. Just passenger rear does it. Most be something with the canbus and the leds requiring such little power. It hasn't affected anything negatively so I let it be. .
Well I do feel a little better knowing that it is somewhat of a popular problem and I didn't f*-up my connections... Although it is so frustrating having that red flash when you close the tailgate...
 

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Well I do feel a little better knowing that it is somewhat of a popular problem and I didn't f*-up my connections... Although it is so frustrating having that red flash when you close the tailgate...
Nope very common from a google search with no known/found correction. One person stated the original lights did it also, but barely visible being incandescent. I only notice it if a person gets into the jeep before me as I walk up to it from behind. The CANBUS does all kinds of weird things.
 

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Wondering if you could elaborate on this -- i'm a noob when it comes to electronic terms ;)
LEDs draw only a little current compared to a conventional bulb. The circuitry inside the TIPM (what controls all the lighting) is not designed for LEDs. It needs
to "see" the resistance (and the current draw) in order to be happy. Otherwise you have a hyperflash condition. The same is for the built-in lamp outage monitoring
function. Your single flash is probably a voltage spike generated by the TIPM when waking up. The spike is very short and low on current, so with a conventional bulb
there is not enough current or time for the flash to be visible. With LEDs it is enough for these to iluminate.
The ones from amazon should have an internal 20 Ohm ballast. It is either built inside the housing or is attached to the lamp wiring. Square thing with 2 wires.
One wire to the ground, other to the turn signal lead. The final ballast resistance varies from 10 to approx 30 Ohms depending on the internal design.
I do not see the internals of your light so you need to try what value is good for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
LEDs draw only a little current compared to a conventional bulb. The circuitry inside the TIPM (what controls all the lighting) is not designed for LEDs. It needs
to "see" the resistance (and the current draw) in order to be happy. Otherwise you have a hyperflash condition. The same is for the built-in lamp outage monitoring
function. Your single flash is probably a voltage spike generated by the TIPM when waking up. The spike is very short and low on current, so with a conventional bulb
there is not enough current or time for the flash to be visible. With LEDs it is enough for these to iluminate.
The ones from amazon should have an internal 20 Ohm ballast. It is either built inside the housing or is attached to the lamp wiring. Square thing with 2 wires.
One wire to the ground, other to the turn signal lead. The final ballast resistance varies from 10 to approx 30 Ohms depending on the internal design.
I do not see the internals of your light so you need to try what value is good for you.
Thanks for the reply !

There is an pretty badass electronics store nearby that have pretty much everything that exists -- I'll go there and ask for resistors. You mentioned earlier 40-50W resistors ? I guess I can try some 30 ohm, 20 ohm and another 10 ohm...

Another question is that I understand the hyperflashing required connecting the resistors to the turn signal and ground, but in my case, its every LED that lights up -- the stopping, DRL and turn signal... Hope I won't need to install 3 resistors... lmao.. But will if I have to.
 

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Look for something like this. And it is good to aatach it to a metal surface, it gets pretty hot. You can use the tabs and small screws, but there is not much room
to drill a hole inside the tailamp opening. I just used a hose clamp on mine and clamped it to the inner quarter panel brace, just behind the tallight
The resistance value will be a hit/miss. I have no idea how YOUR lights are built, so without some measurements i have no clue what value you need.
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