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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody have any experience or advice for taking my 3" body lift down to a 1-1/4?

I referenced the installation instructions on this website:
http://www.roughcountry.com/install/1157.pdf

It looks like there are several brackets and other stuff that I will need. I was thinking this would be an easy job, just cut the spacer blocks down from 3" to 1-1/4" and put them back in. Now I'm thinking it may be more involved and I may actually need to buy a 1-1/4" BL instead of being able to reuse my 3" BL.

Thanks,
John
 

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Motorized toy collector
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Buying a new 1.25" body lift to replace the 3" is the way to go, IMO.

It will have all the correct length bolts, transfer case linkage bracket for the stock linkage, and the correct length grill supports.

Some kits re-use the stock body support bushings and fit over them, like the JKS body lift I have.

Make sure you know what will work with your Jeep before you buy anything.

Good luck with your project.:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Buying a new 1.25" body lift to replace the 3" is the way to go, IMO.

It will have all the correct length bolts, transfer case linkage bracket for the stock linkage, and the correct length grill supports.

Some kits re-use the stock body support bushings and fit over them, like the JKS body lift I have.

Make sure you know what will work with your Jeep before you buy anything.

Good luck with your project.:thumb:
Thanks, I guess it won't be a free project after all huh? Any brand recommendation? Any place to get a good price on one?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you think I could cut the ones I have down just to check to see if I need a 2" or if I can (hopefully) go down to 1.25" or 1"? Would it jack something up?
 

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Motorized toy collector
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Thanks, I guess it won't be a free project after all huh? Any brand recommendation? Any place to get a good price on one?

Thanks
IDK. I installed my JKS body lift many years ago. I can't even remember where I bought it from.

I know Savvy stuff is all TJ's, designed by guys that run TJ's, and made in the USA. Everything I have bought from them has been well thought out, and top notch. I have not seen there body lift in person though, I've been buying other stuff.

Maybe someone else with the same sick Jeep disease will chime in with more recommendations.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Buying a new 1.25" body lift to replace the 3" is the way to go, IMO.

It will have all the correct length bolts, transfer case linkage bracket for the stock linkage, and the correct length grill supports.

Some kits re-use the stock body support bushings and fit over them, like the JKS body lift I have.

Make sure you know what will work with your Jeep before you buy anything.

Good luck with your project.:thumb:
I got into it more tonight and removed one side of the body lift. Whoever did this the first time didn't do the most thorough job, two missing spacers (the ones to the inside of frame on the rear), instead of using a bracket to lower the fan shroud they just cut the bottom out of the shroud, no motor mount lift. Hopefully I don't run into a lot of home made 'fixes' on this thing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stuck

Ok guys, before lowering the jeep down from a 3" BL to a 1-1/4" BL I removed the transfer case lowering bracket so it wouldn't bind after lowering. I drilled new mounting holes in the bracket that are 1-3/4" lower than the older ones. BUT...now that I've finished the lowering job I can't get the flipping linkage to go back into the bracket.

After struggling for awhile I got some advice to drop the skid plate to have more room to work. When I did that I noticed that the transmission and exhaust dropped significantly (guess 2-3 inches). Now I'm in the same boat as I was before, not being able to connect the linkage to the bracket.

I'm pretty concerned about the transmission dropping so far, can anybody comment on this being normal or not? Where are the trans mounts/motor mounts (a diagram would be awesome)?
 

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Pics of bracket? What BL did you end up with? Did it come with it's own bracket? I am confused on the "holes drilled lower in the bracket". If you are lowering the body from what it was, you should need the holes drilled 1-3/4" higher on the bracket that mounts to the body. Maybe you meant to type the other way.

Anyway, the main problem is the crummy stock linkage with it's marriage of the body and the TC with an inferior system. Your best bet is to sever that tie. They make linkage re locator brackets. Novak cable shifter is the best. I bought an Advanced Adapters linkage relocator bracket years ago before the Novak came out.
It was only about $34 IIRC. The only problem with this bracket is if you decide to do a tummy tuck later, you will have to make room for it by pounding on you tranny tunnel with a BFH. It also requires trimming modifications with some transmissions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pics of bracket? What BL did you end up with? Did it come with it's own bracket? I am confused on the "holes drilled lower in the bracket". If you are lowering the body from what it was, you should need the holes drilled 1-3/4" higher on the bracket that mounts to the body. Maybe you meant to type the other way.

Anyway, the main problem is the crummy stock linkage with it's marriage of the body and the TC with an inferior system. Your best bet is to sever that tie. They make linkage re locator brackets. Novak cable shifter is the best. I bought an Advanced Adapters linkage relocator bracket years ago before the Novak came out.
It was only about $34 IIRC. The only problem with this bracket is if you decide to do a tummy tuck later, you will have to make room for it by pounding on you tranny tunnel with a BFH. It also requires trimming modifications with some transmissions.

I don't have pics of the bracket with me but I can take some, I made a rough model based on my memory of what the bracket looks like. I drilled the holes lower which essentially made the bracket shorter to account for the shorter BL.

I have no clue what you are talking about with regards to the linkage replacement but...i agree that the stock ones are junky and that different ones would be better. I'll see if I can find what you are talking about. If you have a specific link that'd be awesome.
 

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the bracket pic
Ok, I see it now. That should work...in theory...aside from the crappy stock linkage issue. Here is a link to the bracket that I bought. Still just $34 if you are on a budget. This should fix your problem. But, like mentioned earlier, the Novak cable shifter is the best, but it is way more expensive.

(P/N 715542) | Advance Adapters
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, I see it now. That should work...in theory...aside from the crappy stock linkage issue. Here is a link to the bracket that I bought. Still just $34 if you are on a budget. This should fix your problem. But, like mentioned earlier, the Novak cable shifter is the best, but it is way more expensive.

(P/N 715542) | Advance Adapters
Great, thanks a lot for the link! I think I have a better understanding today than I did last night of the linkage so I'll see what I figure out while I'm under there again.
 
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