Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 20 of 52 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey y'all!! First off; great forum! Recently bought a 93 yj 2.5 with 68k.....meat and potatoes; 31-10.50r15's and bullet hole wheels.....and rust issues.... 2" lift in the box on standby for just a little added clearance, staying with 31's to spare the squirrel more grunting than necessary!! Started the cutting process on the body today and hopefully patch it and stitch it up tomorrow. Same old places most people seem to have issues; rear frame, roll bar bases and side panels just under the door hinges. I'll post pics as I go and hopefully the T-Rex for the tub will make any unprofessional parts look just fine!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Alright! Side panel should be addressed today.....rust converter....rustoleum.....metal patch.....then welding said patch. Swung by Galyon Fab in Athens today and having a stinger bent for the front bumper and picked up the roll bars I'll be using to splice into mine to get rid of the rust there, then wear mine and my kids elbows and shoulders out sanding the pan to get it ready for T-Rex!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Going for frame rust around the rear right shackle today and 2" body lift if I have the time....pics to follow. Found a frame at a local junkyard and the plan was to splice way ahead of the rust issue but......he was a little unreasonable on the price so I bought the $20 patch kit off eBay....it's metal so if later on it craps out I can always fix it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ah! I'm also using Krud Kutter rust converter on any rusty spot.....newly fab'd bumper......any little rusty places in the tub....wherever. really like it so far. In all fairness, everywhere I'm using it is places that will be lined so the rougher texture of the finish is a plus for my application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Alright folks.....dropping the tank is a pain in the kiester.....and if you're able; and have the same rust issues I have, a frame splice right in front of the rear wheels would be easier in hindsight....but....here goes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Whew......wow. Jeeps are awesome little vehicles, no doubt but dang....they're still a dodge through and through: bodies and frames not meant to last
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The frame repair kit worked well, just time consuming is all. The worst part of the whole ordeal is dropping and re-installing the gas tank. Gonna go ahead and put new fuel lines/filler neck hose on there while it's down and try to rustoleum all I can get to and hope for the best. Isn't looking like I'll have enough hours today to tackle the lift kit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Side note:

In the event the tank has to be dropped again, there will be a hole cut into the pan for access to the fuel lines
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Same clown that jacked the frame price on me figured he'd make up his loss on a set of bent roll bars soooooo.....metal warehouse, here I come for pipe pieces.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Alright y'all. Ooo-Rahh!! To all our fallen brothers! Tomorrow I tackle the body lift. Had thought about tube fenders but figured with 31's it would look....well....fake off-road.....so I'm just going to trim the stock flares a touch and call it good. I like the stock look of my jeep and there's no sense in getting ridiculous (spending wise or looks wise) until/unless the time comes that I'm ready for some 33's. Pictures soon to follow!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
And to anyone reading I'd like some feedback on one issue: the rust at the base of the roll bar.....I'm going to have to re-plate and re-pipe about 6" at the bottom. The floor pan is awful around the bolt holes so I'm thinking 'pipe welded to pipe, then pipe to floor plate, floor plate to floor pan' ....using the flat steel at the bottom of the roll bar to patch the rusted tub. Anyone see a negative OTHER than inability to unbolt the roll bar? The bolt holes are rusted terrible anyway sooo....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
And to anyone reading I'd like some feedback on one issue: the rust at the base of the roll bar.....I'm going to have to re-plate and re-pipe about 6" at the bottom. The floor pan is awful around the bolt holes so I'm thinking 'pipe welded to pipe, then pipe to floor plate, floor plate to floor pan' ....using the flat steel at the bottom of the roll bar to patch the rusted tub. Anyone see a negative OTHER than inability to unbolt the roll bar? The bolt holes are rusted terrible anyway sooo....
Sounds fine but I'd defiantly recommend installing in a bolt-in fashion.

Also no fender flares and tube fenders up front with 2" lift and 235/85-16 (32x9.50) tires would be sick. Thats the direction I plan to eventually go with mine. Just having a hard time letting go of my SOA.
 
1 - 20 of 52 Posts
Top