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I know most people don't like or even wince at the idea of a body lift. But I was wondering if anyone is running or knows someone running the Teraflex 1.25" body lift?

At 1.25" I wouldn't think there would be a lot of problem with looks as compared to some others I have seen.
 

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I know most people don't like or even wince at the idea of a body lift. But I was wondering if anyone is running or knows someone running the Teraflex 1.25" body lift?

At 1.25" I wouldn't think there would be a lot of problem with looks as compared to some others I have seen.
Meh...
Not at 1.25 which is generally safe.
 

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I would wince if you are planning to do that instead of a suspension lift first.
I've had the Rough Country 1.25" body lift on for the last 1 1/2 years along with my original 2.5'' suspension lift.
Generally nobody can even tell that there's a BL on my jeep unless you stick your head under the wheel wells. I liked the RC because it came with the rear bumper correction brackets that relocate the bumper to higher so as to avoid a gap.
The brackets can be purchased seperatly if the TF kit doesn't come with them.
I'm currently running 33'' tire and plan to move up to 35s next. My current suspension rides like factory so I didn't want to F it up my moving over 3"" of suspension lift and getting into UCAs, LCAs etc. The BL sould give me enough clearence to flex out some 35s.
Here's a few pics. I have more on my profile garage.
 

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Back before I came to work at Teraflex I actually owned my own shop. We only ever installed 2 JK body lifts, but with the addition of the pinch seam to the body it covers up a lot of the gap that would otherwise be there. If you didn't know what you were looking for you wouldn't really notice it. As others have said this is a great addition to get a little more tire clearance but keep the majority of the weight low like in a LCG build.
 

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I have been looking at the TF body lift as well, but have been a bit hesitant on pulling the trigger as I have a 6 spd and read that it will affect the shifter. Any thoughts or ideas?
 

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This can be correct. Some modification to the shift boot may be required so that the shifter doesn't get popped out of gear by it.
 

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I have been looking at the TF body lift as well, but have been a bit hesitant on pulling the trigger as I have a 6 spd and read that it will affect the shifter. Any thoughts or ideas?
This can be correct. Some modification to the shift boot may be required so that the shifter doesn't get popped out of gear by it.
You actually need to modify more than that for all the gears to engage correctly. And if the teraflex does not come with the shifter extension, you will need one, otherwise you will have to permanently run with a hole in the inner shifter boot or without inner boot at all. Because it has a screw, where a clip retains it in place, if no extension is used, the boot will hit the screw on 2,4,6 gears before even engaging, simply because clearance is gone when the boot is on.

Parts that need modification:
Get a 1.25 inch thick (or whatever the height of the BL is) and 7 1/4 inch in diameter piece of cross link polyethylene foam, this will be used to fill the gap between the stock transmission-body seal and the body, so as to get the "sealing" back. No water, heat or other elements getting into the cabin or under the inner shift boot. Not to mention it helps greatly in reducing noise from the transmission and engine compared to using the inner boot itself. Otherwise, you will have a hole, literally a hole in the body for anything to come through.

Inner shifter boot, because its a rubber boot attached to a plastic ring at the bottom, the boot needs to be cut, the ring trimmed down until you can shift to 2,4,6,R without it touching the hard plastic and preventing full engagement, it will still shift on those gears, but any pot hole, it may pop out of gear. After its trimmed down, you need to reglue the boot with epoxy to the trimmed ring.

Before finally putting the inner boot, you have the option to add even more insulation between the seal and the boot. It has to be a soft material, like the rolls sold at home depot that have denim attached to foil. Just make sure its not fiberglass (health hazard) or anything hard otherwise it will hinder the boots movement.

The inner console needs to be trimmed if using the shifter extension, so the inner boot does not contact during imperfect roads.

The outer shifter boot needs to have the left clip on the front, that holds it to the outer console cover and to the inner console, cut. So you can shift in to 1st and 3rd with no problems, otherwise, it will prevent complete engagement of the shifter. It will still shift, but any pot hole, it may pop out of gear.

The inner console needs to be trimmed a bit around where the left clip was supposed to "clip on" to. So the shifter does not contact it and prevent it from having a hole made due to friction.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. That is a wealth of info gsn. Now that I know what it entails I think I know where to go from here. Thanks all!
 

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You actually need to modify more than that for all the gears to engage correctly. And if the teraflex does not come with the shifter extension, you will need one, otherwise you will have to permanently run with a hole in the inner shifter boot or without inner boot at all. Because it has a screw, where a clip retains it in place, if no extension is used, the boot will hit the screw on 2,4,6 gears before even engaging, simply because clearance is gone when the boot is on.

Parts that need modification:
Get a 1.25 inch thick (or whatever the height of the BL is) and 7 1/4 inch in diameter piece of cross link polyethylene foam, this will be used to fill the gap between the stock transmission-body seal and the body, so as to get the "sealing" back. No water, heat or other elements getting into the cabin or under the inner shift boot. Not to mention it helps greatly in reducing noise from the transmission and engine compared to using the inner boot itself. Otherwise, you will have a hole, literally a hole in the body for anything to come through.

Inner shifter boot, because its a rubber boot attached to a plastic ring at the bottom, the boot needs to be cut, the ring trimmed down until you can shift to 2,4,6,R without it touching the hard plastic and preventing full engagement, it will still shift on those gears, but any pot hole, it may pop out of gear. After its trimmed down, you need to reglue the boot with epoxy to the trimmed ring.

Before finally putting the inner boot, you have the option to add even more insulation between the seal and the boot. It has to be a soft material, like the rolls sold at home depot that have denim attached to foil. Just make sure its not fiberglass (health hazard) or anything hard otherwise it will hinder the boots movement.

The inner console needs to be trimmed if using the shifter extension, so the inner boot does not contact during imperfect roads.

The outer shifter boot needs to have the left clip on the front, that holds it to the outer console cover and to the inner console, cut. So you can shift in to 1st and 3rd with no problems, otherwise, it will prevent complete engagement of the shifter. It will still shift, but any pot hole, it may pop out of gear.

The inner console needs to be trimmed a bit around where the left clip was supposed to "clip on" to. So the shifter does not contact it and prevent it from having a hole made due to friction.
2012 and above have a different outer boot that may not have to be trimmed. I did a 1.25 bl today and am running without the inner boot because I couldnt figure out how to trim it properly- even with rough country's adapter I couldnt get into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or reverse.

Any videos on trimming the inner boot out there? I really want to get this fixed.
 

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2012 and above have a different outer boot that may not have to be trimmed. I did a 1.25 bl today and am running without the inner boot because I couldnt figure out how to trim it properly- even with rough country's adapter I couldnt get into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or reverse.

Any videos on trimming the inner boot out there? I really want to get this fixed.
I have a 2012. My suggestions are for 2012s and possibly 2012+. You cant shift into 2,4,6,R because the inner boot is contacting its plastic base.

The outer boot needs to have the left clip cut off when the inner is on. No inner, it does not contact the clips or console (at least not as much compared to having the boot), thus no trimming.

Whenever I get the chance, I can get you some pictures of cutting marks of an inner boot I have, from the inside and the outside. You have to cut the boot, trim the plastic base, then re-glue the boot to the trimmed base with epoxy or something that will bond hard, that means, no tapes, no super glue, no rtv silicone or plastic repair glues.

If you just put the inner (without putting outer or console on) and try to shift, you can see where it is contacting the base and it will give you more or less an idea of what needs to be trimmed.
 

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I have a 2012. My suggestions are for 2012s and possibly 2012+. You cant shift into 2,4,6,R because the inner boot is contacting its plastic base.

The outer boot needs to have the left clip cut off when the inner is on. No inner, it does not contact the clips or console (at least not as much compared to having the boot), thus no trimming.

Whenever I get the chance, I can get you some pictures of cutting marks of an inner boot I have, from the inside and the outside. You have to cut the boot, trim the plastic base, then re-glue the boot to the trimmed base with epoxy or something that will bond hard, that means, no tapes, no super glue, no rtv silicone or plastic repair glues.

If you just put the inner (without putting outer or console on) and try to shift, you can see where it is contacting the base and it will give you more or less an idea of what needs to be trimmed.
Thanks for clarifying that. Would really appreciate any pics / help; hoping to fix this ASAP.
 

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Thanks for clarifying that. Would really appreciate any pics / help; hoping to fix this ASAP.
Here is a mediafire folder with all the pictures, inner boot
Excuse the hole in the boot, it was a sacrifice I did so I could see how it fitted and where I needed to cut or trim. But the important part is still there.

"1 boundary" shoes where the rubber and plastic meet, which is where you will cut to separate it.

"2 front cut" shows more or less where you will cut with a knife

3 trims, show kind of where you have to trim the plastic. Trim it well enough to be able to shift, so test fit as you trim, and trim slow. If you trim too much or in the wrong direction, you may put a hole on the plastic. If you do, just cover it with tape from below, put epoxy and put tape over it.

Dont worry if you screw up, you can get that inner boot at any dealership or online. This is the part #,
52060165AE

Here is a video of the cut, the last few seconds shows how you are going to glue it back to the plastic base with epoxy, where I pushed the rubber down so the it touched the plastic.
Video

That is how I did it, if you find another way to cut and glue back then thats fine, the important part is trimming the plastic. Keep in mind you need to keep using the RC shifter adapter/extension.
 

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Here is a mediafire folder with all the pictures, inner boot
Excuse the hole in the boot, it was a sacrifice I did so I could see how it fitted and where I needed to cut or trim. But the important part is still there.

"1 boundary" shoes where the rubber and plastic meet, which is where you will cut to separate it.

"2 front cut" shows more or less where you will cut with a knife

3 trims, show kind of where you have to trim the plastic. Trim it well enough to be able to shift, so test fit as you trim, and trim slow. If you trim too much or in the wrong direction, you may put a hole on the plastic. If you do, just cover it with tape from below, put epoxy and put tape over it.

Dont worry if you screw up, you can get that inner boot at any dealership or online. This is the part #, 52060165AE

Here is a video of the cut, the last few seconds shows how you are going to glue it back to the plastic base with epoxy, where I pushed the rubber down so the it touched the plastic. Video

That is how I did it, if you find another way to cut and glue back then thats fine, the important part is trimming the plastic. Keep in mind you need to keep using the RC shifter adapter/extension.
Cant teell you how much this appreciated. I've got in-laws here this weekend but will try to sneak in some time to do this today. Really, THANK YOU.
 

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Got it cut and did a test fitting just with the ring- didn't glue the top part of the inner boot yet, or glue the top "lip" back down in front.

Happy to say that I can now shift into 2,4,6,R :)



2 questions:

1. Cross linked polyethylene foam- how are you getting it to stay put? I see the OEM foam on top of the transmission that is form fitted, but I'm wondering what I can do to make sure that the additional foam I uses doesn't fall out.

2. For the outer boot, when you say the "left clip" needs to be dealt with- I assume that you mean the clip that is on the driver's side, correct?


Thanks,
Eric
 

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Got it cut and did a test fitting just with the ring- didn't glue the top part of the inner boot yet, or glue the top "lip" back down in front.

Happy to say that I can now shift into 2,4,6,R :)



2 questions:

1. Cross linked polyethylene foam- how are you getting it to stay put? I see the OEM foam on top of the transmission that is form fitted, but I'm wondering what I can do to make sure that the additional foam I uses doesn't fall out.

2. For the outer boot, when you say the "left clip" needs to be dealt with- I assume that you mean the clip that is on the driver's side, correct?


Thanks,
Eric
You need to cut it in the same shape as the OEM foam, like a washer with the same inner and outer diameter, and in the thickness of the body lift (or a bit thicker for more insulation with pressure). Then you insert it through the shifter, one piece and push it in. It will stay in place with the transmission shaft and by pressure. It wont go anywhere as one piece. Make sure its crosslink polyethylene foam, or some high temp foam, temperatures in there will probably reach 150~180 F in the worst case scenario of a super hot day. Or, if you want, you can buy the OEM foam and cut it to the thickness and insert it in. Part # is 52122269AC

Yes, like so, the top part on the image below where one clip is missing, that one (driver side). This is a top view of the outer boot and in the direction it would sit. If you look at it from below it would be the clip on the right.

 

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Next question... Where can I buy polyethylene foam? Home depot is a no go.
 

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Next question... Where can I buy polyethylene foam? Home depot is a no go.
I had to search for smaller or industrial oriented local sellers. None of the major chains had up to par foam or any foam at all in houston. I searched foam in google maps and found a few companies, then called around until I hit with one that had it.
You can try any of these guys on their phones, austin foam or look in the yellow pages to see who sells foams.

Online foamfactory.com sells, but in bulk and it jumps up the cost. You could also use the high quality version of neoprene rubber, apparently it has a higher temp range than cpe, Neoprene HQ Data sheet.

Neoprene rubber
Cross linked polyethylene
 

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UpdatE- didnt like messing with the epoxy so i got anew inner boot from the dealership. You can actually trim all that you need to without cutting the top part off the boot. Working well so far and now just waiting on foam to get delivered next week.

Thanks GSN!!!
 
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