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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have problems with these sealing and manage to fix it? I've re-seated them 3 or 4 times now since March and still I get a condensation drip on the driver's side when I start up first thing. The previous times it always insisted on sitting slightly crooked.

Today I loosened up the band clamp in front of the resonator again and shoved the pipe into it as far as I could get (the guide notch has been cut off as per install instructions). Cleaned up the faces of the flanges and the spacers with a green scrubby to get stuck on dried on rusty condensation off and put it back together. For the first time I managed to have both spacers sitting properly and bolted everything back up. Started up, and the condensation drip is still there :banghead:

Any idea what I'm doing wrong? Am I over or undertightening maybe? I'm just using a standard 13mm combo wrench on the bolts due to the location. Is there some torque setting for these? I basically tightened them down as far as I could get them to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are yours shaped like an hourglass, or are they more strait with one end curved in?
They're the newer version that is straight with the curve on one end.
 

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I had no trouble with mine. They are the newer version also. They're beveled on both ends. I know we had to crank them pretty tight. Not sure what the torque spec is, but may want to shoot Teraflex a PM about it.
 

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Mine are the newer ones. My buddy had to use a pry bar to hold the pipe in place while I tightened it up. If I was by myself I'd have never got them in. They do not leak at all. They were the hardest part of the lift.
 

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We acutally used the stock jack and wedged it up in there in combination with some ratchet straps to get the exhaust lined up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yeah guess I'll have to call TF and ask about torque specs. Don't know how I'm going to get a torque wrench on one of the driver's side bolts. Maybe I can "eyeball" it after feeling how much force is needed on the other 3. It's definitely lined up this time finally so now I'm really confused on why it's leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, just got off the phone. The rep called up the engineer and they said 25 ft/lb. Apparently they also said a small minor condensation drip shouldn't be a big problem. They also said to let them know if it turns into something bigger though. Not sure what exactly to think of that or if I should just ignore it if it continues the little drip at startup. Anyway I will get under there tonight and try out 25 ft/lb. Hopefully I can get a socket on the one bolt that is really a tight squeeze.
 

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I never looked to see if my exhaust drips out the tail pipe but here in the NE it is common to see cars and trucks doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I never looked to see if my exhaust drips out the tail pipe but here in the NE it is common to see cars and trucks doing this.
Right, it's just condensation that occurs after you shut the vehicle off. However my understanding is it should not come out of any of the joints between the engine and the exhaust tip because that means you also have an exhaust leak which to my understanding is a bad thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have the original type and no problems or drips with mine. Driver's side was harder for sure on the intall.
What was harder about it though? Getting it in there? Getting it aligned? etc.? I've really had no problems getting it in there, just getting it lined up straight (finally fixed) and to not drip at cold startup (still happening). Maybe my factory flanges are just a little off and don't mate up with the TF spacers exactly.
 

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They were the hardest part of the lift.
You sir, are telling the truth!

mine had a tiny leak that was driving me nuts, Jeep sounded like a diesel. I finally got a set of ratcheting box end wrenches and was able to torque that top one right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You sir, are telling the truth!

mine had a tiny leak that was driving me nuts, Jeep sounded like a diesel. I finally got a set of ratcheting box end wrenches and was able to torque that top one right.
Hmm I have no problem getting the bolts tight with a standard box wrench. I just don't know if I am over or under tightening or have a defective spacer or exhaust flanges.
 

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What was harder about it though? Getting it in there? Getting it aligned? etc.? I've really had no problems getting it in there, just getting it lined up straight (finally fixed) and to not drip at cold startup (still happening). Maybe my factory flanges are just a little off and don't mate up with the TF spacers exactly.

I did the install by myself and had to pry back the exhaust on the driver's side using a crowbar...all the while lining it up as straight as I could.

It has been quiet and drip-free for over a year now. It was not really needed for the 2.5 lift I installed but a little more clearance for the driveshaft never hurts and the price was right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I finally got a chance to get under there today and torque things. Had to go pick up the "harbor freight special" 3/8" drive torque wrench (5-80lbs) so I could get down to 25ft/lbs without being too far at the bottom end of the range. Found out a few things. First, 25ft/lbs. is a LOT more than I thought. I think part of that is I have been tightening the bolts with a 13mm combo wrench. The torque wrench is nearly if not twice as long (more leverage). So the passenger side tightened up quite a bit. Driver's side same thing, except one problem. No matter what I tried.........extensions, swivel adapters, etc..........I could NOT get to the bolt next to the exhaust crossover with the torque wrench. I ended up tightening them both down to a similar tightness with the combo wrench and then tried to match how much I had to turn the accessible bolt to get to 25lbs. by using the combo wrench on the inaccessible one. (it was a PITA due to less leverage and having nothing to extend the length) I might see about getting a crow's foot adapter and trying that but I suspect right now that bolt is between 22-27lbs probably but I'm going to guess it's at or under 25.

Anyway, the end result? Still drips, not quite as fast as when I thought maybe I had them too tight and backed off. Also noticed this time the passenger side actually "oozes" condensation but not enough to actually drip. I don't think that's a new development though, I was always just looking for drips. This is really fraking annoying too. I know they're both lined up correctly but this stuff is still going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
flyinion~

What size lift do you have?
Metalcloak 2.5" it comes with long travel ome shocks. Definitely needs the spacers if that's what you're wondering.
 
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