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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2001 Jeep Wrangler with 33inch tires and a 3 inch body lift to accommodate these tires. I bought it about 2 years ago with the body lift and tires already done. Whenever they made the body they, for whatever reason, put 3 inch blocks under the engine and the transmission... whenever they did this, they didn't accommodate for the lift in the transmission so now the transmission sits too high, causing there to be a VERY large angle, maybe around a 50 degree angle, on the driveshaft. Now my universal joints are wearing out about every 2000 or 3000 miles of regular use from the bearings binding and completely wearing out... I've been broken down on the side of the road a few times because of it... first of all, is it even normal to put blocks under the tranny and engine when doing a body lift?? and do y'all have any solutions for it? yes i know i ccan get rid of the body lift and get a suspension lift, which i want to but i don't have $2000 and in know i can get an SYE kit for about $1000 in all but i am dirt poor at the moment being a highschooler... haha, i have someone who may be turning the axle soon to take the angle off the lower u-joints but what about the upper joints? will the angle still be wearing them out? and do y'all think turning the axle will be okay? i just want second opinions. and turning the axle just means cutting all of the suspension mounting off the axle and literally turning it upwards. just give me your thought and it would be much appreciated!:Thanx:
 

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If I were you, I would buy a Zone 4.25" Combo Lift. It will come with 3" of suspension lift, a 1.25" body lift (that you can use to replace the 3"bl you have), and a 1" motor mount lift (that you can use to replace your 3" blocks. Stick that on and get rid of the block completely on your transmission mount, and you should be good to go...and for about $550.
Zone Offroad 4-1/4" Combo System 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ J25/J26
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
if i were to spend $500+ on a lift i'd rather go all out and do it right with one of the local off road shops here... I'm very much considering doing this but i was just trying to see y'alls opinions on how to fix this problem. What would y'all say about fixing the problem as is? like by keeping the current lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If I were you, I would buy a Zone 4.25" Combo Lift. It will come with 3" of suspension lift, a 1.25" body lift (that you can use to replace the 3"bl you have), and a 1" motor mount lift (that you can use to replace your 3" blocks. Stick that on and get rid of the block completely on your transmission mount, and you should be good to go...and for about $550.
Zone Offroad 4-1/4" Combo System 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ J25/J26
do you have this combo lift though?? I'm unsure the quality of it and how well it would ride
 

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From what i understand Zone does not produce junk. Also, I have heard the combo lift recommended numerous times, I doubt it is of poor quality.
 

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do you have this combo lift though?? I'm unsure the quality of it and how well it would ride
Considering the state of yours ANYTHING would be better!! Your wearing out u joints every 2-3K and you continue to drive it like that?
 

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Zone is pretty good quality for a kit and definitely better than a lot others on the market. I'd either take it to a shop that knows what they are doing to diagnose your problems or post pics on here. I've never heard of putting 3" blocks under your engine and transmission.
 

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do you have this combo lift though?? I'm unsure the quality of it and how well it would ride
No I don't, but my son has one on his, and his rides fine. It is a very good lift for the price. It's not not a Currie or OME, but it is head and shoulders better than the other inexpensive lifts out there. And because it is only a 3" suspension lift with the mml, you don't need the sye.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i may look into this zone kit! thank you all for that solution, but i am only a high school student in a very rigorous program, all of my free time goes to work but i have a lot more bills than a high school student should have... so i don't have any money to spare whatsoever.. haha, haven't had any money to do much of anything let alone $500+ for this lift... but as soon as i get the money i will most likely be getting this lift to fix the problem. I'll post pics of it tomorrow but its about the most jacked up lift! haha, wish i knew more about cars before i bought this one! oh well, learn by your mistakes! lol, but thanks all for the suggestions, i really appreciate it.
 

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Just think
How much are you spending to replace U joints and after breaking down? How much time is that wasting? What about all the other steering and driveline components being out under wholly unnecessary stress by this lift?

For $550, you won't have to worry every time you drive if you'll get stuck, and save a lot of money and time in the long run. I'm a broke high schooler too, but when it comes to my Jeep, my daily driver, I can be in debt for a bit to make sure that's running good.
 

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Just think How much are you spending to replace U joints and after breaking down? How much time is that wasting? What about all the other steering and driveline components being out under wholly unnecessary stress by this lift? For $550, you won't have to worry every time you drive if you'll get stuck, and save a lot of money and time in the long run. I'm a broke high schooler too, but when it comes to my Jeep, my daily driver, I can be in debt for a bit to make sure that's running good.
From Youth comes words of wisdom! :thumb:
Personally I'd pull the the 3 inch blocks & bring it back to stock until you're ready to put a quality lift on it! You are surely tearing more than just u joints...
 

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Three inch blocks under the engine and trans mounts? If that is the case i would get rid of them . You might have to extend the shifter and cut the lower radiator shroud .Or just take it back to stock.
 

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A SYE will cost you half what you think, look at Tatton's.
Not by the time he buys adjustable upper rear control arms, the sye, the drive shaft, and a track bar bracket. And why would you want to build on the bad foundation that's already been started? He needs to get rid of the jerry rigged blocks and the 3"bl.
 

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well I paid $410 for the SYE with a custom made driveshaft and I haven't got adjustable upper rears, if he refuses to take blocks out and return to stock $410 would get it drivable to a point it wont be killing UJ,s and vibration free. It must be shaken itself to bits at the moment.
 

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well I paid $410 for the SYE with a custom made driveshaft and I haven't got adjustable upper rears, if he refuses to take blocks out and return to stock $410 would get it drivable to a point it wont be killing UJ,s and vibration free. It must be shaken itself to bits at the moment.
Remember he is at stock suspension height. His engine and trans have been raised equally, so his rear dif would have to be rotated up to have correct angles for a DC drive shaft. There are a lot of issues ($'s) that would have to be overcome to use an sye in this circumstance. One size doesn't fit all.
 

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Right I get it now, his diff angle would have to be rotated a lot to take in the cv prop to go with the SYE, where I left my transfer case spacer kit in so not to upset the angle with mine.
 

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Guys, it doesn't matter what could fit right now or how much/little money.

The problem is the massive body lift and jerry rigged engine/transmission blocks. They need to be removed ASAP, and OP if you have something else to drive, you should (I know it sucks) leave the Jeep home until you have the funds to get the Zone kit.
 

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Guys, it doesn't matter what could fit right now or how much/little money.

The problem is the massive body lift and jerry rigged engine/transmission blocks. They need to be removed ASAP, and OP if you have something else to drive, you should (I know it sucks) leave the Jeep home until you have the funds to get the Zone kit.
Maybe you missed this:

Not by the time he buys adjustable upper rear control arms, the sye, the drive shaft, and a track bar bracket. And why would you want to build on the bad foundation that's already been started? He needs to get rid of the jerry rigged blocks and the 3"bl.
 
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