Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

41 - 59 of 59 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Also... moved the studs up to the next set of holes. I ended up using a spidertrax wheel adapter, I had an extra set I bought on CL for 50 bucks.

AHHHH well, THAT's the solution to the elusive rear back up camera dilemma then. The RECON "issue" has always been the spoke position on top blocking all brackets and cameras. I guess doing this allows for the wheel to be more in line with all the other Jeep rear tire position models. Good pic!

Ugh, not looking forward to shifting studs already in place. How did you go about doing it?? you did install a rear tire spacer BUT moved the studs already pre-installed ON the carrier itself???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,041 Posts
Ugh, not looking forward to shifting studs already in place. How did you go about doing it?? you did install a rear tire spacer BUT moved the studs already pre-installed ON the carrier itself???
To remove studs already installed, get yourself two nuts that are the proper size for the studs, screw both of them on the stud about halfway, then run the two nuts up against each other, take two wrenches and tighten the outside tight against the inside, effectively jamming the nuts together, then put your wrench on the inner most nut, and back the stud out. If they are loctited in, you will make it easier on yourself to heat the bracket up a bit.


If you have used Loctite on the wheel adapters and you are going to check the torque on them, be sure you set your torque wrench 5 or 10#'s lower than the torque spec, so you do not disturb the loctite.

Your Jeep looks really good.
Nice Job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
.....and to re install on new holes though?? Press needed??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
....If you have used Loctite on the wheel adapters and you are going to check the torque on them, be sure you set your torque wrench 5 or 10#'s lower than the torque spec, so you do not disturb the loctite.

Your Jeep looks really good.
Nice Job.
Thanks man!!
I did use Loctite (but at least Blue!, not Red)
Good tip. Spec was 90# I think. I wrote it down.
Tires/wheels perfect match for me.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,462 Posts
a big hammer will knock them out and pound them in. you can also just use a nut a washer and a socket to install them basically jdinny’s technique in reverse
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,041 Posts
a big hammer will knock them out and pound them in. you can also just use a nut a washer and a socket to install them basically jdinny’s technique in reverse
Thanks man!!
I did use Loctite (but at least Blue!, not Red)
Good tip. Spec was 90# I think. I wrote it down.
Tires/wheels perfect match for me.

Ok, my bad.
I assumed they were screwed in, did not know they were just pressed.
Sorry about that, mine are threaded in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Ok, my bad.
I assumed they were screwed in, did not know they were just pressed.
Sorry about that, mine are threaded in.

Wait, wait...I DUNNO IF they are pressed in or threaded in. I was actually asking. The studs on the RECON have that long threaded look of a long "bolt" but I dunno HOW exactly is installed on the bracket.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,462 Posts
Wait, wait...I DUNNO IF they are pressed in or threaded in. I was actually asking. The studs on the RECON have that long threaded look of a long "bolt" but I dunno HOW exactly is installed on the bracket.
The bracket threads are pressed in. If that is what you are talking about. I have done at least 6 of them. also if you use the spacer from teraflex that is designed for this carrier your wheel will be in the same position as it is now regarding back up camera. If you get a set and split it then it will be flipped so you can use a camera. the difference is the standard set has the studs pressed in and works the same as it does on your hubs, the spacer for the spare does not have studs pressed into the spacer you just use longer studs on the bracket that pass thru the spacer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
I just tapped them out and tapped them back in with a punch. I used blue loctite on the spacer/adapter nuts, same as I used on the other 4 wheels. As mentioned , the spacer I used does change the wheel clocking, no big deal except my 3rd brake light is lower now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
More available studs to add an extra wheel lock. I added a tuffy in addition to the mcguard I already had. Anything to slow thief down...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Just to clear it up ('cuz I'm slow!;)), I think what I'm getting out of what you boys @jadmt , @Toolmaker , @jdinny are saying, is that whether you use the TF spare tire wheel adapter (solid quality and inexpensive, but not actually "needed" for my particular situation with THESE tires) or you "adjust" the TF HD hinged carrier tire holder, you can "shift" the studs positioning within the bracket itself, to "shift" the spokes on the wheel thus exposing the proper opening on the top to fit the rear view camera system available to all the other Jeep models with the non-RECON wheels.
Also, you could, since you are there anyway, add an additional stud for another nut (a second 'key' wouldn't be bad either!)
The pic above with the spare wheel shifted looks real clean. And yes, I can see the 3rd brake light is lower, but only by a few inches. I've toyed with the idea of flipping the 'regular' camera bracket upside down and bending the angle of the bracket outwards, but this would place the actual camera at the BOTTOM of the wheel spokes. I think the stud shifting mod is much more workable and clean. Thank you boys for your time and effort. Worth it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,462 Posts
No you can not shift the studs in the bracket itself you can raise them up to fit a 37 tire but the stay in The same pattern ie you can not run a camera in the same position as most all other wheels. You need to get a spacer that has the studs already pressed in like toolmaker has
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Ahhh duhh you're right. TH Carrier only goes up and down, and in and out, not "round".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Ahhh duhh you're right. TH Carrier only goes up and down, and in and out, not "round".
Correct ,exactly what @jadmt says ! He explains stuff way better than I can. Where are you located ? If you want the spacer , it's yours. It is 1.75 thick. It might be too much for you current tire size though. I have no use for it and 1 might be hard to come by.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Discussion Starter #55

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,498 Posts
Understood. Tech at shop said my adjustable TF holder was now maxed out but still holds both bolts for my 285/75R17. He was very clear it would not handle another upgrade in size, likely like your 35 x 12.5
Mine today looks great and feels sturdy
You have plenty of room to spare. I've run 40x13.5, 37x13.5 and 37x12.5 on that carrier with no issues.

Here's a pic of the 40 hanging off it

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
“You have plenty of room to spare. I've run 40x13.5, 37x13.5 and 37x12.5 on that carrier with no issues.”

Depends on wheel backspacing.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,498 Posts
You're correct.
When we ran a 315/70/17 Duratrac on stock wheels we had to use a spacer, we went with the Synergy spacer that moves the wheel up 1" and out 1".
But that size tire is out of spec for a factory wheel, Goodyear spec is 8.5" - 11.0 " wheel for that size tire. (and a 35/12.5/17) An approved wheel for that width tire will almost always have lower backspace and will not be an issue.
So moral to the story, if you're running wheels and tires that are within spec, then most likely the carrier will fit your setup without a spacer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
@ blue baby sound , well said ! Personally wheel spacers are a temporary solution till I can afford the wheels I want. I have other mods I want to spend my money on right now.
Admittedly I get an uneasy feeling every time I glance at my wheels and see those spacers in there ! I rotate every 2,500 miles and will check the spacer torque. So far good after the first 50 miles.
 
41 - 59 of 59 Posts
Top