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The Colonel - My 1943 Willys MB build

74372 Views 203 Replies 73 Participants Last post by  Beastmaster, 
Beastmaster
Eugene the Jeep
​



To begin with, I want to go on record saying that I am by no means an expert on Military Jeep restoration. I have done many hours of research (the internet is a wonderful thing) this thread is not a tutorial, I just want to pass on what I have done and learned. For more detailed restoration tips and information I recommend sites like G503.com (and it's sub forum 1943MB.com) as well as many others like Olive-Drab.com.






There are several different types of restoration levels of WWII Jeeps:
  • Factory Restoration: This is where you restore everything (and I mean everything) so that it looks just like it did when it rolled out of the factory.
  • Motor Pool Restoration: Many Jeeps required repair while in military service and OEM parts may not have been available. For a Motor Pool restoration, you sometimes use non-factory parts but they must be something that could have been used during the war.
  • I'm more going with a "Bubba" Restoration: There are so many non-standard things on my Jeep, I'm just going to get it running and to look as good as I can on my limited budget.
-The Jeep -​




On the 12th of July, 2013 I found an ad for a "WW2 Willy's Jeep". On July 13th, I bought it for $1000.

I literally had to pull it out of a farmer's field where it had been sitting for the last 8 years. 3 of the 4 tires held air but there was no way I was getting the 4th one inflated since it had a silver dollar sized hole chewed into it by gophers.

I've had a blast restoring it and I still have a loooong ways to go but here are some of it's particulars:

Officially designated as a Willys-Overland MB, Truck, 1/4 ton, 4x4, Command Reconnaissance

Serial Number: 205586

Date of delivery: January 25th, 1943

Its body is a replacement made by the American Central Body company with a serial number of 77989 manufactured in June 1943.

After the war, he was upgraded with a 1950 Studebaker 6-cylinder flat head engine serial number 533870

- Recent History -

  • In the mid 1990s, a husband and his wife, in Phoenix started the process of research to find the Jeep he drove during WWII while in the Army. The husband said he had 2 great loves in his life: "His Wife and his Willys". After 4 years of research, they were able to find the exact Jeep he drove while in the Army. Unfortunately, he passed away a few years later and was never able to realize his dream.
  • In 2005 it was bought by a couple in Camp Verde as a restoration project for their Father. Due to illness, the project was never started and it sat where it had been parked.



It's pretty much a "Franken Jeep" cobbled together from various vehicles. The frame is original Willys MB, it has a 1950 flat head 6-cylinder Studebaker engine and then there is the body . . .
A previous owner apparently wanted a tail gate (the MB has none) and the fuel filler on the side (the MB filler cap is under the driver's seat). It looked like he didn't want to go through the hassle of rewiring the dash so he chopped the tub in half just forward of the seats and welded the back half of a CJ-2 on to it.

Although I had been told it was a WWII Jeep, I wanted to make sure it was actually a Willys. It took me a while to definitively identify it because many of the identifying features were missing. You can identify an MB frame several ways if, like me you are missing identification numbers, and here are a few.
1. Engine Block
a. Serial number stamped on the engine. The number prefix will tell you the manufacturer. Willys engines have numbers that start with the letters "MB" (MB123456) whereas Ford engine numbers usually start with "GPW" (GPW123456) I couldn't use this since it currently has a Studebaker engine.
2. Body or "Tub"
a. This is a more complex determination owing to the variations in bodies used throughout the war. Before late 1943 Willys and Ford used separately manufactured bodies. Starting in early 1944 one manufacturer (American Central Manufacturing Co.) began building bodies for both Ford and Willys. These bodies are referred to as "composite" bodies because they have characteristics of the earlier Ford and Willys bodies combined into one body type. I couldn't use this since a previous owner had pieced together a military (most likely MB) body with a CJ-2 body..
3. Frame
a. The easiest way to distinguish between the two frame types is to inspect the front frame crossmember that is beneath the radiator. The Ford GPW frame uses an inverted "U" shaped steel member here. It is open on the bottom. The Willys MB frame has a steel tube or pipe type member in this location. I couldn't use this since a previous owner had welded on a straight cross member.
b. Another detail to check is the machine gun mount. In the center of either frame, mounted to a crossmember behind the transmission, is a large, roughly circular plate with four holes drilled in it . This is the machine gun pedestal mount. Only WWII jeeps have this feature, and all WWII MB/GPW jeeps were equipped with this plate. The plate for a Ford is oval and Willys has a round one. BINGO! Even though a previous owner had chopped it up to fit a CJ-2 tub, you can still see it is round..

Here are some pics from when I first brought it home:

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Beastmaster
One of the first things I did was remove the body parts (tub, windshield, hood fenders & grill) so I could see what I had. Additionally, I was able to get a replacement tub from a local military vehicle surplus place. It's not pretty, but it's a WWII military tub and it's workable.

I'm still a long ways from being ready to install it, but I got some new data plates.

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Beastmaster
I was told it was running before it was parked 8 years ago so I haven't torn the engine down. All of the fluids looked clean so I replaced them along with all hoses. I also replaced everything in the ignition system and had the starter and generator rebuilt.
I've temporarily wired it up but still having a hard time getting it started, I have to trouble shoot the system.

At least it turns over. :)

I've also rebuilt the brake cylinders (master and all 4 wheels), replaced the brake shoes and turned the drums. The brake drums look original or OEM replacement. They still have OD paint on them and you can see the slot for the feeler gauge for adjusting them.

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Beastmaster
87 Florida YJ said:
BeastMaster ...... think this one has possibilities? PO said it purrs like a kitten after it warms up:lmao::lmao::lmao:
Click to expand...
Ya, I think some bondo and plasti-dip and it'll fix right up.:mooning:
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Beastmaster
Okay, so the last few days I've been busy. I had already re-built my front brakes and main brake cylinder so now it was time for the rear. I re-built the back brakes, pulled both diff covers to check the gears (they looked good) and replaced the front pinion seal that was leaking. I also checked the trans and gear boxes and topped off the fluid, they looked pretty good. Almost ready to start the body work.
My front brakes were just on the edge of calibration limits and I couldn't get them turned. The read drums, however had one more turn in them so they are good to go (new front drums waiting on money).

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Okay, so I'm done with my chassis and drive train for now. I still haven't gotten it running and the frustration meter is pegged so I've decided to move on to the body work.

The replacement tub I acquired looks pretty rough but for the most part is pretty sound. Back in post #2 you can see the composite tub I have to work with. I did some research and determined it was manufactured by the American Central Body company in June 1943 so it's only 6 months newer than the chassis. The only big rust spots are from the cross member of the hat channel, the side piece where the shovel goes and a hole in the rear panel.
The side piece and hat channel rust is typical in WWII Jeeps. When they designed the WWII tubs, they had u-shaped channels under the body for added strength. To add rigidity and to save weight (the govt. contract specified a max. wt of 1,300 lbs empty) they filled the channels with wood. Okay, you know where this is going. I've removed the hat channels and hill have to wait on replacements since they run $120-$180 not including shipping.
I have no idea why a PO cut a hold in the rear panel. It's right under where the spare tire mount goes. The metal is sound so it should be an easy fix.

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Funds being what they are, even though I'd love to get it sand blasted (~$250), I'm just using paint remover and a rotary sander to get the paint off so I can see what I need to repair.. Wow, there is like 8 layers of paint there. As best as I can tell, it started out O.D., then gray, blue, red, O.D. again, yellow, and finally kind of a black and white tiger stripe that had been applied with a brush.
I took it down to bare metal in most places and then put a layer of primer on so it didn't rust any more while I was working on the dents.
Also, it has allot of extra holes and brackets that have been added throughout the years. I've been cruzing the interwebs to try to figure out what stays and what goes.

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Beastmaster
Just an update on my body work.

As I stripped the paint an bondo off, I discovered it's banged up a little more than I first thought. No problem, it will just take more hits with the hammer.
I've been working on patching the areas that have rusted through. I patched the hole in the rear panel and all of the rust from the hat channels so all I have left are a few small holes and the shovel channel on the side.

Give me a break on my welds. I've taught myself how to use this Harbor Freight wire feed welder. The welds aren't pretty but they are strong. The good thing is that they can all buff out.

Anyway, here are some before and after pics.

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Beastmaster
s14sh3r said:
You gonna weld up all the extra holes that have been drilled over the years?
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Ya, I'm in the process of researching what goes and what stays.
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Beastmaster
Okay, I did some tub fitting today. I still have a long ways to go but since this is not the tub that was on the chassis when I bought it, I wanted to see if I need to make any modifications.

I got everything together and some friends helped set everything in place. My biggest worry was that the after market 6-cly engine wouldn't clear the fire wall. After I got things in place, I was able to see the firewall would clear (barely) but for some reason the PO had raised the transmission and transfer case so the tub won't fit down over them.

Now to figure out the best course of action.

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Beastmaster
No pictures today (but allot of emocons) but wanted to share my "w00t" moment (everyone in the house is still in bed so I have nobody else to tell). :thumb:

I've gotten back to trying to get it started. I had a face palm moment a couple of days ago :doh2:. As mentioned, since I'm having to create my wiring harness from scratch, I couldn't get the thing to run. I felt like I was beating a dead horse :deadhorse: and was about ready to give in :surrender: and take it to a mechanic to trouble shoot it for me. :pullinghair:

I had replaced or rebuilt everything in the electrical system but realized I hadn't touched the carb! You would have thought I'd have thought about that before since it had been sitting for 8 years but noooo! :jawdrop:

Anyhoo, I bought a rebuild kit for the carburator (discovered it was a mid to late '60s Ford) and rebuilt it.:happyyes:

It smokes a bit and I need to fine tune it but I got it running. :punk:

Now back to the body work.

:iamhappy:
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JeeperJake said:
what a FINE project!!!!

The only thing stopping me is time/money/skills/shop/tools.....

My own "first Jeep" adventure began circa 1961 with a buddy & a 1945 CJ2.....and between driving it, wrenching on it, walking back looking for a ride/tow/help, it was a TON of fun!

Cheers to you AND your project!
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Thanks for the good words.

I hear you.

On the time/money/skills/tools thing. At any given time with the time and money, I have plenty of one and not enought of the other. :pullinghair:
With the tools; I've been to Harbor Freight allot.:thumb:
As to the skills, I've developed a few over the years and YouTube is great helping me hone the rest.:D

Been spliting my time between the frame (re-locating the rear shocks and lowering the larger T-90 trans) and the tub (body work and hat channels).
There was a SNAFU in the shipment of my hat channels and they sent the wrong ones. My rear shocks and brackets should be in tomorrow.
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Beastmaster
Well, since I'm still waiting on my replacement hat channels and couldn't work on my tub, I decided to tackle my rear shocks,

Since the PO had mixed up the tub and the rear half was CJ-2, he had to relocate the rear shock mounts. Not I had a pure WWII tub, I needed to put things back the way they were.

The WWII Jeep tubs, both Ford and Willys, had the shocks mounted straight up from the rear of the axles. The upper mount extends above the frame and the tub has a cutout to make room.

The PO had invented lower shock mounts (a large plate under the springs) and bolted a plate to the side of the frame (the arrow in the first pic). I needed to do some creative cutting and welding to install the upper mounts because the PO had really butchered the frame when he took the original mounts off.

I think things came out rather well. :iamhappy:

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robmcbee said:
subb'd.... I would love to find one of these in my price range.
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Ya, it's not really in my price range but with lots of overtime O think I can get it looking pretty good.
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Beastmaster
Well, between the rainy weekend, lack of parts (and wrong parts being sent) I haven't done much but turn wrenches replacing bolts, etc.
Since it has a T-90 transmission out of a CJ-2, the tranny sits too high for the MB rub. I did pick up an cross member off of a CJ-2 (not installed yet). This way I can lower my transmission to the proper height.
Arizona motor vehicle laws state that a vehicle only needs the safety equipment it came from the factory with. This being said, I'm going to put in seat belts and turn signals. I know it's a little early to be thinking about seat belts but I found some on E-bay I had to get. They are the type that have been used on the passenger seats in US military transport aircraft for decades. I've lost track of the hours I've spent in them as a Loadmaster

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Beastmaster
I haven't been able to do much lately, I have a week off for Christmas so hopefully I can get some things done then.

Last weekend I tac-welded my new hat channels in place and rigged up sone straps in the garage to lower the tub into place. The channels are where they should be so I plan on taking the tub off this weekend and doing the final welds.

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Beastmaster
I'm happy with the Wrangler Forum, heck I'm a Moderator here so I'd better be, but I have to put a plug in for the most definitive forum for military vehicle restoration: G503.com.
G-503 was the designation in the military supply catalogue for Truck, 1/4 Ton, Command Reconnaissance (Willys MB and Ford GPW Jeeps)

Okay that being said, I had a question on the installation of my blackout headlight. I has only 2 holes on my fender and the light required 3 (5 including the holes for the wiring and the wire tie down bracket). They suggested the extra holes had been welded or covered up and sure enough, they were there.
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MSpiegel00 said:
Just something I found humorous...

They started to reuse those old seat belts again. Right before I left my last unit, we got two new armored FMTV's, and they had 3 point harnesses with those style attachment clasps.
Click to expand...
I guess when you have a design that works, why mess with it? :happyyes:
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Beastmaster
Not much to report, been working back and forth between my chassis (garage) and tub (back yard). I hope to have the tub to where I can post some pics in a few days but for now all I have is of some work I've done to the chassis.

I replaced the transmission cross member from one off of a CJ-2 in order to lower it for the larger transmission. I've also been working to get a parking brake. It's a complicated little thing that attaches to the drive shaft just aft of the transfer case. There were only a few pieces of it when I bought the Jeep so I've had to download diagrams and order the missing parts. When I bought what I thought would be the last parts, I ordered 1 of each piece I needed, come to find out there were 2 brackets that I need 2 of. :facepalm:

I was going to make my own wiring harness but when I put together a parts list I found it was going to cost close to $250. :eek: For $350 I can get the complete harness that will take only a few hours to install. I pulled the trigger and they said I should get it in 3 weeks or so (they make them in Australia) :pullinghair:

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demarpaint said:
Subscribed. You do nice work!
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Thanks.


Okay, I've had a bust week with the Jeep. I finalized the body work in my off time during the week and I bed-lined the floor with Monstaliner yesterday. I didn't want the texture you get with the roller so I used a foam brush. There were a few brush strokes but for the most part, its pretty clean. I got the tintable bed liner and was worried on the color match. As you can see, it matches my GCI paint shade 33040 perfectly. Between coats of the bed liner, and while curing over night, I had to cover it to keep dust and leaves off of it so I used, what else?

A pup tent. :thumb:

So, it looks like I'm done with the body work. I'm not going to mate the tub yet because it will be easier to install the wiring harness with the tub off. I should be able to get to that when the harness arrives in a couple of weeks.

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