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Thanks Jeep63, will do. I've read a few threads about drilling holes, just been apprehensive. But your pictures look factory done, giving me inspiration! I'm thinking 1/2" hole? at each end, clean/degrease area, then dab with a Rust-Oleum, then squirt some Flud Film over it to finish the job??
 

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I may be mistaken but I thought Jeep fixed the issues of the older frames with the JK. Buy fluid film with the extension wand and spray it in every hole you find and should be golden
 

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Thanks Jeep63, will do. I've read a few threads about drilling holes, just been apprehensive. But your pictures look factory done, giving me inspiration! I'm thinking 1/2" hole? at each end, clean/degrease area, then dab with a Rust-Oleum, then squirt some Flud Film over it to finish the job??
:hijacked:

As we continue our tangent into TJ/LJ frame preservation techniques!

I believe the hole is 1/2, at least. I made sure to clean up all the burrs to keep it clear for drainage. I did this prior to any other frame work, so I then scrubbed the entire frame and cleaned the inside as much as possible. I used Eastwood's internal frame coating on the entire frame too; I left the holes I drilled open, but taped up all the others to trap the paint inside as I sprayed the coating. This ensured the inside of the frame was fully coated and I was able to see paint run out the drain holes, so I knew they functioned and were also painted.

We use the 18" Fluid film wand to spray inside the frame too. This is the second year treating the frame and LJ, it still looks great.

Good luck with your frame preservation! It is a worthwhile endeavor given the limited production of LJs.
 

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I may be mistaken but I thought Jeep fixed the issues of the older frames with the JK. Buy fluid film with the extension wand and spray it in every hole you find and should be golden
Sorry, we hijacked :hijacked: the thread for a brief LJ tangent! I try to encourage all LJ/TJ owners to perform the drain modifcation to prevent it from rusting from the inside out.

I believe you are correct in that the JK frames were build with proper drain holes to prevent this.
 

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I have resprayed my '15 and the wife's '16 each year since new. Sprayed inside the frame on each the 1st 2 years using the wand and a 3 foot extension (air powered sprayer). The floor pans and all accessible tubing (cross member and such, inside and out) has been sprayed each year....
Until this year. The fluid film on the frame rails inside and out has never washed off no matter how may washes these Jeeps have gone thru, neither has the FF on the floor pans and in the crevasses. It creeps in and stays put as those areas do not get sprayed w/ a conventional wash bay washing. The suspension components lose MOST of the film, but you can still feel the film it you rub you hand on it. Even IF those parts get washed off, they are easily recoated w/ a spray can. They also get washed frequently in the car wash to remove the road grime.
BTW, I put FF on like frosting when I did my initial coatings as well as my recoating. None of that 2 cans did the entire JKU crap.
Oh yah, why not this year?
1. I don't think the areas that should be coated yearly need recoating.
2. Winter hit so quick I did not have time to get to it. I am not worried though.
 

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Thought of this thread as I FF'd my 16 JKU again yesterday. I didn't do it the first winter, but have every winter since. So far, drive shafts and exhaust have surface rust (they all do, and I don't coat the exhaust), holes in the frame show the typical very light rust at the edges (not worried), and only major rust is at my aftermarket JKS disconnecting endlinks and ACE sliders... again, typical. Everything else is pristine. I use the rattle cans from Lowes with the small nozzle extenders that are included, and hit the skid plates, outside of the frame rails, inside any frame holes I can fine, all fasteners for control arms/drag link/tie rod/endlinks/sway bars/shocks/added bump stops/etc.etc.etc. I try to hit all fasteners in the Hardrock bumpers as well as the winch plate.

So far so good. I don't normally go through the automatic wash, but I do try to hit it after a good salting, after the roads dry up a bit. This summer while working on the Jeep I went around the front end with a Tub-o-Towels, cleaning up all the components and frame. Turns out the FF was still very much there and had collected a lot of grime over the years. Good to know it was still doing its job in spite of bi-monthly pressure washer hits. I use a pressure washer at home as well during the summer.

Great stuff.
 

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I sprayed Wool Wax a month ago. Here is a pic of it holding strong on top of my 10A bumper (I sprayed all bumper seams and bolts).
This is after a month of touch free car washes and daily commutes twenty miles to and from work 75-80mph.
I took this pic directly after a wash
 

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Never used WW, but the goal here in NH is to undercoat late summer and hit the dusty dirt roads to coat the undercoat.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Sounds like getting a crust on the "wet" woolwax helps based on the desire to get it coated with dust. Makes me go back to a thought I've had which would be to coat with Woolwax, let it settle in and then spray over it with a hard wax to make a crust.
 

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In Montana the problem is DUST, not rust. Because "A River Runs Through It," any form of salt application on our roads is prohibited by law.



But we have lots of dusty gravel roads, especially while en route to and during offroad adventures. Of course we drive our Jeeps through the rivers and creeks so there is a little bit of rust on them, mostly cosmetic. Structural damage due to rust is always a concern but as much a factor. We get lots of dust that cakes inside the frames and doors and any hole it can get through. So I blow it out with high pressure water and compressed air.



So in light of our dust problem I'm wandering how much of a problem there is with oil and wax based undercoatings. Doesn't the dust to stick to these products?
 

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I applied my fluid film again today for the winter. I am going into my third mid west winter with the jeep. So far I am really impressed with the results. I think the best judge if this stuff works or not are my drive shafts. My rear basically has zero rust on it and the front has a few spots but appear to be more to do with an inconsistent coating of FF then it does anything else. I have seen brand new jeeps on the lot with more rust on them then mine has underneath. I bought mine in November of 17 and applied FF right away. Did the same last year, just one application before the first snow flies. These pics aren't the best as I still have one of the old iphones and it was not real well lit under the jeep plus I had to shrink them down to meet the forum requirements.. You can tell the driveshafts are good though.
 

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I used three cans of wool wax and spent $40. I also did inside the frame but could use another can.

I think next time I will get it done. I know a guy that will completely drench the underside for $100.
 

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Any Negatives to the Wool wax???? I.m here in the Northeast and have been spraying my 16 jku with fluid film with good results so far. Thinking if wool wax is thicker I may be able to wash it more often without fear of it coming off like fluid film, anyone with experience with Wool wax have issue with it being washed off???
I live in Worcester and also FF my Jeeps... The 16's I FF'd the frame outside and in, and on my 13 I FF the inside and gloss blacked the outside which looks much nicer...

Anyhow, I ordered some BLACK WoolWax for the inside of my steel bumpers and stuff that can be coated a non-perfect black for protection... Never used it before... will report how I like compared to FF @ twice the cost (for black anyhow)!
 

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I live in Worcester and also FF my Jeeps... The 16's I FF'd the frame outside and in, and on my 13 I FF the inside and gloss blacked the outside which looks much nicer...

Anyhow, I ordered some BLACK WoolWax for the inside of my steel bumpers and stuff that can be coated a non-perfect black for protection... Never used it before... will report how I like compared to FF @ twice the cost (for black anyhow)!
I like the Black Woolwax! I expected it thicker, but it went on very similar to FF however left everything with a beautiful self leveling glossy black that bubbled for while as it creeped into my axles... was approximately 40df outside.

I have no idea if the black will permanately wipe off creating a mess, so I only did a few spots on my rear axles as I have to mask off my springs/shocks to go nuts underthere.... I also hit the insides of my rear bumper to prevent rust...

For cold weather climates where you can't touch up paint for the winter months, this black woolwax is a perfect supplement which gives a freshly painted appearance while protecting against salt and rust. I like it.

I don't want to go nuts as I don't know what the wipe up process will entail come spring time if I choose to re-coat my frame with gloss black paint.

Twice the cost of FF, Jet black self leveling coat of gloss black.
 
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