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Discussion Starter #201
No update yet. Been driving it trying to get the “chain slap” sound back so I can record it for my shop. Hasn’t happened. I’ve been babying it, maybe I need to flog it more? IDK. Also think something not right with new Rear axle position, it’s slamming down on something instead of having the shock absorb impact. Can’t judge the Alpine IR’s with that going on!
 

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Discussion Starter #202
Well... NOT Chain slap. Turns out my belt tensioner and one of my pulleys appear to be bad. With a listening device (in this case, a long ratchet extension and an ear) you can hear the gears grinding and you can even see the belt tensioner wobbling around when the noise is at its worst. Odd as it didn’t do it before we added the PSC big bore and the new water pump. Not sure why bad now but clearly the cause of the sound. Learning all kinds of fun stuff! Replacing next week. Still trying to diagnose the cause of the dying and the apparent rear axle position issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Well... NOT Chain slap. Turns out my belt tensioner and one of my pulleys appear to be bad. With a listening device (in this case, a long ratchet extension and an ear) you can hear the gears grinding and you can even see the belt tensioner wobbling around when the noise is at its worst. Odd as it didn’t do it before we added the PSC big bore and the new water pump. Not sure why bad now but clearly the cause of the sound. Learning all kinds of fun stuff! Replacing next week. Still trying to diagnose the cause of the dying and the apparent rear axle position issue.
Picked her up - maybe just in time for national quarantine? Anyway, belt tensioner all fixed up. The rear think was suspension whacking bump stops since we pushed axle back with new teraflex arms. Switched bump stops to some metalcloaks and all set! Happy! Also since I’m stuck home for who knows how long, I ordered some sundries for the Jeep. Big item is new hinges all around and metal door handles. Full metal. Can’t wait to ditch the horrible faded plastic!
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Rampage Stainless Steel Door Handles

Beautiful day today and obviously no plans, so I tackled the rampage door handle replacement. I had some leftover sound deadening material I had been sitting on, so I took the extra step of throwing it inside the doors when I had them open. Overall I’d say fairly simple. The step of actually removing the inner door panel piece though I just could not grasp from descriptions, finally understood you’ve got to move the windows a bit to allow the track to clear. The top bolt on the handle in the tailgate is a total PITA as well! I like the results so far, got through driver side and tailgate, passenger side tomorrow.
 

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The step of actually removing the inner door panel piece though I just could not grasp from descriptions, finally understood you’ve got to move the windows a bit to allow the track to clear. The top bolt on the handle in the tailgate is a total PITA as well! I like the results so far, got through driver side and tailgate, passenger side tomorrow.
Move the window by hand after the door is opened up, or position them in some way while still connected to power? So I guess you mostly just unscrew the black inner panel from the door skin?
 

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Discussion Starter #206
The step of actually removing the inner door panel piece though I just could not grasp from descriptions, finally understood you’ve got to move the windows a bit to allow the track to clear. The top bolt on the handle in the tailgate is a total PITA as well! I like the results so far, got through driver side and tailgate, passenger side tomorrow.
Move the window by hand after the door is opened up, or position them in some way while still connected to power? So I guess you mostly just unscrew the black inner panel from the door skin?
yes unscrew black inner panel from door skin, a bunch of gray 8 mm hex heads I think. If you want to really get behind like I did to put in the sound material, you’ll have to actually punch two wholes at the bottom of the panel (it’s made to do it) so you can access and release the window mechanism. So window down for that. I’m probably making it a bit Rube Goldberg, but I found myself needed to adjust the window up and down a bit beyond that. Down to release window, pull up to separate - tape up. Then I needed power on to move the mechanism around in purser to get the panel out of its seat. I did not completely remove the panel, it would be a pain I think as you’d need to remove all wire harness and I didn’t see a need for either project of door handles or sound material. Again on install I needed to have power to motor to move it around to get the track back inside the door.
 

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Thanks. I think I'll be buying those handles, the OEM plastic ones are still black as new on my wife's Jeep but they're already starting to fade on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #208
Thanks. I think I'll be buying those handles, the OEM plastic ones are still black as new on my wife's Jeep but they're already starting to fade on mine.
. Mine had become a constant source of irritation, I tried everything suggested here to blacken them and nothing held, so made the decision. They don’t look OEM per se but they fade into the background, which is what I wanted. good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #209
I bought the Kentrol Black stainless steel hinges for the Grinch. A few reasons:
  1. I’m a 2010 and a few of my hinges were getting the aluminum/steel galvanic corrosion and paint bubbling.
  2. Was worried about the raw steel under and the possible rust issues at 10 YO.
  3. My hinges were dinged up from rocks.
  4. I liked the idea of black.

    So far I’m midstream. Did the hood - super easy. When I replaced my hood with the 10A hood, the shop did it mostly right and painted under the hinges. Had to sand and repaint a little under one where the paint had bubbled but NBD. I like the look.
    4420244


    Following the instructions from Kentrol easy BUT I don’t recommend cutting around the hinges. I tried it on one and found it to be hard/impossible not to end up with extra scratches... also, very easy to break the bolts loose with a 3/8” Drive ratchet and elbow grease. Then just open the door a bit (holding it up, it will sag. The hinge paint breaks loose cleanly. Reclose door and off to races. Risk is that my door alignment might be harder to get back but I’m prepped to paint almost all exteriors simultaneously now (I had done their method first but was going to take a week at the pace of one at a time and I’m not that patient!) Here are some in process shots:
    4420245
    4420246
    Really glad I’m doing this, a lot of rust and/or galvanic corrosion. Will post more as progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #211 (Edited)
Hmm. Guess I forgot to post the Kentrol hinge replacement finished photos... I would say overall I’m happy. They made an odd choice in having the hinge pin contain a cheap white plastic bushing between the door and body hinge. This is both visible and almost impossible not to lose when removing doors. Also, the bottom of the new hinges is secured with a 10mm nut, a lock washer and a regular washer. The original Jeep hinge method is way better with only one nut. I’m going to try to figure out a one piece solution online. Other than that.., they look better, are solid, seem good. I’ll post a pic later but can’t now because Grinch is in the shop....
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Supercharger update: as it’s warmed up here in Dallas, I took the grinch out to our hunting lease to look around. My heat problem came back. 91°F day, Cruising speed limit 75 mph, hit some light rolling hills and temp starts climbing to 230+, small hills mind you but enough to drop it out of OD. As soon as it’s in OD or I slow down to 60 (ie rpms drop) the temp starts going down. (Also drove through a creek and my serpentine belt jumped... I’m running PSC steering pump plus the SC and a little guesswork on belt length means we were a little long, so replacing with shorter belt. Lucky I had a friend and property owner with me, couldn’t have gotten it back on alone with just hands and a screwdriver). Anyway, on the heat, keep in mind we have added the rear mounted, Derale electric fan/ aux transmission cooler (which seems not to have helped at all... grrr). Really had hoped that addition would solve it, seemed many here had found that a solution to heat in SC 3.8 autos. Well, Best guess now to address this is to regear - again. I’ve been on 4.88s for a while now. They have been fine for overall driving, but on highway it takes very little to pop it out of OD - a light breeze, a mild incline, maybe a butterfly flapping its wings in Belize... Going to go 5.38 and hope the grinch can hold OD better to stay out of prolonged boost. If this doesn’t do it, we’re out of ideas and will likely pull the SC. When it’s cold out the SC is such a great add on to make this thing the truck it should be, but the pain and expense of getting it working right... man it is a PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #213
Other tidbits: 1) after adding adjustable control arms, I developed a vibration/resonance on Hwy especially noticeable in OD. Think maybe got pinion angle off or even rear driveshaft ever so slightly not long enough for adjusted axle position. Trying to zero in on that. 2) PSC power steering pump seems to be not working right, loud squeal on lock, PSC says look at a pressure release valve? Hoping to get all resolved today. Was going to try to get gears broken in this week and head to off-road park Saturday but can’t see a 500 mile day tomorrow, so no trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Updates: 1) Resonance: Moved rear axle forward a bit and the resonance at hwy speed is gone, guess we didn’t have enough play in the drive shaft for the desired axle location. I don’t really want to buy another DS so I’m ok with the axle a tiny bit forward of centered. 2) Random Stalling/rough idle: Could an improper length serpentine belt cause rough idle and random engine dying? The rough idle seems gone, or maybe just dramatically diminished, since we shortened the belt length. I do still have a periodic belt squeal at full lock, so something still isn't nailed Since we did the PSC. 3) Hasn’t been hot enough outside for me to really test whether we have conquered my heat problem. Will test later this week as we have some 90+ days in the cards. The regear to 5.38 though is dramatic in terms of driving and it does seem to hold OD quite a bit better. Way better Than the 4.88. Makes me wonder if my preps for 37’s are wasted, ie if I have nailed the drivability to I want to risk it by changing tire size. Time will tell and so will I, so for future searchers on 3.8 mods (if there ever are any!) I will have this process out here... All of this has really made me wonder why Jeep doesn’t just throw a turbo or SC on the Rubicons and make a Rubi SRT. I think they would sell the tar out of them and based on other manufacturers I’d think they could nail the tune better than us amateurs! I’d buy that if they didn’t ever offer a V8.
 
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