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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
need some guidance. before i get wheels,tires,interior,flares etc. i decided to get a 4" Rough Country Lift. ive weighed my options of other lifts but i feel the RC lift is the best suitable for me.
ive read somewhere that the kit comes with everything i need. then i read somewhere that id need to change my rear axle if i get a 4" lift, and to purchase a dana 60 rear axle, or a ford 8.8 rear axle.

my question for you guys/gals is what will i need if i upgrade to a 4" RC lift? (minimal offroading, if any itll be mudding. mainly road)

also will the 4" RC lift be all i need to run 33 x 12.5s, or do i need a BL or shackles?

thanks in advance :)
 

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You don't need to upgrade the rear axle for the the lift but you do need to upgrade it for the larger tires. The dana 60 rear is complete overkill for 33's youll be very happy with a 8.8. You can get them out of a 96 and up explorer with disc brakes. They also have 3.07 3.55 3.73 and 4.10 gears and some have a lsd stock in them. Your best bet with the tires is to get a 8.8 with 4.10's in itt already (the lsd would be a nice touch aswell for wheeling) and then regear the front to 4.10s for the tires. You shouldn't need a bodylift over 1 inch to clear the tires. You might not need one at all. With the 4 inch lift though youll get a t-case drop and the driveline angle will be pretty steep. So your at a risk for some driveline vibrations running it with a t-case drop. Some jeeps do ok with it some don't. To eliminate that completly get a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit and a CV driveshaft.
Good luck Ian.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
if i were to get 31/32 x 12.5 tires, would i need to switch the axle?
also, i saw a CV Driveshaft kit from a company called Losi for only 30 bucks, would this be suitable? im a little lost in the area of what i need to get if you havent noticed haha
thanks a bunch Ian
 

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I have the 4" RC lift and have been running it with the stock dana 35 rear axle for almost 2 years. I run 31" tires and I have been able to tuck the tires into the fender flairs so you will get great flex. I have a friend with a 97 TJ with a 4" lift and the dana 35 running 33s with lockers and so far has not had a problem. If you are not too agressive or don't do a lot of mud, you should be OK with the stock axle. The upgrade would be an improvement and be much stronger than stock, but if your goal is trail driving you should be fine though. If you are hard set on a new axle, also look for a dana 44 from a Jeep Cherokee. It will require the same fabbing as the Ford 8.8 for welding new spring perches and parking brake tabs, but are not that hard to find at the local pic n pull yards. Good luck with your project.

Jeff
 

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You will not need a new axle as long as you don't lock your Dana 35. You can avoid a new drive shaft if you use the provided transfer case drop kit.
 

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You will not need a new axle as long as you don't lock your Dana 35. You can avoid a new drive shaft if you use the provided transfer case drop kit.
All jeeps are different some do fine with the lowering kit some don't. We can both have a 93 4.0 auto with the np231j t-case a dana 35 axle and yours could do fine with the drop kit and mine could have vibes. Any cv driveshaft kit thats 30 bucks...well you get what you pay for. Typically the whole setup is around 500 bucks for the slip yoke eliminator and the cv driveshaft. Tom Wood makes great driveshafts hes the guy to go to for that. SYE's (slip yoke eliminators) Currie, teraflex, skyjacker, really and good name brand kit will be good. But try the lift with the t-case lowering kit to see if it works out for you. But be preparred for the worse case senario like always.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks guys, ill buy the lift soon and prepare for the worse.

mike, ill use the transfer case thats provided with the kit and see how that works out for me.

Turdhurdler, thanks for the advice and info, its not hard to get an 8.8 axle for me, so if i need one ill get it but ill see how i do without.

YJKid, thanks for the recommendations on the SYE kit i should get.

My jeep has about 5% of rust on it, some under the windshield, the rest is on a part of the fender. everywhere else its spotless besides some scratches. it was garage kept by the previous owner so everything is in great condition. does this factor help at all? im thinking no but it doesnt hurt to ask
 

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Here are a few tips from my lift... Also, I am totally fine with my stock gearing and 33's. She purs at 55mph around 2,200 RPM. (Was 2,500 before) and it still has plenty of take off power. But, Im also running an automatic w/three speed on the I6.

Heres my list of anything that you'd want to prepare for based on my conversion for the 94'...

If your looking to do this, I'd say Go for it if you have the following I learned it will make it a less stressful job:
1. At least three to four days of other transportation in the event you have troubles that last longer to take care of. Don't jump into it two days before you need the jeep for an important event
2. Acetylene Torches (OMG, Saved the day countless times. A must for older Jeeps)
3. 19mm, 20mm, 21mm Wrenches and Sockets. + the basics...
4. An extra $200.00 or so for unplanned parts replacements. (Tie rod ends, new leaf spring grade 8 bolts, Brake lines and fittings, etc...)
5. Big sturdy Jack Stands. At least (2)
6. A medium to large sized floor jack
7. A cutting tool + flaring tool for 3/16's brake line
8. Another mechanic/technician to help with bleeding brakes, holding parts, fetching tools & trading tasks to share the load.
9. A heated workplace
10. Stainless brake line extensions. Without them, turning the wheel would rip on the brake line. Not much room to work with on the original ones.
11. Pitman Arm puller (or two ) ($31.00 at Carquest)
12. Extra Brake Fluid
13. A radio in the garage to sing along with during the boring tasks.
14. Shock Boots (did not come with the kit)
15. Extra zip strips to double up on the shock boots and hold the flexible brake-lines away from the tire so they don't rub.
16. Grease Gun (Wheel bearing/Chassis grease) Anything you are not replacing should be greased while it is easy to get to. There are several spots throughout the front end where grease zerk fittings are available.
17. Glass cleaner and a rag to clean the windows where you plan to put your new Rough-Country stickers!
18. A new Wrangler-Forum T-Shirt to wear while you work. It helps keep your spirits up when things go horribly bad while working under the Jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hey chris, thanks for the tip and my '88 is also automatic. and thanks for the list, tools arent a problem, i have a garage full of 'em . and also im with you, i cant wait to put that Rough Country Sticker on my windshield haha. thanks again
 
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