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Looking for some feedback on set up and a quote that I received. I've read through this whole thread so I hope I am providing good info and asking right questions. I want to be able to pull a 3000-3500 lb Travel Trailer some decent distances, about 3-6 hours. I am interested in keeping this jeep long term, so investing money in the one I have is fine by me, just trying to be smart.

Have a 2011 JK Unlimited Sport Manual - 3.71 ratio. Should mean I'm rated for 3500 lbs and 350 tongue weight. I have a class III receiver and hitch which are rate for min 4500 lbs Gross trailer weight and 675 tongue weight. (This exceeds what I will be towing.)

I bought this Jeep used recently, and knew that some of the mods were not necessarily done tip top. Overall the ride is pretty rough right now. It has 3.5 in lift and 35 in tires. (I know this should be re geared, especially if I want to tow.) The following is what I was quoted out by a local shop. All prices are labor included.

Re-Gear from 3.73 to 4.88 with revolution gear package, front and rear $1655.28. Is this overkill? Would the next ration down be ok/save me any significant money?

Front Sway Bar - Replace stabilizer Links with JKS part. $229.99. Still on Stock stabilizer bars in the front which are not ideal for the amount of lift.

Break Replacement front and rear - Dynatrac pro break system - $1597.58 - more stopping power for bigger tires and trailer as current is still stock.

Shocks front and rear - Fox 2.0 Adventure series shocks - $630.96 - He did a quick bounce test and it took around 3 bounces to stop. What he would be installing would be stiffer? than what I have helping prevent some rear end sagging.

In addition to these things I would be considering a weight distribution system.

Anything seem crazy or excessive here? How's the pricing? Anything I missed? This will be my first time having work done on a Jeep hence the questions on price/necessity. Just want to keep me and the family safe while adventuring.

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
Price shouldn't change.
I had the 3.6, auto 4.88 gears and tires that measured 35 3/4" and it needed more (less) gear. Regretted not going 5.13. Towing a 3500 pound cargo trailer.
IMO whatever it cost in fuel would be worth it.
 

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Thanks.

Any idea what that might do to price and fuel consumption vs 4.88? I wouldn't necessarily be going 70 but I understand the point. Stepping up one more gets me to the best spot as far as recommendations go.
Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
 

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I’d be reluctant to go 5.13 in that Dana 30, but the 3.8 with 35’s and 3,500 lbs towing will a dog with 4.88’s. I’d take a look at some rear helper air bags if you’re worried about sag
 

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Hey guys!
I’m about to help a friend move into his new place and since I have a tow hitch I offered to help him haul one of those small U-Haul trailers for about 700 miles (aka a trip from his old place to his new place).
I understand that towing capacity mostly relies on gearing that’s why you could get a towing package with 4.10 gears from the factory on a 2009 Jeep Wrangler (i don’t Know about other years).
So I have a 2009 Jeep Wrangler JK (2-door) which came from the factory with the six speed manual and the 3.8 and it’s measly 202 horsepower and 3.21 gears (Dana 30 front and Dana 44 rear). This would put its towing capacity at 1000 lbs (some other sources say 2000 lbs maybe someone can clarify). Since I bought it I’ve put 33 inch tall tires and 4.56 gears with front and rear Detroit Truetracs (LSD), it still has stock suspension unfortunately. So my question is since I’ve installed much lower gears what is my max towing capacity now?

Thank you for the advice!
 

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I am not an expert on insurance but have seen other people recommend that you not exceed your vehicles originally stated tow weight - in case of an accident, insurance might not cover damage if you are towing more than the vehicle’s official tow capacity. I would think that towing also depends on frame/bumper/ hitch construction and rating, brakes - does the trailer have a supplemental braking system?- as well as gearing.
 

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The UHaul place may not rent you the trailer if you show up in your Jeep to pick it up. I've seen them deny renting in some circumstances (like in the case of a convertible)?
 

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You’ll likely be over on both weight AND frontal area. The issue is not gearing as much as the short wheelbase(the tail wagging the dog). As noted your insurance company (or the other guys) might make a big deal out of this “overweight” condition in event of an accident. I wouldn’t do it..
 

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Biggest thing to remember here is to find out from your insurance company what is covered and what is not. Second, and probably the most important is don't overload your tow vehicle beyond the factory specs for your vehicle, say you have a crash and you are found to not be within the factory towing specs you could be sued and your insurance would deny the claim as you are not within factory specs for towing properly. Usually the specs are on the door pillar post sticker, max towing and tongue weight for your vehicle, if not check your owner manual.

trainman
 

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The only mechanical difference between a JK / JKU with a 2,000 lb tow rating and one with a 3,500 lb tow rating is the gears.
But legally, changing the gears on your Wrangler doesn't change the to rating it came with.
That said, I would not have an issue with towing a 2,000 lb trailer with a JK that has the 3.8, 6 speed manual trans, 33" tires, and 4.56 gears.
That is not legally binding advice, just my opinion based on towing with our JKU.

Of note, there is nothing on your Jeep that says what the tow rating is. There is no warning sticker or other such that indicates what the tow rating is.

Also, I moved this thread to the JK General Info section. It may get more input here.
 

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The only concern with your insurance company would be if you experience a mechanical failure while towing. That’s not covered regardless of the vehicle. If you get into an actual accident and have physical damage coverage on the insurance policy for your Jeep, then the actual damage to your Jeep is covered.
 

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What @GuzziMoto said, regardless of what mods you make to your vehicle you can't change it's tow rating, at least currently. By the book you are limited to 1000 lbs. This is important to note because if you are involved in an accident, your fault or not you can be subject to both criminal and civil actions.

With that said we have been modifying vehicles to carry and tow more than they were ever rated for going back at least 40+ years. People tend to forget that the old trucks where pretty limited to fairly low tow ratings by today's standards. We would improve cooling, brakes, strengthen frames, heavier springs, etc to make them pull safely. Of course back then people didn't sue like they do today.

I pull heavy most of the time and the thing I advise people to do when doing so is slow down, 60 mph max. Be very aware of you load balance (tongue weight) and drive smooth.
 

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Insurance generally covers mistakes and even negligence and stupidity. I doubt you would "void" your insurance by towing over capacity. But mistakes, negligence and stupidity are significant in civil actions/cases. If you get in an accident where people are harmed, damages over your liability coverage, and the ease of people harmed making a case for them gets to be an issue. In short if you are towing more than rating our insurance problems probably will be ease for anyone harmed or damaged in asserting damages well above your insurance coverage. And 250K of liability is a pittance in serious injuries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Like everyone has said, your initial tow rating is 1000 pounds according to your owner's manual. However the manual says the tow limit is based on gears and doesn't specify whether those gears were factory installed or aftermarket, so personally I have no issue with going with the higher rating. In the extremely rare circumstance that you'd have to argue that in court I think it would hold up. Of course you know what free internet legal advice is worth :).

There isn't a rating for 4.56 gears, so 4.10 is the closest.


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