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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I under estimated the process of replacing 13 year old ball joints. Not as cut and dry as I initially anticipated but it's finally done. Advice to anyone who's interested...YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR! Started out with Duralast ball joints, learned the error of my ways very quickly and ended up with the "Problem Solver" Moog joints. Tomorrow will be the road test. Good times!

ball joints.jpg
 

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Yep, you got to have the right tools. Mine took 4 hours for right side and three hours for left. I found it pretty straight forward and having a press made it easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
About the same. I'd call it a character building experience. I'm just hoping it eliminates a little more of the infamous death wobble...
 

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Having an impact, even electric, makes a world of difference with the press, I've done it both ways
 

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I refuse to buy anything duralast. Moog makes great parts. Won't put any other ball joint in my fords. Only had to put one in my jeeps before. Didn't take long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank goodness for the breaker bar in the absence of an impact wrench.

*and yes, duralast is crap but money was initially an issue. However, sacrifices needed to be made for Moog all the way around.
 

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OH yes I remember mine. They were a religion changer...Thought for sure that my press was going to bust.
 

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That's funny that you guys are praising Moog.........that brand is GARBAGE now.......worthless. I actually would take the Duralast stuff over it any day of the week when it comes to replacement Jeep parts. I should know.......next door neighbor who is a close friend of mine and myself sell Moog products.........complete garbage.......LOL!
 

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Moog makes great parts.
^ That.
I have a Moog ZJ tie rod upgrade and Moog axle u-joints. Not too expensive and very well made. The u-joints had "Made in USA" cast into the cross part.
One of my jeeping buddies put brand B driveshaft u-joints in his hauler. Both were DOA out of the box. Defective. Not even close. They couldnt pass a visual test. "What the heck is this? look at that".
 

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It wasn't until I got a second press kit from advance auto parts that I was able to move forward. I didn't realize the AZ kit was missing a (key) piece I needed. After that, things went smoothly. But, I got Dana Spicer HD ball joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
**Different folks, different strokes. Between Moog and Timken, I've had no issues whats so ever. But I definitely wouldn't consider Duralast to be a viable alternative.
@ jcizzle...I had the same experience. The first press I got was garbage but the second made the rest of the job simple. Spicer is no doubt a good way to go.
 

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After years of doing ball joints on our volkswagens (our race car has a VW Ball Joint front end), I will never cheap out on ball joints. It just makes what is an already annoying job, worse.

Make sure your press is secured very well when pressing ball joints, and don't leave things on it, things tend to go flying when ball joints are involved.
 

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After years of doing ball joints on our volkswagens (our race car has a VW Ball Joint front end), I will never cheap out on ball joints. It just makes what is an already annoying job, worse.

Make sure your press is secured very well when pressing ball joints, and don't leave things on it, things tend to go flying when ball joints are involved.
Why not a king pin frontend? Ball joint frontends are scorned upon in building buggies.
 

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Timken made in the USA,Moog,not so much.
 

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**Different folks, different strokes. Between Moog and Timken, I've had no issues whats so ever. But I definitely wouldn't consider Duralast to be a viable alternative.
@ jcizzle...I had the same experience. The first press I got was garbage but the second made the rest of the job simple. Spicer is no doubt a good way to go.
Id take Duralast over Moog anyday of the week. Cheaper, lifetime warranty, and what we find is their products overall are better built and last longer. Moog is nothing more than a name, and that name doesn't stand for quality anymore.
 
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