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Discussion Starter #1
Hello friends!!!

Been a while since I've posted, still loving my jeep!

Quick question and it may have been covered already (yea I'm being that guy :tomatoes:). Noticed my coolant reservoir has been slowly disappearing. I've attached a couple pics pics of before and after cleaning the area.

My main question is....should the bleed valve be raised up like that!? Is it loose and maybe that's why it's leaking? If so, how to tighten it, until it's flush? This is a 2014 OEM part.

I figure if that's not the issue and it should remain raised I'm going to need to replace the housing (no biggie think it's like $30 bucks). Just thought I would check with you all before replacing.

Cheers for the read and thoughts :drinks::drinks:
 

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Looks normal
Check the O- ring on the bolt
I wouldn't (over) tighten it as it may crack the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So you're thinking the bleeder screw looks normal, right? No need to tighten? But what about the before pic that shows the coolant coming out slightly? That's normal too? If so, great then maybe it's just lost some coolant over the past five years slowly there and I can just top off the coolant and keep an eye on it??

Thanks!
 

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Early 3.6 tstat housings are notorious for cracking. They updated the design at some point. I’d look at replacing it if it were mine. My 2014 t stat housing cracked at around 50-60,000 miles.
 

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Got it, I had a hunch that wasn't normal. Seems like an easy enough DIY afternoon project for the weekend, thank you!!
 

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Got it, I had a hunch that wasn't normal. Seems like an easy enough DIY afternoon project for the weekend, thank you!!
it is easy and if you are carefull you can do it without loosing but a cup of coolant. The radiator drain plug will give you fits and you swear it is going to break but mine did not.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I see, where is the o-ring on the bleeder screw? I'm not that familiar with this part? Also, if I unscrew it, won't fluid come out all over the place?
 

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It will. So when you unscrew it you would quickly plug it with a finger. You might need an extra hand. You can then examine the O-Ring. It can't be hardened out and the sides have to be round. A very little flatness is OK. You can also sort of feel if the O-Ring is OK by the amount of force needed to crush it when you tighten the bleeder. In case of doubt, just have an extra O-Ring ready to replace it. Or better an extra bleeder screw (Part #5184979AA), that way it is easier without need of an extra hand and you will have certainty that the O-Ring is not the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It will. So when you unscrew it you would quickly plug it with a finger. You might need an extra hand. You can then examine the O-Ring. It can't be hardened out and the sides have to be round. A very little flatness is OK. You can also sort of feel if the O-Ring is OK by the amount of force needed to crush it when you tighten the bleeder. In case of doubt, just have an extra O-Ring ready to replace it. Or better an extra bleeder screw (Part #5184979AA), that way it is easier without need of an extra hand and you will have certainty that the O-Ring is not the culprit.
Brilliant!! I will certainly try this approach first prior to replacing the entire housing since it really looks to be coming from the screw and nowhere else. Really appreciate it!! Dumb question...when I screw in the replacement screw, how tight? Does it fit plush or should it be raised slightly how it looks now in the pic?

Thanks again!
 

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No torque should be mentioned here. These are plastic threads and the tension from the O-Ring is doing the sealing and securing of the screw. So turn until you feel that the screw is tightly seated. You will first feel a soft feeling as the O-Ring is 'crushed'/'seated', then you will find you arrive to a 'bottoming out' feeling. That is when you stop. Maybe you add half of a hint of force. Anyhow if you are in doubt, you can back off and repeat to get the feeling and stop at the 'bottoming out'. Plus the 'half hint'. But it really have to be just a 'half hint', because the next 'half hint' worth of force may already cause damage. Also, you don't need to see the screw moving from adding that 'half hint's worth. It is really just to be sure that you are on the bottom and added the right amount of force.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No torque should be mentioned here. These are plastic threads and the tension from the O-Ring is doing the sealing and securing of the screw. So turn until you feel that the screw is tightly seated. You will first feel a soft feeling as the O-Ring is 'crushed'/'seated', then you will find you arrive to a 'bottoming out' feeling. That is when you stop. Maybe you add half of a hint of force. Anyhow if you are in doubt, you can back off and repeat to get the feeling and stop at the 'bottoming out'. Plus the 'half hint'. But it really have to be just a 'half hint', because the next 'half hint' worth of force may already cause damage. Also, you don't need to see the screw moving from adding that 'half hint's worth. It is really just to be sure that you are on the bottom and added the right amount of force.
Thanks so much, I'll give it a go here this week!
 

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So...got a replacement bleeder screw on hand and went out this morning to check the o-ring and replace the bleeder screw with the new one and new o-ring. Ran into a slight issue...how in the world am I supposed to remove the existing bleeder screw without removing the entire thermostat housing? There doesn't appear to be any room to get a screwdriver in there...thoughts!!??
 

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It may be a bit tricky. You may have to use a strong flat piece of metal and use that with skill. Or you may use a small ratchet with a large flat bit, e.g. like this:
 

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So...got a replacement bleeder screw on hand and went out this morning to check the o-ring and replace the bleeder screw with the new one and new o-ring. Ran into a slight issue...how in the world am I supposed to remove the existing bleeder screw without removing the entire thermostat housing? There doesn't appear to be any room to get a screwdriver in there...thoughts!!??
when I bleed mine I use a dime.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Holy crap, took about 45 min. but I got the original screw out with pliers and a quarter. The original was in there so tight!!! It didn't feel loose until it was the last little turn to pop it off. O-ring looked fine. Replacement screw fit right in and only took a quarter turn to feel set. Maybe the original had expanded over time with heat, etc. Wipped it all clean and will run it now for a bit to see if that fixed it (fingers crossed).

Thanks for all the help!
 

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Been a little while since I replaced the screw. First day, no coolant showed at the screw after changing!!! Now after a few more days it is showing the smallest amount right at where the screw meets the housing and not even enough to drip down from the screw. Thinking this may be "normal" and or I didn't tighten the screw hard enough since I did it with pliers and a quarter. Going to get an offset screwdriver, clean it up and tighten it ever so slightly. Just an update incase anyone cares :)

And thanks again for all the assistance :drinks:
 

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Well, there should not be any coolant there. Not even the slightest amount as the sealing comes from the O-Ring. So keep an eye on it. Othervise it just may be a cracked housing as it was originally suggested by @jadmt. In that case, at least you tired.
 
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