Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

Registered
2020 Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon 2.0
Joined
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hiya Guys,
Need some help and advice please,
After loads of researching and trying lots if different things on my 2004 4.0L TJ I reckon its got to be "Angry Sparrows".
The Chirpy/squeaky noise is definitely from the front and underneath, definitely nothing to do with the engine,
I had a look under my Jeep last weekend, with the front wheels jacked up i gave the front driveshaft a good pull and push and there's no play at all.
So I'm thinking is it a dry centering ball in the front driveshaft,
Tried to undo the 4 8mm bolts that hold the shaft to the tc, unfortunately my weedy 8mm spanner had no chance, so while I'm waiting for my big 8mm spanner to be delivered,
Thought I'd ask a couple of questions.
Firstly when i get these 4 8mm bolts out by the tc and i presume i undo the bolts on the u joint straps the dif end and then the shaft will come off ?
If it seems that the u joints are ok and theres no play in them can i refit them?
If the centering ball is dry of grease would i get away with cleaning the ball up and giving it a good covering of grease ?
Thanks.
 

Registered
Joined
58 Posts
If centering ball = centering yoke You can get the full yoke (instead of rebuilding) and that rubber seal off of Amazon.

You could drive it without the shaft and see if the noise is still there?
 

Registered
Joined
446 Posts
Undo the bolts at the diff end first. Tape your caps on the u-joint so they don't fall off. What I do is then because the shaft isn't attached at the front, I can rotate the driveshaft as needed from underneath to get all 4 bolts at transfer case end. I usually then check by rotating the double cardan to see if there is any binding. If it seems fine, grease the CV ball (needle type tip needed for grease gun) and put shaft back on jeep. If there is binding or obvious wear, of course, replace the necessary components. You would have to remove u-joints from the cardan to gain full access to the ball. Not necessary if there's no play or binding.
 

Registered
Joined
8,397 Posts
When I took apart the CV joint to get to the centering ball, the needle bearings of the centerball went everywhere. I suggest replacing all three u-joints with spicer as well as get a new greasable Spicer centering ball yoke.

Also I had a heck of a time reinstalling the driveshaft to the T/C to get the bolts started. Removing the skid plate made it easy to access and align the bolts to the yoke.

This is what I rebuilt mine with:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X1X91O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAPLVCA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
 

Registered
2020 Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon 2.0
Joined
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ordered the new u joints and centering ball from Amazon ,
Thought I'd get the driveshaft off today and I'd been blasting all the bolts with WD40 all week,
Removed the skid plate, expected problems with the bolts on this but all came off quite easily,
Front end of the driveshaft came off no problem as did 2 of the transfer case end then yes disaster struck my new 8mm spanner gave up and slipped on the bolt rounding off the bolt head,
Then stupidly i tried the 4th bolt and now I've got 2 knackered bolt heads on the tc end of the front driveshaft,
I've strapped up the diff end of the front driveshaft for now and put the skid plate back on,
Whats my chances of being able to press out one of the u joints with the driveshaft still in place, then remove the driveshaft and fit the new centering ball and u joints,
Any ideas please.
 

Registered
Joined
58 Posts
Have a welder? Don't have to be good at it. Just accurate. I striped out one of my skid plate bolts and just welded another both on the head of it to get it out. It's not pretty but worked flawlessly. Was going to take a picture of the bolt. But it's not on my desk anymore. Those are small bolts though and a tight area.
 

Registered
Joined
415 Posts
I've strapped up the diff end of the front driveshaft for now and put the skid plate back on,
When you say strapped up, I hope you mean so it does not lay on the ground or that you put the universal straps on. You can not drive it with the driveshaft disconnected in the front.
 

Registered
2020 Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon 2.0
Joined
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When you say strapped up, I hope you mean so it does not lay on the ground or that you put the universal straps on. You can not drive it with the driveshaft disconnected in the front.
Sorry i didnt explain it very well,
The front end of the front drive shaft is disconnected and I've used a small cargo strap and ratchet to hold the shaft tight against the frame rail,
So just the rear of the shaft is still connected to the transfer case.
 

Registered
Joined
15,683 Posts
Ok why is that
Sure if it drops it becomes a pogo stick and if you don't have decent holding it will tend to rotate in 2hi from the frictional drag in transfer case but a good squeeze from a gloved hand stops it

Now with back of front shaft disconnected on a stick it must spin as front wheels travel down the road but with front of front shaft disconnected and transfer case in 2hi it can remain non spinning while jeep moves down road

I know this as if I unlock all 4 manual hubs on my TJ put TC in gear and tranny in gear with engine running and not pressing clutch rear shaft must spin but front shaft is easily stopped with a gloved hand squeeze mid shaft
 

Registered
2020 Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon 2.0
Joined
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Kulluh for the welder idea,
I don't have a welder but will keep the idea as a back up plan.
 

Registered
Joined
2,897 Posts
If i remember correctly, the TC end bolts go through clean holes in the TC flange and thread into tapped holes on the shaft flange. If you can't get the bolt off easily while the shaft is still attached, cut the head off with a dremel tool or air chisel to get the shaft out. Then you can grab the stub with vice grips and twist it out once you have easier access to the shaft. The torque spec is pretty low on those bolts; it was probably overtightened by the PO if you were able to round off a head.
 

Registered
Joined
1,028 Posts
If by "spanner" you mean an open end wrench or an adjustable wrench please get a box end or closed end. Car guys like 6 point tools, airplane guys (me) prefer 12 point.

J
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top