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So I'm sitting at the dealer, getting my sideview mirror replaced on a 3 week old 2013 JKU. A guy is buying the same and getting a lift installed, new tires, driveshaft, etc as part of the purchase. So I asked him how high he was going, and he's getting the 3" lift and putting on 35's. I asked him if he was looking at changing gears. He asked the sales guy, who promptly told him he didn't need to with 3.73s (and they don't do it here anyway). what is recommended? I know from looking some say 3.73 is fine, others say performance suffers with 35s. I'm thinking about a 2.5" lift and bigger tires and trying to decide if I need to think about gearing or not. it's a daily driver, but I can take the wife's car for extended client trips (4 hours one way).
 

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I just installed a 2.5" lift and 35" tires.

I can definitely see why people re-gear but at the moment I don't think it's a necessity for me.
On flat level roads, I don't notice a huge decrease in power.
Going up hills, even a small incline, you'll feel the sluggishness for sure.
 

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I have the 3.6 penastar in my 2012 JKU with 35" Mtrs 2.5" lift " lift doesnt really matter" and steal bumpers all around.. I'm geared at 3.73 and have no problem's with hills, starts, or going 75.. sure it may down shift, sure i wish I had 4.10's but its got plenty o power..

Pre 2012 or "3.6's and 5 speed autos will have a different story to tell..


I may re gear when i go to 37's though 5. something or other...
 

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3.73 gears with 35" tires is a little better than having the factory 32" tires with 3.21 gears. But it's barely adequate. You'll get decent highway mileage at the cost of not having much "pep" off the line.

I have 3.21 gears and will be completing the 4.56 gear swap this weekend in anticipation of getting my 35" tires early next week.

If you already have 3.73 gears, you can get by with 35's until you just want better acceleration or crawling. If you step up to 37's you'll really want to change the gears. If you install lockers you'll want to change gears while you're in there. But you can probably live with the performance 3.73's give you.
 

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I have 315x75x16 duratracs under a 2.5" teraflex lift and it is drivable by all means but hilly roads it will drop down to third and hold 75mph topping a hill. Still has plenty of pep, but I am regearing to 4.56's without a doubt.
 

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Had 3.73s with my 2.5 and 35s (with procal) on my 2013 JKU. It's my DD and was all right. It was very noticeable going up hills.

I regeared to 4.56 a couple months ago and I have to tell you the difference is night and day. I noticed a difference just driving it out of the parking lot. Thankfully, I was able to test drive my buddy's rig before doing the regear. That definitely helped me make the decision.
 

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Had 3.73s with my 2.5 and 35s (with procal) on my 2013 JKU. It's my DD and was all right. It was very noticeable going up hills.

I regeared to 4.56 a couple months ago and I have to tell you the difference is night and day. I noticed a difference just driving it out of the parking lot. Thankfully, I was able to test drive my buddy's rig before doing the regear. That definitely helped me make the decision.
What's your rpm's like at 70mph?
 

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I've got a 2.5 lift with 35's and 3:73 gears. Did notice a loss in power. Plan to regear in time but I got the aev pro cal and that helped a lot. Plus not very expensive either 140 ish.
 

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How did the procal help???
All it did for me was fix the speedo, there was 0 performance added on my ride.
Do you have an auto or manual? Correcting the speedo on autos will change the shift points back to their original spot. Helps a lot.
 

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35s and 3.73 is right on the border of "can't stand it anymore" and "it's not the best, but I can live with it". You'll get both responses. For me, I lived with it for about 4 months, then couldn't stand it. The biggest thing for me was the large gap in revs between gears (2012, auto), the engine being revved really high before shifting to start lugging in the lower revs.

I went to 4.56s, and extremely happy. It can actually accelerate now, and merging on the freeway isn't a exercise in maximizing the length of the on-ramp to get to speed. Also got .6-1.0 mpg increase. BrainB- I'm about 2650 at 70. Right at 2500 at 65. Engine doesn't seem to mind.
 

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I got my Alloy USA gears and lockers through a contact in the business and got a screamin deal. I'm doing the install with the help of a guy in the club who charges $100 an axle. That's less than buying the few tools I would need to do it myself.

Figure a full regear to cost anywhere from $1500 to $3000 or more depending on what all you do at the time. I'm doing chrome molly shafts and selectable lockers with my gears which raises the parts price considerably but no extra labor.
 

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derf said:
I got my Alloy USA gears and lockers through a contact in the business and got a screamin deal. I'm doing the install with the help of a guy in the club who charges $100 an axle. That's less than buying the few tools I would need to do it myself.

Figure a full regear to cost anywhere from $1500 to $3000 or more depending on what all you do at the time. I'm doing chrome molly shafts and selectable lockers with my gears which raises the parts price considerably but no extra labor.
From what I've read on here, a gear install isn't something for the inexperienced to do, yea??
 

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From what I've read on here, a gear install isn't something for the inexperienced to do, yea??
Right. I am working with a guy who has done several. He has a few specialty tools that you can't do an install without, including a massive 1" drive socket set to use with the 5 foot long cheater pipe so you can get enough torque to do the crush sleeve.

For 95% or more of the people out there, having a shop do it is the only practical way.
 
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