I want to replace my tie rod. Looks like just going with a Moog will cost $225 after tax. Anything available that’s better for just a little more cash? I have 17” wheels with 4.75” backspacing
I have a Stinky Fab alum tie rod. My 17" wheels have 4.75" and 4.61" of backspacing respectively (summer alloy/winter steelies) and no problem clearing the tie rod ends.Barnes: 4.5” bs or less
Ahh, but stinky fab says “at least 3.75” bs”
I have a Stinky Fab alum tie rod. My 17" wheels have 4.75" and 4.61" of backspacing respectively (summer alloy/winter steelies) and no problem clearing the tie rod ends.
I beat the crap out of that tie rod, and it's still good!
I have a Steer Smarts tie rod assembly. I have hit the center steel tube several times without any bending issues. But last time I was wheeling, it took a hit to the LH tie rod end, just outboard of the tube, and it bent the tie rod end itself.If you wheel at all, upgrade to an aluminum tie rod! You may second guess it until that first time you really bash it on something. After that first time you'll never run steel again.
Both the Rare Parts and Steer Smarts Yeti tie rod ends are heat treated forgings with 1.25" threaded ends. Just wondering - what about the RP ends makes them stronger?It would take way more force to bend the Rare Parts forging than it would to bend a more pedestrian end like Steer Smart. Anything can bend, but there is an obvious difference in strength there.
The Rare Parts tie rod end used in the Fusion 4x4 (and others) is a 2.5 ton tie rod end. It is bigger and stronger. It is physically more massive.Both the Rare Parts and Steer Smarts Yeti tie rod ends are heat treated forgings with 1.25" threaded ends. Just wondering - what about the RP ends makes them stronger?
Edit: I'm asking specifically about the threaded area, which is where my SS tie rod end bent. It seems that the RP and SS ends are essentially the same in that area. Of course, I don't know what material and heat treat each is using, so there could be a difference there.
Right, the joint itself is bigger (stronger), but both still use a 1.25" threaded connection to the center tube. Mine bent in the threaded area, so that's what concerns me most.Perhaps it would have made no difference, but I would think a 2.5 ton end would be stronger than a 1.5 ton end.
That's what I was thinking as well. Just not sure how much the flexing helps if the impact is out at the tie rod end. It's got to help some.The other aspect is the aluminum tie rod is designed to flex, and that flexing is supposed to keep things from bending. It is a way of absorbing the energy without causing a failure.
I don't think it is worth the effort, given Fusion 4x4 sells the whole tie rod for $550. But if you want, here is a link to 2.5 ton RP ends.