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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im looking to put 33's or 35's on my LJ, This is my DD, I really don't do much wheeling. i drive to the mountains a couple of time a year and that's about it for now. Nothing Crazy

This is my first time putting a lift on a jeep, so Im not sure if this is overkill for want i need.

AEV 3" Springs
Rancho RS9000XL Shocks
JKS Adjustable trackbars Front & Back ( do i really need adjustable? can i use my stock ones? )
JKS Adjustable Bumpstops
Control Arm ( do I have to replace my stock one? and do i need all 8 replaced? )
JKS 1" BL/MML

What else am i missing?
 

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yes you can use your stock track bars. the JKS front would need 2" front bumpstop extension anyway to prevent hitting the tie-rod. I'd suggest going with the Currie TJS or TJJ front track bar if you're going to run 2" front bumpstop, or stick with the stocker (weld a 1/8" reinforcement plate on the stock axle side mount and simple drill a new hole to recenter the axle). in the rear you will need a track bar relocation bracket, regardless of whether you get an adjustable track bar or not. The stock bar clears the gas tank mount slightly better, but the JKS will hit unless you move the rear axle forward. instead in the rear, i'd suggest Currie here again - they have apparently come out with a new adjustable rear track bar + bracket combo that clears the gas tank mount better than previous versions, although I haven't seen it myself.

as for control arms, you don't HAVE to replace them, but it is a strongly recommended. I'd suggest Currie, Savvy or Rokmen for those.

with bumpstops you've got a bunch of options...cheap to pricey, all depends how fancy you want to get. theres nothing wrong with the stockers, as long as you extend them properly for the lift shocks.

Also check out the Currie/Savvy 3" lift, which uses springs comparable to the AEV's you're looking at. Might be able to get the whole combo cheaper and easier from Savvy than gathering stuff together from various vendors.

Savvy Offroad
 

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My daily driver is on 35's and I wouldn't go less if you also wanna go have some fun too...:punk:

And remember that you have an LJ not a TJ the 35's under the extra 10" of jeep makes for a great ride and play too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes you can use your stock track bars. the JKS front would need 2" front bumpstop extension anyway to prevent hitting the tie-rod. I'd suggest going with the Currie TJS or TJJ front track bar if you're going to run 2" front bumpstop, or stick with the stocker (weld a 1/8" reinforcement plate on the stock axle side mount and simple drill a new hole to recenter the axle). in the rear you will need a track bar relocation bracket, regardless of whether you get an adjustable track bar or not. The stock bar clears the gas tank mount slightly better, but the JKS will hit unless you move the rear axle forward. instead in the rear, i'd suggest Currie here again - they have apparently come out with a new adjustable rear track bar + bracket combo that clears the gas tank mount better than previous versions, although I haven't seen it myself.

as for control arms, you don't HAVE to replace them, but it is a strongly recommended. I'd suggest Currie, Savvy or Rokmen for those.

with bumpstops you've got a bunch of options...cheap to pricey, all depends how fancy you want to get. theres nothing wrong with the stockers, as long as you extend them properly for the lift shocks.

Also check out the Currie/Savvy 3" lift, which uses springs comparable to the AEV's you're looking at. Might be able to get the whole combo cheaper and easier from Savvy than gathering stuff together from various vendors.

Savvy Offroad
I don't have the welding resources so i need this to be 100% bolt on. I see a good amount of people using the Currie/Savvy lifts and giving it good reviews. I would love to get one of the lift kits from them but $1800+ is 60% of my budget. I'll checkout the parts you recommended above. What parts can i keep stock for now without messing anything up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My daily driver is on 35's and I wouldn't go less if you also wanna go have some fun too...:punk:

And remember that you have an LJ not a TJ the 35's under the extra 10" of jeep makes for a great ride and play too...
That's nice!
 

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Might want to consider gearing too.... some say it is fine, some hate it...
 

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What parts can i keep stock for now without messing anything up?
at 3" of lift with the LJ, you won't need an SYE & CV rear driveshaft. that'll save some money.

you don't need JKS bumpstops, which will save some money. properly extended stockers cost about $30 tops (you will need a sawzall, or better yet a band saw).

you don't need to replace the front upper control arms right away...you won't extend them anyway, they'll remain at stock length.

you can buy used wheels on local forums or craigslist, that will save a ton of money. you can even buy used tires if you're careful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
at 3" of lift with the LJ, you won't need an SYE & CV rear driveshaft. that'll save some money.

you don't need JKS bumpstops, which will save some money. properly extended stockers cost about $30 tops (you will need a sawzall, or better yet a band saw).

you don't need to replace the front upper control arms right away...you won't extend them anyway, they'll remain at stock length.

you can buy used wheels on local forums or craigslist, that will save a ton of money. you can even buy used tires if you're careful.
Thanks UnlimitedLJ04!! You've been a great help.

I have 2 more questions.

1. what's a "stocker"?
2. with a 3" lift and 33", do i need a BL/MML?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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I have 2 more questions.

1. what's a "stocker"?
2. with a 3" lift and 33", do i need a BL/MML?
1. stocker = stock/factory vehicle or stock/factory component. in that context its a stock track bar.

2. yes, i would do the BL+MML. for clearance, so you can run less bumpstop extension for the tire size. the MML will also help with the driveline angles, and later down the road if you decide to get a SYE, you'll be that much more prepared for a tummy tuck.

breakover angle is what hurts the LJ's off-road, and tucking the belly up should be pretty high priority. I installed a high clearance belly skid + BL + MML + gas tank skid + 31s long before ever thinking about a lift and big tires. that combo worked really well for the majority of wheeling in the mountains, where I go. I'd suggest considering that combo strongly...probably less expensive & less hassle than your current plans, no need to regear or change speedo but not as much "cool" factor because the tires are smaller, yet it's equally as capable & functional.

here's stock 30" tires, 1" BL, 1" MML and a JeepMedic tummy tuck & engine skid.

skid is 1/4" steel and 2.25" below the frame vs the stock 4.65".

If you like this route, undercoverfab.com sells some nice tummy tuck & engine skids that would fit the bill, for quite reasonable prices.
www.undercoverfab.com
 

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1. "Stocker" is just referring to the stock hardware.

2. Short answer, no. You will be able to clear 33" but you would need more bumpstops than if you had a body lift to keep the tire from hitting your flares. Also consider getting new wheels as your stock ones may rub as they have a lot of backspacing compared to aftermarket wheels.

Not wanting to insult your knowledge but just in case you don't understand backspacing. Backspacing is the distance the mounting surface is from the inside of the wheel. More backspacing will put the wheel more towards the inside of your vehicle while less will put your wheels further outside you vehicle. The main reason this is important is that if you use wide tires they may rub on your frame/fenders/suspension. And with less backspacing they will be spaced out far enough to not interfere.

Other things you may or may not need are extended sway bars and possibly longer brake lines. Easy way is to redrill and tap a bolt hole a few inches lower for the brake hose mount.

You don't need an expensive rear track bar. Get a relocation bracket. Also you don't need those very expensive adjustable bumpstops. Just do some measurements after you mount the tires with the springs out and buy some cheap exact length bumpstops.

Or you can do simple math to estimate how much you need. 33" tires, difference of 4" from stock 29" tires, 2" radius difference. To stop your tire at the same point as stock you would need 2" longer bump stops. Add 1" BL then you may be able to run 1" longer bumpstops. Though once you start putting it less than stock other things may not clear. Like your front track bar, drag link or even running out of travel in your shocks. Best to buy and install the estimated length then, with your springs out and frame on jack stands cycle the axle up and down and see if anything hits and adjust from there.
 

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Don't forget the other factor in the bumpstop extension equation, and that is your collapsed shock length. Both tire size and collapsed shock length need to be considered.

Example- When I lifted my LJ: front shocks are .5" longer collapsed, and I went from 30" to 31" tires- .5 bumpstop extension works for both. But the rear shocks are 1.5" longer collapsed, so I needed 1.5" extension regardless of tire size. So given the same shocks, but with 33's, I would have to have 1.5" extensions front and rear.

This is not an exact science, but a starting point. The real test is to flex it out and see what is going on and adjust accordingly. As mentioned, sometimes front trackbars and rear trackbar relocation brackets will dictate bumpstop extensions too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
1. "Stocker" is just referring to the stock hardware.

2. Short answer, no. You will be able to clear 33" but you would need more bumpstops than if you had a body lift to keep the tire from hitting your flares. Also consider getting new wheels as your stock ones may rub as they have a lot of backspacing compared to aftermarket wheels.

Not wanting to insult your knowledge but just in case you don't understand backspacing. Backspacing is the distance the mounting surface is from the inside of the wheel. More backspacing will put the wheel more towards the inside of your vehicle while less will put your wheels further outside you vehicle. The main reason this is important is that if you use wide tires they may rub on your frame/fenders/suspension. And with less backspacing they will be spaced out far enough to not interfere.

I really didn't understand backspacing and I was just about to do a search on it. RIght now I have MOAB wheels if that makes any difference ( 5" backspacing? )





Other things you may or may not need are extended sway bars and possibly longer brake lines. Easy way is to redrill and tap a bolt hole a few inches lower for the brake hose mount.

You don't need an expensive rear track bar. Get a relocation bracket. Also you don't need those very expensive adjustable bumpstops. Just do some measurements after you mount the tires with the springs out and buy some cheap exact length bumpstops.

Just a relocation bracket would work?

Or you can do simple math to estimate how much you need. 33" tires, difference of 4" from stock 29" tires, 2" radius difference. To stop your tire at the same point as stock you would need 2" longer bump stops. Add 1" BL then you may be able to run 1" longer bumpstops. Though once you start putting it less than stock other things may not clear. Like your front track bar, drag link or even running out of travel in your shocks. Best to buy and install the estimated length then, with your springs out and frame on jack stands cycle the axle up and down and see if anything hits and adjust from there.
Still a little confused on the math part. but this does help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
1. stocker = stock/factory vehicle or stock/factory component. in that context its a stock track bar.

2. yes, i would do the BL+MML. for clearance, so you can run less bumpstop extension for the tire size. the MML will also help with the driveline angles, and later down the road if you decide to get a SYE, you'll be that much more prepared for a tummy tuck.

breakover angle is what hurts the LJ's off-road, and tucking the belly up should be pretty high priority. I installed a high clearance belly skid + BL + MML + gas tank skid + 31s long before ever thinking about a lift and big tires. that combo worked really well for the majority of wheeling in the mountains, where I go. I'd suggest considering that combo strongly...probably less expensive & less hassle than your current plans, no need to regear or change speedo but not as much "cool" factor because the tires are smaller, yet it's equally as capable & functional.

here's stock 30" tires, 1" BL, 1" MML and a JeepMedic tummy tuck & engine skid.

skid is 1/4" steel and 2.25" below the frame vs the stock 4.65".

If you like this route, undercoverfab.com sells some nice tummy tuck & engine skids that would fit the bill, for quite reasonable prices.
www.undercoverfab.com
Thanks! it's crazy, there's a lot of different ways to do a lift that makes it so confusing.
 

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There are rear relocation brackets that will put your rear axle in the right spot for your lift. I run a JKS adjustable front track bar, my stock one made my axle stick out to one side a noticeable amount also it was worn down. Don't run any type of drop pitman arm or front track bar relocation bracket. This will cause bad bump steer if you don't do it right.

To make it easy just stick with 2" extended bumpstops. When you get everything installed you can adjust from there. You could even get extra long bumpstops then cut them down to the size you need.
 

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For the math, say that when your axle is pressed against the bumpstops you have the minimum distance you would want in between your stock 29" tire and your fender. If you put on 33" tires you increased the diameter by 4" and your tire radius is increased by 2". Meaning that your tire would get to the minimum distance with a gap of 2" between the bumpstop and coil bucket. To prevent your tire from hitting your fender you would have to increase the bumpstops by 2" there for stopping them at the same minimum distance as with stock tires.

Of course this is just an estimate using no other variables.
 

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Here is my buddies LJ with RC 4"2.0 lift on 35's. Extended bump stops where installed in time for this trip.
L4J Tillamook '11 040.jpg
 
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