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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So its been awesome weather here all winter until today and I get the call that the TJ died in the road. O-yea its snowing over 8" on the roads and its 0*.
So my wife ran down to the post office, she put gas in and went about 3 miles and it just died in the road.
I got down there and it wants to start but will only sputter and die.
I have checked for codes and there are none.
Could it be the gas? We have gotten gas here for over 10 years and never had a problem.
Its a 2000 and never had a single problem? Any thoughs?

The fun was rope towing it home on the snow and ice up roads, with a wife that not very keen on dead sticking a Jeep with 33's on thourgh the mountain roads. We had a few pucker factors, I for got to tell her not to mash the brakes on me.:eek:
 

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The way to tell if there is fuel in the system is by checking for fuel pressure and the presence of fuel at the fuel injector fuel rail on the driver's side of the engine. This is what all of your fuel injectors are plugged into and what provides their fuel.

There is a Shraeder valve, like an overgrown tire inflation valve, on the fuel rail. It should be located kinda toward the front of the fuel rail, with a black black plastic cap screwed onto it. Unscrew the cap and the valve will have a little push-pin in it just like a tire valve does. Place an absorbant rag underneath and then press on the pin to see if gasoline sprays out, it won't spray a huge amount so no worries. If there is fuel and fuel pressure present in the fuel rail, it's not the fuel pump.

If there is no fuel pressure when you check, cycle the ignition key a few times to allow the fuel pump to pump and send fuel up to the fuel rail. If you're in a quiet location when you do this, you should hear the fuel pump cycle on for about 2 seconds and then shut off. If there was no fuel pressure at the Schaeder valve, you'll need to cycle the fuel pump on multiple times to give it enough "on time" so it can get the fuel up to the fuel rail. Once that happens and you verify the presence of fuel pressure at the fuel rail, try starting it.

If there is fuel pressure at the rail and it doesn't start, I'd next suspect the Crankshaft Postition Sensor or the Camshaft Position Sensor. Both of which provide critical timing signals for the computer and if either is missing, the engine will die suddenly.
 

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Sounds just like what mine did. Water in the fuel. Just like you, I had bought gas at this place for years without a problem, but seals on the stations fill valves can go bad. With heavy snow and runoff they could have water in their fuel tanks. Figured out what it was, called the station and told them what had happened and they were more than happy to send a wrecker to get it and had it towed to be fixed at their cost. Mine wasn't the only one they got to pay for, and they quickly shut down that grade of fuel to save anyone else from having a problem.
 

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if you can, before you spend the money on a fuel pump, find a heated garage to "store" the jeep in at least overnight if not a day or two. then try to fire it up. if it does fire up then you have water in the fuel, and it just simply froze, plugging the line.

If it works, i would recomend putting a fuel treatment product in your fuel like "heat".
 

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If these in-tank fuel pumps can fail so easily and maybe leave you stranded out in the boonies miles from nowhere, would it be advisable to install an electric pump under the hood before the problem rears its ugly head? Can an electric pump work if the in-tank pump fails?
My 2001 Wrangler only has 59,000 miles on it and I thought I could expect many more trouble-free miles but after reading several of these posts about failing fuel pumps I'm beginning to wonder.
 

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So there's no fuel pressure in the fuel rail no matter what you do with cycling the ignition key as suggested?

If you can't get any fuel pressure at all, you can get one pretty inexpensively from www.rockauto.com as I did and just installed last week. I got the Spectra fuel pump for $160 which includes a new fuel pressure regulator and fuel gauge sender. So in addition to it fixing my slow start problem, my fue gauge is finally accurate again! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Jerry for all the help.
Got to thinking a bit, and for the past 3 weeks I have been doing quite a bit of highway driving in the jeep and it has been idling high and not drooping down in the revs when I shift. I had thought it was my thumb throttle hanging up, then I checked the foot cable and cleaned it too but it was still sticking from time to time. Could that have been a tattle tale sign of the pump starting to go?

Was looking through sites and came across for an alternative for a pump. Does this work and if so what do you do with the one in the tank?
Mallory Fuel Pump - Universal Product Clearance
Universal


MALLORY 250 SERIES HIGH PERFORMANCE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP, IN-LINE -- A high pressure 12-volt fuel pump that delivers 250 plus GPH free flow at 12.5 volts and 230 plus GPH at 6 PSI; Number 8AN inlet and outlet port, number 8AN return port; Includes a complete hardware package for easy mounting; Features precision CNC-machined pump housing to ensure longer life than cast housings; Its gerotor design reduces noise versus louder vane and turbine pumps and eliminates vane breakage problems; All its aluminum components are anodized for corrosion and wear resistance; Service parts available for use with alcohol/methanol applications; For gasoline; Use regulator part number 4200, 4201, 4300M, 4301, or 4316M for best performance; With Mallory's 1-year limited warranty.
Type: Universal Product Clearance
 

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That won't work, you need the type of fuel pump the TJ has inside the fuel pump. Plus it'd take longer to install that type of pump and get it working than it would to simply drop the tank and install the correct pump. It can be done in an hour with nothing more than a 1/2" wrench.
 

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$233? Did they not have the same brand Spectra pump in stock for your Jeep that I found for $160 for my '04? Airtex is the cheap pump that I would go with.
 

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I almost forgot, you do need a strap wrench to get the fuel pump's big nylon plastic lock-down ring off and then back on tightly enough again.

Any strap wrench like this one will work...



It's for that big white ring you see below that holds the fuel pump in the tank.
 

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I almost forgot, you do need a strap wrench to get the fuel pump's big nylon plastic lock-down ring off and then back on tightly enough again.

Any strap wrench like this one will work...



It's for that big white ring you see below that holds the fuel pump in the tank.

Geezsh.... now you tell us.

Just kidding. Thanks for the info Jerry. I am learning lots on this forum.

BobO
 
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