On the stock style inverted y steering its actually where the knuckle that connects the drag link to the tie rod that pushes on the bushing or axle mount. Mine tore the cotter pins off of my right disco with a 2 inch lift just doing u turns, I had enough when it tore the bushing out of my brand new discos when I went to 3.5 and I cut it off after I upgraded to a much heavier cross over steering and the drag link would grind on the bump stop axle mount when I was making right hand turns on the flat street. Like I said before there is a larger axle side mount and a smaller one that came factory, if you have the misfortune of having the larger one all you can do is cut it and relocate it with one that sits behind the drag link instead of on top of it. I even took it by the local 4wd shop and showed it to the owner who has been working on jeeps for 20+ years. He said he had never seen it before but it was indeed stock.
That is exactly what happened....
I believe that the problem is relatively common and according to a few mechanics I have asked, many folks aren't even aware of the idea of disconnecting the sway bar and many usually never need to... but when their sway bar axle bracket gets broken, they never even realize it until they get the vehicle serviced.
Then if they take it to their Jeep dealer to get it repaired, the dealer wants to sell them a new complete axle housing as they can't sell the individual OEM mounting brackets or perches separately. (I even asked). So they take it to a welding shop and if they still have the upper half of the broken part, it then either gets welded or braze-welded.
These are at best a 80% fix as this is a cast part and will usually never be repaired as strong as new.
There is not a new OEM replacement part with the exact same geometry even available, so if the fixed (welded or brazed) part fails again the only solution is cutting BOTH of the factory brackets off and replacing them with aftermarket versions like those from Rubicon Express, or Terra Flex because both of these versions re-position the bolt hole somewhat away from the factory location; hence the need to do both sides.
I think disconnecting them when wheeling the really rough trails will keep it from happening even with the factory originals.
Also with the aftermarket brackets improved geometry, and the fact that they are water-jet cut cold-rolled plate; it makes them much more durable and much more weldable.
It is still a major butt pain.
