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Discussion Starter #1
I'm curious...
Both my brother and myself have had to repair or replace a passenger side front swaybar axle mount. I have a '98 TJ w/ a 5.5" long arm and running 33's. His is a 2000 TJ w/ a 4" lift and also running 33's. It seems obvious why this is happening.... and what the solution is... but...

Has anyone else had similar problems and if so, what suspension and tires are you running? Wheel offset might be helpful to know too...

Consider this a brief impromptu survey.

Thanks.
 

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Why have you needed to repair or replace them? Are you disconnecting your sway bar offroad? I bent mine but that's before i had my Antirock.
 

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Do you mean the steel bracket welded to the axle that the antiswaybar's link bolts to is bending? I've had both of those sizes of lifts and had two different types of front antiswaybars but if I'm interpreting what you're saying correctly, I have never had that problem you're describing.

Posting a photo of the problem here would be helpful for diagnosing whatever the issue is.
 

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When mine broke the trail had gotten rougher than we expected and the disconnects were still connected... and yes, they are the brackets welded to the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bump!
 

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I had to cut mine off because the steering linkage was ripping off my end link at frame bushings and when I upgraded my drag link actually rubbed the mount. I'm only at 3.5" of lift so I checked some other tj's out at the local 4wd shop. Their links did not stick forward as much as mine did and were noticeably smaller by just enough to clear the steering. I'm not sure if this is the answer you're looking for but apparently tjs came with at least two different sizes of axle mounts for the end links. Not sure why.
 

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I believe that a very hard (very slow) right turn while the drivers side front tire crawled up and over a large boulder caused the tie-rod/drag-link knuckle to pry upward on the protruding part of the bracket where the lower end of the disconnect attaches. :facepalm:

(I tend to let a tire ease up and over large rocks that I can't avoid, rather than bashing the axle or punkin' on them.)
 

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Moabrubi said:
Can you take pictures? You got issues if your tie rod is hitting your link mount.
On the stock style inverted y steering its actually where the knuckle that connects the drag link to the tie rod that pushes on the bushing or axle mount. Mine tore the cotter pins off of my right disco with a 2 inch lift just doing u turns, I had enough when it tore the bushing out of my brand new discos when I went to 3.5 and I cut it off after I upgraded to a much heavier cross over steering and the drag link would grind on the bump stop axle mount when I was making right hand turns on the flat street. Like I said before there is a larger axle side mount and a smaller one that came factory, if you have the misfortune of having the larger one all you can do is cut it and relocate it with one that sits behind the drag link instead of on top of it. I even took it by the local 4wd shop and showed it to the owner who has been working on jeeps for 20+ years. He said he had never seen it before but it was indeed stock.
 

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jrussblues said:
On the stock style inverted y steering its actually where the knuckle that connects the drag link to the tie rod that pushes on the bushing or axle mount. Mine tore the cotter pins off of my right disco with a 2 inch lift just doing u turns, I had enough when it tore the bushing out of my brand new discos when I went to 3.5 and I cut it off after I upgraded to a much heavier cross over steering and the drag link would grind on the bump stop axle mount when I was making right hand turns on the flat street. Like I said before there is a larger axle side mount and a smaller one that came factory, if you have the misfortune of having the larger one all you can do is cut it and relocate it with one that sits behind the drag link instead of on top of it. I even took it by the local 4wd shop and showed it to the owner who has been working on jeeps for 20+ years. He said he had never seen it before but it was indeed stock.
Another correction, would grind on the end link axle mount, not the bump stop axle mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On the stock style inverted y steering its actually where the knuckle that connects the drag link to the tie rod that pushes on the bushing or axle mount. Mine tore the cotter pins off of my right disco with a 2 inch lift just doing u turns, I had enough when it tore the bushing out of my brand new discos when I went to 3.5 and I cut it off after I upgraded to a much heavier cross over steering and the drag link would grind on the bump stop axle mount when I was making right hand turns on the flat street. Like I said before there is a larger axle side mount and a smaller one that came factory, if you have the misfortune of having the larger one all you can do is cut it and relocate it with one that sits behind the drag link instead of on top of it. I even took it by the local 4wd shop and showed it to the owner who has been working on jeeps for 20+ years. He said he had never seen it before but it was indeed stock.
That is exactly what happened....

I believe that the problem is relatively common and according to a few mechanics I have asked, many folks aren't even aware of the idea of disconnecting the sway bar and many usually never need to... but when their sway bar axle bracket gets broken, they never even realize it until they get the vehicle serviced.

Then if they take it to their Jeep dealer to get it repaired, the dealer wants to sell them a new complete axle housing as they can't sell the individual OEM mounting brackets or perches separately. (I even asked). So they take it to a welding shop and if they still have the upper half of the broken part, it then either gets welded or braze-welded.

These are at best a 80% fix as this is a cast part and will usually never be repaired as strong as new.

There is not a new OEM replacement part with the exact same geometry even available, so if the fixed (welded or brazed) part fails again the only solution is cutting BOTH of the factory brackets off and replacing them with aftermarket versions like those from Rubicon Express, or Terra Flex because both of these versions re-position the bolt hole somewhat away from the factory location; hence the need to do both sides.

I think disconnecting them when wheeling the really rough trails will keep it from happening even with the factory originals.

Also with the aftermarket brackets improved geometry, and the fact that they are water-jet cut cold-rolled plate; it makes them much more durable and much more weldable.

It is still a major butt pain.
 
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