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Alright. Thanks to COVID I have had time to work on the Jeep. It’s been down for far too long. I’ll start at the beginning.

months ago the Jeep was running great no issues what so ever. I bought and installed a 4” liftand slapped 35’s on it drove it out of the shop and it ran fine. 2 days later it developed a stutter, it almost felt like when youlet the clutch out to fast and the Jeep trembles but it was very aggressive and violent...it would sputter and die. At first I could get it to start back up, drive for a few seconds and then it would do it again. Now, it won’t start at all. To make things worse, now it has developed electrical where none of the dash panel will show any information when the car is on. I have replaced pretty much all the things I can think of, I need help.

replaced:
Battery
CPS
TPS
Ignition coil
Distributor cap / rotor
ECM/PCM
Spark Plugs

what am I missing? I have read that the fuel pump shouldn’t be a factor as these TJ’s have indestructible fuel pumps. Truth?
 

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Maybe take a look at battery cables to rule out one of the obvious possibilities. Inspect the clamps, connectors, ends of the braided wires going into the battery clamps, ground connections and connectors. Look for corrosion, give everything a good cleaning and make sure connections are tight. Apparently, the TJ is super-sensitive to voltage, especially having solid connections to ground.

Good luck! I hope you find a quick fix.
 

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Sounds exactly like failing fuel pump

Whoever said the pumps never fail is spinning a tall tail

If it has a port for a gauge slap one on and check the rail pressure or just keep throwing random parts on it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Fuel pump
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pull the fault codes from the ECM using a code reader. Must be at least one stored code.
All I get is “no link” when trying to read. Before I got no faults. Now it won’t read at all. I ran a test for fuel pressure and I am not getting a reading. I don’t even hear the pump prime. What’s everyone’s take on where to get a fuel pump?
 

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So....when you connected the battery, did you clean the posts and terminals so that shiny new lead meets shiny new lead on the two? You know the inside of the terminal is shiny meeting shiny post on both terminals? I don’t understand why your symptoms have changed?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So....when you connected the battery, did you clean the posts and terminals so that shiny new lead meets shiny new lead on the two? You know the inside of the terminal is shiny meeting shiny post on both terminals? I don’t understand why your symptoms have changed?
Battery is new and the cables are free of corrosion. My symptoms have not changed, the Jeep still doesn’t start. I ran a guage off the fuel rail and got no reading for pressure and I can’t hear the fuel pump prime when turning the key. Checked the fuel pump relay and it looked fine. So maybe fuel pump is contributing the issue.
 

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I would check for a momentary 12 V (about 2 seconds) on the vehicle side of the fuel pump connector, at least that will eliminate the pump as there are other sensors that are involved in permitting the fuel pump to operate.
 

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You did a 4" lift, and then it when down hill......
Check the electrical connection at the gas tank (where tank wires plug to the power wires). Make sure it is plugged in and locked. If it is loose, it can lose connection and fuel pump will not run.
(ask me how I know)
 

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Alright. Thanks to COVID I have had time to work on the Jeep. It’s been down for far too long. I’ll start at the beginning.

months ago the Jeep was running great no issues what so ever. I bought and installed a 4” liftand slapped 35’s on it drove it out of the shop and it ran fine. 2 days later it developed a stutter, it almost felt like when youlet the clutch out to fast and the Jeep trembles but it was very aggressive and violent...it would sputter and die. At first I could get it to start back up, drive for a few seconds and then it would do it again. Now, it won’t start at all. To make things worse, now it has developed electrical where none of the dash panel will show any information when the car is on. I have replaced pretty much all the things I can think of, I need help.

replaced:
Battery
CPS
TPS
Ignition coil
Distributor cap / rotor
ECM/PCM
Spark Plugs

what am I missing? I have read that the fuel pump shouldn’t be a factor as these TJ’s have indestructible fuel pumps. Truth?
 

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You said you replaced the CPS (Crank Position Sensor). Did you replace it with a genuine Mopar part or an aftermarket part such as something from AutoZone?

I had this problem on my TJ a few years ago. It would just stop running, get towed home and start up the next morning, run for a month and then it would let me sit again. Replaced the CPS, worked fine for a few days then all over again I had the no start problems,.

Took it to a shop that actually did some research and found that there was a lot of reports of aftermarket CPS units failing soon after installed on whatever repair data base they used. Replaced it with a genuine Mopar unit and its run great ever since.
 

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Alright. Thanks to COVID I have had time to work on the Jeep. It’s been down for far too long. I’ll start at the beginning.

months ago the Jeep was running great no issues what so ever. I bought and installed a 4” liftand slapped 35’s on it drove it out of the shop and it ran fine. 2 days later it developed a stutter, it almost felt like when youlet the clutch out to fast and the Jeep trembles but it was very aggressive and violent...it would sputter and die. At first I could get it to start back up, drive for a few seconds and then it would do it again. Now, it won’t start at all. To make things worse, now it has developed electrical where none of the dash panel will show any information when the car is on. I have replaced pretty much all the things I can think of, I need help.

replaced:
Battery
CPS
TPS
Ignition coil
Distributor cap / rotor
ECM/PCM
Spark Plugs

what am I missing? I have read that the fuel pump shouldn’t be a factor as these TJ’s have indestructible fuel pumps. Truth?
When the lift was done did they drop the belly pan to line the drive shaft back up? I'm thinking they may have damaged a line to the fuel pump or some such when they did so... I'm not a big believer in coincidences and find it odd it would be just a couple of days after a lift and I know my TJ with a 4" lift had the pan dropped lower about 2" and it resulted in the upper radiator inlet to crack because of the stress since they didn't loosen the hoses first so they could reposition. All that said jjust to say, things shift when they are shifted and all based on my assumption that you've had the belly lowered.
 
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