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Discussion Starter #1
The guys at a local garage said that the clanging in my drive train is from the yoke and yoke flange in the rear. They said parts are worn. Replacing those and a new UV joint will be $550!! Even after that, there may still be something else. Won't know until this is replaced and check for noise. Something clanigng that loud, IMHO, should be obvious when you find it. Shouldn't it?

Is that a fair price?
 

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Do you have tools and any skills?
I ask because I would suggest changing the drive shaft u-joints out as that is usually the wear point. they should cost about $15 each. I will take about 2 hours to do the work and that should be worst case. HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do you have tools and any skills?
I ask because I would suggest changing the drive shaft u-joints out as that is usually the wear point. they should cost about $15 each. I will take about 2 hours to do the work and that should be worst case. HTH
Yes, I have already changed out the farthest rear UV joint. When I finished, there was a small amount of play still in the yoke. However, I stopped there. Should I just pick up vehicle and replace remaining 3?
 

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I would pick it up. Pull the front drive shaft out and then drive it to see if the problem is still there. If it is replace the other rear u-joint. If it goes away once you pull the front, change both the fronts and see if it goes away. Personaly anytime I drop the drive shaft to change a joint I change both. If one is bad chances are they both are close to gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would pick it up. Pull the front drive shaft out and then drive it to see if the problem is still there. If it is replace the other rear u-joint. If it goes away once you pull the front, change both the fronts and see if it goes away. Personaly anytime I drop the drive shaft to change a joint I change both. If one is bad chances are they both are close to gone.
So, I can pull the front drive shaft and drive without any damage or leakage? Learn something everyday....
 

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I agree with Hackle, if you can do it youself go for it. Thats alot of money being charged for the amount of work involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I agree with Hackle, if you can do it youself go for it. Thats alot of money being charged for the amount of work involved.
Yea, I can do the UV joints. I am having trouble diagnosing problem, so I took to shop to track problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, news is in.....the carrier is bad. Evindently, the arsehole who owned the jeep before me had exploded the rear end, patched it and sold it to me. I have to have a new carrier.....DAMN!!!

Lets hear some advise guys and gals
 

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does it have a stock dana 35? if so..don't bother..look for a dana 44 from a comanche pu or a cherokee..some of the factory tow packages came with em..or look in a junk yard..or go for an 8.8 swap..the dana 35 is just not worth fixing..take it from me
 

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I agree with Fly for the most part but I don't know how you use your YJ or what size mud tires you have. No matter what the answers are I would not waste money installing a locker you will just trash the 35 quicker.
If you drive mostly on the road and when offroad or on road for that matter stay off the skinny pedal and run a max of 33" tires (that size is still on the edge). Make the call. Personaly I would spend the money on a new axle it will cost less in the long run. HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I agree with Fly for the most part but I don't know how you use your YJ or what size mud tires you have. No matter what the answers are I would not waste money installing a locker you will just trash the 35 quicker.
If you drive mostly on the road and when offroad or on road for that matter stay off the skinny pedal and run a max of 33" tires (that size is still on the edge). Make the call. Personaly I would spend the money on a new axle it will cost less in the long run. HTH

Hackle, I have 31.5 in tires. I would love to build it like some of the rigs I have seen (like yours ;-O ), but I am always thinking about the day I sell it. I don't want to take a beating by loosing money on the upgrades. I definitely like and have planned on lockers at some point, so I don't want to do something that would prevent me from doing that. If I put a 30 in the back, would it fit ok? Would it do ok with a locker. I have to replace the entire rear end due to the carrier and I want to get it right so that I don't reqret what I do now, later.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
does it have a stock dana 35? if so..don't bother..look for a dana 44 from a comanche pu or a cherokee..some of the factory tow packages came with em..or look in a junk yard..or go for an 8.8 swap..the dana 35 is just not worth fixing..take it from me
Is the 8.8 the beat bang for the buck? I have some mechanical skills, so could I install the 8.8 without much trouble?
 

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Iquois, What gear ratio are you running in you rig right now?

For a YJ an 8.8 is VERY simple to install. It's just a matter of cutting off the stock spring perches and shock mounts and welding on new ones that fit your setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Iquois, What gear ratio are you running in you rig right now?

For a YJ an 8.8 is VERY simple to install. It's just a matter of cutting off the stock spring perches and shock mounts and welding on new ones that fit your setup.
a 3.07 (No wonder i never use fifth gear!!)
 

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Ah, with you being at 3.07 then you are going to have a tougher time doing a new rear axle economically compared to fixing your 35. 8.8's come in 3.73 or 4.11 so you'd have to re-gear your front to match.
 

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You can always do the rear change over and leave the front drive shaft out until you can regear it. If you keep the jeep you will gear it at some time, this way you only pay for the front gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
DAMN!!! I need a sharp object to dive on!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Any 8.8 ford rear assembly will fit, correct?
 
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