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I have a lifted 2016 jk rubicon. I have the full quadratic aluminum modular skid plate system, except for the evap skid. I believe the 2016 evap canister is tucked up a little better than the earlier jks.

So worse case, I rip off the evap on the trail. I don't think this will affect my ride.

I will have to replace the evap canister. I think it is a $160 part. So my dilemma is, do I spend $100 or so to relocate or protect a $160 noncritical part?

Do I have this wrong?
 

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I have a 2014, which shows the same canister as the 2016. I decided to put an evap skid on mine because I didn't want to risk the damage. IIRC, back when I did it, I bought a Q-Tec branded one that was on sale for around $60. I also didn't want to relocate the canister because I didn't want any possible issues with tampering with an emissions control device. Anyhow, I'm not sure the skid has actually done anything, because there are no sign of impact on it, but it gives me some peace of mind.
 
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I have Rock Hard skids front to rear, and they've taken quite a beating over the past 4.5 years. I did not put a skid on my evap system, and to date, it has never received so much as a scratch. I wouldn't worry about it myself. And my JKUR isn't even lifted.
 

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Up to you..

Do you want to spend monies for peace of mind and never have an issue. Or the possible time you are glad you had it.

This is up to you.

I do not have one. Nor see me needing one.
 

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I plan to do the relocation. It can be as simple as unbolting the present metal bracket, moving it over the axle, drilling some holes and bolting it in. I have noticed that the OEM metal bracket has definitely taken some hits already. Mine's a JKU which I'd think would be more prone to being bashed in a rock garden than a 2 door.
 

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I did not buy an evap skid, or relocate the evap canister.
Now I am replacing the evap canister to deal with a check engine light. The likely source of the issue is the evap canister taking a hit and breaking right at one of the mounting holes. I was able to limp it along with sealant for a while, but it is tripping the light again. And since eventually I will need it to be able to pass emissions I need to resolve the issue. Besides, I don't want to drive around with a check engine light on. If a more important issue came up I wouldn't know.
Do what you want. But I certainly wish I had spent less money to relocate it. Once I get to where the light is out I will relocate it.
 

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Free mod is to slide it over 1 hole away from the driveshaft to buy some time while you decide.
This video shows moving it 1/2 hole, for some reason I thought I moved mine a full hole.
 

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That helps if your issue is the drive shaft hitting it. Our issue was not that but a big ol' rock.
If you lift and don't re-center the rear axle, or if the extra travel moves the arc the rear axle travels in closer to the evap canister, moving the canister and cover over can help. That is more an issue of the cover for the evap canister taking out the rubber boot on the drive shaft, not so much likely to actually damage the evap canister itself.
The thin stock cover isn't very tough and it can flex if it hits a rock. The canister is rigid plastic and doesn't seem to like when the cover flexes.
 

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I have a Poison Spyder Evap Skid. I don’t think it has taken any hits but it does look very cool.
 
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My skid plate set came with the evap canister skid and I'm happy it did. My evap skid has taken a bunch of hits.

If you wheel hard or spend a lot of time in rocks, it's a no brainer.
 

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I will have to replace the evap canister. I think it is a $160 part. So my dilemma is, do I spend $100 or so to relocate or protect a $160 noncritical part?
Spent the $100 for Rockhard protection as the OEM bracket supporting the evap canister ain't no skid plate. Simple two bolt step that really can protect you from on or off road hazards.
 

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I relocated mine for about $10-15. You don't need to buy a kit. I modified the stock skid. Just flatten out the arms to and trimmed it till it fit up by the back of the gas tank. Used the parking break anchor as one bolt and sunk two bolts from the cab. The $10-15 was for some hoses and fittings to reroute the tubing. Bonus in that it actually sits up higher than the relocation kits. Just be sure to mark the hoses and the evap or you might cross them and that will toss a code and its the same one as having a leak so you will likely be chasing a red hearing till you figure that out.

My muffler now occupies the space where the evap used to be.
 
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