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I picked up a 2005 LJ with zero rust (Arizona life) other than the drivers seat frame and exhaust- lol.. I more than likely won't drive it in winter here in Ohio as its a second vehicle but am considering undercoating it or should I just bite the Bullet and por-15 it? I used Fluid film on my FJ and it worked pretty good I just don't want Rust on this new to me jeep.

Thank you
 

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I store my 2014 JK in the winters and my frame is not treated, I don't think you need POR15/Chassis Saver or anything so long as you shove it into storage before the first snow and do not bring it back out until the rains wash the salt residue away. This is my 4th season with my JK, my frame is black and has no issues. I touch up any off-road scars with VHT semi-flat blat epoxy.
 

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Its easier to protect it from the start.
I don't DD mine either, and usually only a couple snow-wheeling trips when the weather is cruddy.

I drilled 1/2" drain holes in the bottom of the frame, near each lower control arm mount so water doesn't stay trapped in there. Cleaned & dried inside the frame.

Then I used Eastwood Internal frame coating in the frame and torque boxes. (3 cans total did a great job on coverage). Then chassis black on the outside.

I'm personally not sold on the POR15, reviews are hit/miss if you search other forums.
 

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What about Cosmoline?
 

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I picked up a 2005 LJ with zero rust (Arizona life) other than the drivers seat frame and exhaust- lol.. I more than likely won't drive it in winter here in Ohio as its a second vehicle but am considering undercoating it or should I just bite the Bullet and por-15 it? I used Fluid film on my FJ and it worked pretty good I just don't want Rust on this new to me jeep.

Thank you
POR15 adheres well to rust, not to other paint or to bare metal. If there is no rust, then degrease it, scuff the frame with scotchbrite, then paint it with a good catalyzed polyurethane (using proper PPE, of course). You can even buy it in a spray can from Eastwood. For the inside of frame, spray what you can reach with paint, then spray the rest of the inside with oil and/or fluid film. Be aware that fluid film is very difficult to remove, so once you use it, you are committed to it. I would also paint the inside of the rockers and the entire bottom. And lift up the carpet; there is probably paint worn down to metal from grit, so you will want to add some paint there, to protect from rust. Also, where the fender supports meet the fenders, the paint wears, traps salt and moisture, and then rusts through the top of the fender. So you might want to remove them and add some more paint there.

I'm in the same boat as you; I bought a clean southern Jeep, and did all of the above when I brought it up here.
 

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I'd fluid film until you start to see some good surface rust. Then I'd seal it with Por15.
Bad idea. POR15 works very well when applied to dry, clean, rusty metal. It does not adhere well if that rusty metal has been sprayed with oil or fluid film. Fluid film is made from lanolin (the oils from sheep wool), and it is very difficult to remove from a porous rusty surface, so paint won't adhere well.
 

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Its easier to protect it from the start.
I don't DD mine either, and usually only a couple snow-wheeling trips when the weather is cruddy.

I drilled 1/2" drain holes in the bottom of the frame, near each lower control arm mount so water doesn't stay trapped in there. Cleaned & dried inside the frame.

Then I used Eastwood Internal frame coating in the frame and torque boxes. (3 cans total did a great job on coverage). Then chassis black on the outside.

I'm personally not sold on the POR15, reviews are hit/miss if you search other forums.
I drilled holes there, too. I don't know what Jeep was thinking, by not giving water a place to drain.

POR15 works great when used properly. Bad reviews come from people who used it over other paint, or on a rusty surface that wasn't dry or clean enough.
 

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ohio myself as well, the brine they treat highways with now is 10x more corrosive than the old rock-salt, I scored an extra clean rig too and have no plans of letting that stuff into/onto it if I can help it.... sealing the bottom side is a must if your gonna drive it between nov and april
 

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Bad idea. POR15 works very well when applied to dry, clean, rusty metal. It does not adhere well if that rusty metal has been sprayed with oil or fluid film. Fluid film is made from lanolin (the oils from sheep wool), and it is very difficult to remove from a porous rusty surface, so paint won't adhere well.
Very good point! Thanks for that information.
 

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I just bought an 04. Appears to be no rust through issues. there are spots that have that reddish tint to it. you can see where it was under coated at one time. probably why there are no rust holes.
I live in Indiana so I am definitely going to do something with the underneath.
Do you coat everything? are there parts you don't coat?
how does one do this without a lift?
 

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I picked up a 2006 LJ a little over a year ago. It is in really good shape. I'm on the beach a lot. I cleaned it really well. Sprayed everything with Fluid Film. Not much cost for a little preventative work.
 

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Bad idea. POR15 works very well when applied to dry, clean, rusty metal. It does not adhere well if that rusty metal has been sprayed with oil or fluid film. Fluid film is made from lanolin (the oils from sheep wool), and it is very difficult to remove from a porous rusty surface, so paint won't adhere well.
I like that idea. Are there any pics of where to drill the holes on the JK?

OP- I would rustproof ASAP. Operative word being rustproof, not undercoat. Undercoatings can actually trap moisture as the coating ages and cause rust. Rustproofing like FF or Cortec VpCI-368 [what I use] won't do that.
 

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My 04 LJ had good amount of surface rust under the body when i got . I cleared it with wired wheel and painted with Chassis Saver black. So far it's good. One has passed on it.

Inside the frame i did with EASTWOOD. Looks good so far.

Water washing under the body when ever it smells snow.
 

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Its easier to protect it from the start.
I don't DD mine either, and usually only a couple snow-wheeling trips when the weather is cruddy.

I drilled 1/2" drain holes in the bottom of the frame, near each lower control arm mount so water doesn't stay trapped in there. Cleaned & dried inside the frame.

Then I used Eastwood Internal frame coating in the frame and torque boxes. (3 cans total did a great job on coverage). Then chassis black on the outside.

I'm personally not sold on the POR15, reviews are hit/miss if you search other forums.
same here, make sure you clean the inside of the frame, if there are any rust flakes in there use a magnet to fish everything out......afterwards every time you wash it, run some water through the frame.. coat externals with Fluid Film one a year
 

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If you truly don't ever drive it in the winter, there is no need to undercoat it. The best thing about storing your rig over the winter, is that none of the fasteners corrode either, making it a true pleasure to work on.
 
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