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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I went out in the desert with a few friends for a bon fire I can attest that it was cold as hell on the way home ( 50* out and driving topless and doorless at 65-70mph with shorts, flip flops, and a short sleeve shirt everyone else had tops and doors or enclosed jeeps lol )







 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Today I talked to the guy whom I bought my spare fender from to see if he had any Axles from a 2.5L Jeep and told him I was thinking about selling my Hardtop for a Soft top He offered a proposal of taking my hard top and giving me a set of axles for $100 so I may go that route considering I will be buying a super top Or I could trade him my top for a 4" lift he already has ........... decisions decisions
 

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Great pics. Looks like everyone had a great time.

Friend of mine had the same Jeep back in the day. What did we call it you ask? Papa Smurf!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Great pics. Looks like everyone had a great time. Friend of mine had the same Jeep back in the day. What did we call it you ask? Papa Smurf!
The name is fitting for this color.

I'm just anxious to get my lift ordered ( 4.5" rc with their new military wrap springs ). And the super-top but Im not looking forward to its install since the po stripped a few torx bolts I'll need to remove to install some brackets which I'll replace with hex head bolts . Once the top comes in I'm going to trade the local guy my hardtop and a little cash for his 4:10 axles
 

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I rounded a few out on my Jeep when I changed the windshield gasket. Easiest thing for me to do was use a die grinder, knock a little paint off the head of the bolt & tack weld a 1/2" bolt on it. Then just use a 1/2 socket & back it out. Replace with a hex bolt.

I'm slowly replacing all of my torx heads for good grade 5 hardware.

Getting the old suspension off might pose a bit of a problem for you as well, as the leaf spring bolts love to rust to the bushing sleeve. I had to cut all of my spring hanger bolts out. Total PITA, but worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I rounded a few out on my Jeep when I changed the windshield gasket. Easiest thing for me to do was use a die grinder, knock a little paint off the head of the bolt & tack weld a 1/2" bolt on it. Then just use a 1/2 socket & back it out. Replace with a hex bolt.

I'm slowly replacing all of my torx heads for good grade 5 hardware.

Getting the old suspension off might pose a bit of a problem for you as well, as the leaf spring bolts love to rust to the bushing sleeve. I had to cut all of my spring hanger bolts out. Total PITA, but worth it.
The leaf spring bolts wont be an issue at all this is originally a Southern California vehicle I've already had the bolts out when I replaced frame shackle bushings a few months back ! :bop:

As for the torx I do not have access to a welder so I'll just use my bolt extractor set
 

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Took the Yj out to play today. My Gastank skid and hitch got their asses kicked








I was checking out that hitch and how low it was. I am chewing on what to do with mine. I wanted to center my hitch in the channel that I am going to weld in to replace the flimsy crossmember, but I think that is going to be way to high. Hmm...
 

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A few days after I brought it home I had to take advantage of the Beautiful weather outside .

So the obvious thing to do was Detail the Jeep, Wash, Claybar, Buff the paint , Then to remove the Hardtop and Doors. Once that was done it was time to work on the interior a little. I had replaced the stock shift knobs with the ones I had in my last YJ, Rewired the head unit so it worked, I had also installed my son's car seat so he could enjoy the Jeep with me . After I was finished with that I went back to working on the exterior and Bedlined the T-case skid, Frame, Front bumper, Rear crossmember, and Hitch. Then on to the Underside I Relocated that useless government mandated BS like Trackbars and Swaybars into the Trash can

After I was done doing my projects my buddy came over to check out "The Smurf" We started talking about the running issue so we popped the hood and started to tinker with the carb. We had found a broken Vacuum line under the carb. So we took some extra line off another hose and cut a small piece to install on the bad line. After that it wanted to idle but the Idle set screw was set to like 300 rpm so it died. Tyler had started it up and I had adjusted the screw a little and have it Idling at 750-800 rpm and it runs on its own now. But it has a slight stumble while Idling but when driving its smooth as silk so I am sure the timing is off. I'll address that over the weekend.



Can I pick your brain real quick? Can you elaborate on the removal and disposal of the trackbars and swaybar? I will be reinstalling my axles next week when my lift kit shows up and my frame is painted up. I assumed I would paint and reinstall the track and swaybars. In the very little research I did, I believe I found that the trackbars keep the axles centered, which I believe would take shear loading off of the leafs. The swaybar bolts to the frame, so I guess that is a vertical loading cushion? I figured out the use of the swaybar quick discos for articulation, and was figuring on going with those in the future, but do not need to order them now, they are not necessary to get my rig back on the road, (89 YJ). So what's the deal? Can I just leave these bars off for some kind of gain? What would I be gaining? What would I be losing? What would I be risking? Thanks a lot. Your post is the first I have heard of this, so excuse my ignorance. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Can I pick your brain real quick? Can you elaborate on the removal and disposal of the trackbars and swaybar? I will be reinstalling my axles next week when my lift kit shows up and my frame is painted up. I assumed I would paint and reinstall the track and swaybars. In the very little research I did, I believe I found that the trackbars keep the axles centered, which I believe would take shear loading off of the leafs. The swaybar bolts to the frame, so I guess that is a vertical loading cushion? I figured out the use of the swaybar quick discos for articulation, and was figuring on going with those in the future, but do not need to order them now, they are not necessary to get my rig back on the road, (89 YJ). So what's the deal? Can I just leave these bars off for some kind of gain? What would I be gaining? What would I be losing? What would I be risking? Thanks a lot. Your post is the first I have heard of this, so excuse my ignorance. Thanks again!
I never ran swaybars on my 95 YJ and It was lifted anywhere from 3.5"-7" over that period of time, I just drove it like a Jeep and took turns slow Swaybar inhibits wheel travel Trackbars are not needed on leaf sprung vehicles they inhibit travel of the suspension and leafsprings keep the axles centered if you remove trackbars the jeep will ride much much smoother. So what you'll gain is a more plush ride and better wheel travel offroad since the springs will be able to do their job

In the diagram below you can see in FIGURE A the standard view of the YJ front axle as seen from behind, with a cutaway view of the frame rail above the axle (In this particular picture its shown with a spring over axle setup, however the same applies to spring under axle)

You see the pivoting ends marked 1 and 2 are pivot points, permanently attached to the frame rail, and axle respectively. They do not move.

Looking at FIGURE B you will see when the suspension flexes, the leaf springs can only travel up (compress) or down (droop). In this example I show the trac bar mounted on the frame (1) and show what arc the trac bar will travel in, the pivot point being the center of point 1. You see that in a perfect arc, pivot point 2 cannot stay mounted to the axle at the CAD housing, however being that pivot point 2 IS cast into the housing it cannot move as suggested in the example, and has to stay mounted at the top of the CAD housing. This is why your suspension will bind and not function as any other leaf sprung axle not made by Jeep intended the suspension type to cycle.

The trac bar when following its normal arc will only allow the suspension to droop or compress so far before it becomes the limiting factor, and must then pull the frame rail to compensate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
We got a little lake effect snow last night

My refund check is due to arrive tomorrow so it probably won't register at the bank until Thursday. Once it hits I'll be ordering my lift

(4.5 rough country with the military wrap springs ) and a bestop supertop. When the top comes in I plan on driving about an hour south to trade my hardtop for some 4:10 axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·


Ok Guys I ordered the lift a few minutes ago !

It ran me 519.00 shipped from Jeepaddons-Chris That is 30 Cheaper then RC and RC even wanted 65 for shipping it was a no brainer
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Today I bought some tires off my Neighbor, They are 35x12.50 General Grabber Red Letters mounted on American Racing ATX Slots wheels . He had the tires siped and they have maybe 1,200-1,500 miles on them at most, He discovered his unibody is torn in 2 places so its just sitting . I'll be installing the wheels and tires onto my XJ until I get the D35 swaped out with a 8.8 rear. Until that happens I'll be running the 33" KM2's off my XJ

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Quick preview of things to come. I tried to test fit the 33's to see how the flares would cover them , and see if I could get away running the 33's stock for a week or two. The verdict is since I have to turn and there are bumps in the road that's a big negative !
 
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