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Discussion Starter #1
Went out on Saturday and had a good time but I did run into one problem. Since I got the MetalCloak lower control arms for the front I found that when completly tucked I rubbed the paint off my inner fender liners and bent my sway bar disconnects. This did not happen prior to the MC LC's being installed. Not happy about the parts being bent but it is nice having the extra flex. Now to figure out what to do to stop the problem. I figure I can do 1 of 3 things to fix the problem.
1. Add bumpstop to limit the flex
2. Add 1" spacer to the springs to raise the front a bit
3. Add spacers to the wheels to get them away from the quick disconnects on the swaybar
What do you think would be the best route?
 

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are you running any bumpstop now? the easy fix would be add bumpstop definitely the cheapest. the sway bar bent from where you have its stored when disconnected? what is the backspacing on your wheels? is it what Metalcloak recommends for their lift?
 

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Yeah, I am running 2" of bumpstop which worked fine prior to the lower control arms being installed. With the 2" of bumpstop I had no rubbing or damage to the sway bar disconnects. The sway bar did not bend, the disconnects did when they were in the stored position. I have the teraflex quick disconnects. I do not have pictures, my Jeep is at home, I am at work. 4.75" of backspacing on the wheels. I do not have a MC lift, my Jeep has a combination of parts from multiple manufactures, I get what I think is best for the application. Thanks for the response. I think I did not account for the extra flex when installing the lower control arms and paid for my mistake by bending the sway bar disconnects. No worries though, it happens.
 

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lol, we all pay for our mistakes, one day or another lol. guess thats just the name of the game. hehe. Well, personally, i like alot of articulation so i wouldn't want to add anymore bumpstop, but if it is damaging parts then yes. You can consider going with metalcloak adjustable bumpstops. add some and see how it works, add more if need etc. If its not hitting the inner fender that bad i would try to play with the disconnect and see if you can adjust the location to avoid the tire at full stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
MC bumpstops is what I have now, I have the 3" and 4" puck sitting at the house, but like you I like the articulation. Moving the mounting location for when they are secured in the offroad position would be the easiest way to fix the problem, bungy cords or zip ties may be enough to fix the problem. Its barely rubbing the liner so that is not that big a deal. My Jeep life consists of wheel on the weekend, fix during the week. Luckily it is not my daily driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Arms have little to do with flex. Yes they will bind less and with both sets not steer the axle as much. Remove the coils and cycle the suspension to see what you need for bumpstop. What's your shocks specs ? Backspacing on wheels ?

I don't see the one set of arms being your issue.
Since I have had the same suspension setup for over a year and have never had the problem until I installed the MC lower control arms I will disagree that they do little for flex. 4.75" of backspacing on the wheels.

This is not a new lift and this Jeep sees a lot of trails. What specs are you looking for on the shocks, total length on the shock when extended, total length when compressed, weight of the shock? I dont know any of those things, I never bothered to measure them before they were installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just the lowers. The front is now at about 3.25" of lift with the added weight of the bumper and winch. I have the 3.5 MC dual rate springs.
My Jeep is at home and I am at work so I will not be able to upload a picture until later today of the damage. First two pictures are prior to the MC Lower Control arms. Second two pics are from Saturday and the third is of it level.
 

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looks good! you're one step ahead of me each time i comment! haha. Have you considered pulling the entire sway bar and running a anti rock? i think that would be the best option. Not cost effective.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
looks good! you're one step ahead of me each time i comment! haha. Have you considered pulling the entire sway bar and running a anti rock? i think that would be the best option. Not cost effective.
I actually have but they are a little lower on the list of upgrades because I want to do both at the same time.

1. Gears and locker is going on next. I have the gears at home, just waiting on the locker for the rear to arrive and they will be good. I have an Aussie locker in the front now.
2. I will be doing the truss and inner C gussetts.
3. The rest of the control arms.
4. 37" tires
5. Flip kit for the draglink.
I will have to bumpstop for the 37s and is one reason I was considering doing the bumpstop now or the 1" spacer on the springs so that I can get the extra space for the 37s.
The cost is not as big a concern as the overall value of the upgrade. I know the value of the anti rock, so the price makes sense. It only makes sense to me though to do both at once.
I think the order is right. Of course all that can change because of broken parts. The only reason I have the lower fronts is because I bent one on the trail about a month back.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wondering how close you were before the arms. Possible the lowers freed up travel just enough to rub.

Awesome pics btw !!
Before the control arms I was rubbing about a 2" section of paint from the inner fender liners, but not making contact with the sway bar disconnects. Now I have more like a 6-8" section of paint rubbed.
 

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Before the control arms I was rubbing about a 2" section of paint from the inner fender liners, but not making contact with the sway bar disconnects. Now I have more like a 6-8" section of paint rubbed.
Understood.

Makes sense I guess. CA's will allow the axle to move more freely, and maximize articulation-already available with your coils and shocks. MC's coils are freakin long and assuming you are running at least 11" travel shocks. Add the Duraflex joint and bam.

I know you mentioned getting uppers eventually. With both sets of arms, the axle can be moved for/aft centered in the wheel well. This would help I too I believe.
 
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