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This all good info. I think I have it narrowed down to the adapters mentioned above. I've seen them used with the stock bumper and I feel as if that will work in my case. Don't know if I can swing enough cash for a nice bumper then get the tow bar I want. I'm looking at a blue ox , forget the model, but it's a hitch mount. Close to 600 which is fine. Any preference towards blue ox or roadmaster?
Both Blue Ox and Roadmaster are generally highly recommended and have very good products. I don't think you would go wrong choosing either one. Be sure to consider some kind of auxillary braking system and break-a-way. That's the reason I went to the Redy Brute. The whole thing was $9something (a few years ago) and it included the braking system. Far less expensive than buying a tow bar system plus the braking system.
 

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I have a Hidden Hitch tow bar for mine. I had one of the guys in the shop make some new brackets for me to attach to the welded shackles (like I see Warrior makes).
Works like a charm!






 

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Both Blue Ox and Roadmaster are generally highly recommended and have very good products. I don't think you would go wrong choosing either one. Be sure to consider some kind of auxillary braking system and break-a-way. That's the reason I went to the Redy Brute. The whole thing was $9something (a few years ago) and it included the braking system. Far less expensive than buying a tow bar system plus the braking system.
Those the two I've seen used the most, I currently have a bid on a roadmaster falcon with an add a brake for 500. That's a smokin deal from what I have seen them go for. I like the warrior mounts and think I will go with those on a stock bumper setup.
 

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That's a nice setup! For some reason I just don't want a ball mount, I'm really liking the hitch mount. I'm driving from Alaska to Ohio and just want to be worry free as much as I can anyway. Also thinking about pulling drivelines out to eliminate that tranny issue altogether.
 

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Also thinking about pulling drivelines out to eliminate that tranny issue altogether.
You won't have to worry about that. Just follow the procedure in your manual. Transfer case in neutral and transmission in park (auto) or gear (stick), and key to first position that unlocks steering (depends on year). Wranglers are one of the most popular vehicles pulled behind RV's and tons of people pull them thousands of miles without transmission issues.
 

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You won't have to worry about that. Just follow the procedure in your manual. Transfer case in neutral and transmission in park (auto) or gear (stick), and key to first position that unlocks steering (depends on year). Wranglers are one of the most popular vehicles pulled behind RV's and tons of people pull them thousands of miles without transmission issues.
I have a question. Why does the a stick shift need to be in gear if the transfer case is in neutral?
 

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Mostly old school..!
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I have a question. Why does the a stick shift need to be in gear if the transfer case is in neutral?
If the transmission is in gear, it will hold the input shaft of the tcase stationary. It has to do with lubrication (or the lack of it), from what I have heard. Someone can correct me if I am wrong. I do it because the owners manual says to...and I always do what I'm told, just ask my wife...:whistling:
 

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For those wanting a cool license plate holder who have a winch with a roller fairlead, you can use a pair of D-cell size Maglight flashlight holder clips. They snap perfectly & very securely over the l/r fairlead rollers to hold the license plate.

Attach the two clips to a piece of aluminum cut to the size of the license plate, then attach the license plate to the piece of aluminum. The plate comes off & is reinstalled in 1-2 seconds.
Liked this one so much, I went right out and did it...! Thanks.
 

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You don't mess around do ya. Looks very nice.
Just happend to have a pice of aluminum sitting there in the shop that was the exact length of the license plate and about a 1/2" wider. Had to go to Ace Hardware anyway, and they had the maglite holders. Last time we went off road I had torn up my flip down holder and had to get a new one so I figured this would solve that problem, plus I wouldn't have to deal with holding the license plate down when I tow the Jeep...win, win, win...:thumb:
 

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I vote for readybrake

I use the ready brute elite tow bar and combined braking system. I think it is the easiest and cheapest route if you plan to add a supplemental braking system. I did some extensive research on some of the RV forums before I decided on this one.

The system also comes with a LED that runs from the ready brake to the dash of the motorhome to tell you when the brake system is engaged. I use the LED and ran it to the jeep brake lights light signal so I would know if they locked up. Installing all the brake lines and wiring to a couple hours, and now I hook up and disconnect in less than 5 minutes.

Readybrake RV Tow Bars and RV Surge Braking Systems for Car Towing - NSA RV Products

If you have any questions IM me.
 

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I use the LED and ran it to the jeep brake lights light signal so I would know if they locked up.
I also use the Ready Brute Elite and also use the brake light switch in the Jeep to trigger the RV dash monitor light, although the power for it comes from the RV. Not only does it let you know if your brakes are locked up, but it let me know on our last trip out that my cable (between motorhome and Jeep) had broke. I noticed the monitor light not coming on when braking so I pulled over to see why. Had that light been wired to the switch in the Ready Brake, lthe ight would have still been working even though the cable had been broken.
 
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