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OK. I have some death wobble action going on. I've read some very good threads and tutorials on this forum and understands it starts (not necessarily ends) with the track bar. I figure tackling this is how I become familiar with Helga's front end.

So I started with the track bar. I bought a new one and when replacing it last weekend I saw, with no surprise, that the frame side track bar bracket is indeed oval-ed out. What are my best options to tackle the bad bracket? I don't weld. This a stock 2008 Wrangler X.

I probably won't stop at the track bar, especially if that doesn't fix the problem, I will probably look into replacing most of the front end, but I'm going to take piece by piece, within reason, as I am still learning.

Thanks.
 

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Upgrade the bolts while you're at it.....
 

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Synergy Jeep JK Front Track Bar Brace

Requires unbolting the steering box which will be a pain, but no welding.

^^^ This

I did this a few months back, I went with the package that included the sector shaft brace. I also replaced my steering gearbox because there was a lot of slop. There’s nothing technically difficult about the job, but it’s physically hard to support the steering gearbox - much easier job with one additional person to help.

I highly recommend doing a dry steer test - engine off but steering unlocked (key in position I), have someone turn the wheel back and forth and see what moves. I found that my drag link ends were shot, so I replaced the drag link with the MetalCloak HD part.

Ian


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I'd spend the cash and have a shop do it right if you can't weld. A couple ways to go are welding a new plate over the existing wallowed hole, or drilling and having a hole washer of the correct size welded into place... what I did...

https://www.kartek.com/parts-categories/weld-washers.html
 

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^^^ This

I did this a few months back, I went with the package that included the sector shaft brace. I also replaced my steering gearbox because there was a lot of slop. There’s nothing technically difficult about the job, but it’s physically hard to support the steering gearbox - much easier job with one additional person to help.
(...)
Could the steering box be supported from above during the process? Perhaps using a chain or strap slung over a 2x4 brace across the engine bay?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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I just did the Synergy Bracket and Sector Shaft on my 2016 Rubi, and install is very straight forward. For the steering box, leave the last bolt in, but loose. Then put a crowbar or long wrenches under it to support it up. Take the bolt out and slide on the plate. I them quickly slipped in a long screw driver in the top hole. This aloud me then to adjust the steering box to get a bolt in.

Watch this video as it helped me see what is really needed to do:

I think the hardest part was the sector shaft, and still not sure if I will leave that part on or not. I have to fully flex first to make sure I don't hit it.

Ken~
 

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Could the steering box be supported from above during the process? Perhaps using a chain or strap slung over a 2x4 brace across the engine bay?

It’s not that bad. I “could” have done it myself, but it was much easier for me to hold it in place while my tiny and frail wife spun a couple of bolts in with the impact wrench.


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When you take all the bolts out of the steering box it just sits on the inside of the frame rail.....you might need to mallet the bracket in place but then just lift the steering box back up and start the first bolt.....it's a super easy install....
 

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OK. I have some death wobble action going on. I've read some very good threads and tutorials on this forum and understands it starts (not necessarily ends) with the track bar. I figure tackling this is how I become familiar with Helga's front end.

So I started with the track bar. I bought a new one and when replacing it last weekend I saw, with no surprise, that the frame side track bar bracket is indeed oval-ed out. What are my best options to tackle the bad bracket? I don't weld. This a stock 2008 Wrangler X.

I probably won't stop at the track bar, especially if that doesn't fix the problem, I will probably look into replacing most of the front end, but I'm going to take piece by piece, within reason, as I am still learning.

Thanks.
If you are in central California, I can do the welding for you, I have some spare ruff stuff weld washers or you can get the TF weld on piece and I'll get it set for you. (I did it on mine)
 

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If you upgrade the bolts, go with the metal cloak bolt kit. (wish I saw it first) The difference is it has flags on the nuts. Most upgrade kits have nylock. Meaning you need 2 people to get them to torque down.
 

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I just did the Synergy Bracket and Sector Shaft on my 2016 Rubi, and install is very straight forward. For the steering box, leave the last bolt in, but loose. Then put a crowbar or long wrenches under it to support it up. Take the bolt out and slide on the plate. I them quickly slipped in a long screw driver in the top hole. This aloud me then to adjust the steering box to get a bolt in.

Watch this video as it helped me see what is really needed to do:
https://youtu.be/s0Yc8le3SmE

I think the hardest part was the sector shaft, and still not sure if I will leave that part on or not. I have to fully flex first to make sure I don't hit it.

Ken~
Thank You for the video, just learned something new....

sandan
 

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I'd spend the cash and have a shop do it right if you can't weld. A couple ways to go are welding a new plate over the existing wallowed hole, or drilling and having a hole washer of the correct size welded into place... what I did...

https://www.kartek.com/parts-categories/weld-washers.html
Looking at that Synergy solution, I'm calling shenanigans on the premise that it's a substandard solution and that doing it "right" means welding in some washers or a plate.

That bracket looks beefy. It looks to me that the end result is better than original. I don't see anything at all "wrong" about that.
 

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Looking at that Synergy solution, I'm calling shenanigans on the premise that it's a substandard solution and that doing it "right" means welding in some washers or a plate.

That bracket looks beefy. It looks to me that the end result is better than original. I don't see anything at all "wrong" about that.
I never stated the Synergy bracket is a substandard solution or wrong at all. I did say "doing it right" would be to use weld-in step washers or plate. What I should have said is "less expensive solutions are...". There is nothing "wrong" with the Synergy solution... the bracket is tough and will do exactly what they say it will and like many of the upgrades we do to our Jeeps, the result is stronger than original as you point out.

That said, weld-in step washers strengthen the stock bracket. You can spend $100 for the bolt-on solution, or <$7 for a weld-in washer. It will depend on how much strength is desired, and how much cash the OP wants to spend.
 

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That said, weld-in step washers strengthen the stock bracket. You can spend $100 for the bolt-on solution, or <$7 for a weld-in washer. It will depend on how much strength is desired, and how much cash the OP wants to spend.
Ah. I understand now.

If you can do it yourself or know someone who can then this will be cheaper.

If have to pay a shop to do it and can install the bracket yourself though, then the Synergy solution is probably cheaper and better.

If you can't do anything yourself... well... toss a coin? :)
 
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