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Discussion Starter #1
I have been piecing my steering together as stock components wore out. I finally have the steersmarts track bar, drag link and tie rod installed. I also already replaced hardware with the shouldered grade 8 bolts. I still have a bit of what I would describe as "bump steer" (I get decent steering feedback for 1-2 seconds) when hitting certain rough patches on very rough roads. My track bar and drag link are parallel, and overall my steering is great 99% of the time. I could easily live with it the way it is, but if I can clean it up a bit more, that would be fantastic.

My question is, I having been looking at bracing the frame side track bar bracket. Many companies have sector shaft braces as well. Of course they all say to use their parts you need to also use their track bar. How necessary is a sector shaft brace? Or would just the track bar brace be enough? I'm only running 35s and have no intention of going larger. The vehicle isn't a daily driver; but where I typically wheel, rock crawling isn't all that common. If a sector shaft brace isn't all that necessary, it'll save me quite a bit being able to just brace the track bar bracket and keeping my existing TB.
 

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Mine did what your describing and it was the ball joints, I had teraflex hd ball joints installed and it fixed it, when I would hit a pothole my steering wheel would go side to side for a second or two
 

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Post some basics so folks can troubleshoot this with you - such as:
Lift? (Too high ... Geometry shot...)
Alignment specs? (Enough Caster...)
Tire pressure? (excessive...)
Miles? (Bushings can be/are shot, shocks are toast causing excess/incorrect suspension movement)...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's a 2015 JK
It has a 2.5" metalcloak lift with rocksport shocks. It did the exact same thing previously with a 3" Teraflex lift with Rancho shocks that were swapped out a few months ago for the metalcloak parts.
I'm running right around 3.8° of caster now, no change when I lost caster with the aftermarket DS.
Tires are at 28psi
The track bar, and control arms have about 30k miles, the drag link 10k and tie rod less than 5k. The ball joints have about 15k on them, and I just adjusted and greased them with no change.
The drag link and track bar are parallel with each other as well.
I only noticed it once I destroyed the steering stabilizer, which I haven't been running for roughly 20k miles.
 

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Looks like you need caster. More caster = more straight-line stability and faster return to center. 2.5" MC lift likely raised your front end quite a bit. While factory caster specs are around 3.4-5.5deg, anthing less than 4-4.5deg will result in flighty/twitchy steering.

sent via cone of silence
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I can't imagine it being a caster issue? It did it when I had over 4.5° of caster when I still had the stock driveshaft as well. 🤷🏼‍♂️ I'm only so low on caster now as it is because any more and the driveshaft vibrates.

It also isn't a "constant" I could hit the same bump ten times and only have it happen once. Other than this, it tracks perfectly straight, isn't flighty, and the steering returns to center properly.

Like I said, I destroyed the stabilizer, and haven't run one since, nor do I have one for it. It is still perfectly driveable, and even when it gives issues, it continues straight, and I can still control it with only a couple fingers loosely holding the wheel. I honestly could ignore it. But if I can fix it that would be the preferred thing.

I will gladly pull the DS and adjust for more caster to see if I can get it to go away though
 

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I can't imagine it being a caster issue? It did it when I had over 4.5° of caster when I still had the stock driveshaft as well. 🤷🏼‍♂️ I'm only so low on caster now as it is because any more and the driveshaft vibrates.

It also isn't a "constant" I could hit the same bump ten times and only have it happen once. Other than this, it tracks perfectly straight, isn't flighty, and the steering returns to center properly.

Like I said, I destroyed the stabilizer, and haven't run one since, nor do I have one for it. It is still perfectly driveable, and even when it gives issues, it continues straight, and I can still control it with only a couple fingers loosely holding the wheel. I honestly could ignore it. But if I can fix it that would be the preferred thing.

I will gladly pull the DS and adjust for more caster to see if I can get it to go away though
I don't know if what you are complaining about is caused by your low caster, but I do know that the amount of caster you say you have is too low and will cause stability issues. You want around 5 degrees of caster for a lifted Jeep on bigger tires. Will increasing caster fix your issue? Maybe, maybe not. But it is what I would try first given we know your caster is low and we know caster is directly related to stability.
 

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Did you get recent alignment? Have you tested for bumpsteering?

Get couple big buddy and have them hoop on front bumper. If steering wheel turn left/right, you got bump steer.

Eugene
 

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Bump steer in a lifted jeep is caused by the track bar and drag link not running at the same angle to each other. Because they are different lengths when you hit a bump the longer bar has to move in a different arc causing the the steering wheel to turn. The fix is very simple and usually just entails installing a raised track bar bracket to make the two linkages run on the same plane.

If your steering is all around flighty and won't return to center after turning etc.. that is a caster issue. But, based on what you need for your driveshaft vibration issue you may have to reach a compromise between steering and vibrations issues.
 

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Right and his are parallel so you asking why there seems to be bumpsteer. Mines doing same thing and I’m on stock suspension and steering. I thought it was bumpsteer or bad stabilizer. Both are fine. I recall not having this on stock tires and only notice when I put on bigger tire. I’ve lowered the tire pressure that lessen the effect and it’s still there. I got to thinkin that maybe tire rubber and taller side wall with high tire pressure might make it more bouncy on dirt roads. I’m going to play with tire pressure to see if there any more changes. I’ve hope PO can figure it out.

FYI. I have the trackbar brace but not the sector brace. This will not help with the help with the issue.

Eugene
 

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How necessary is a sector shaft brace? Or would just the track bar brace be enough? I'm only running 35s and have no intention of going larger. If a sector shaft brace isn't all that necessary, it'll save me quite a bit being able to just brace the track bar bracket and keeping my existing TB.
Since you have steersmarts, I'm guessing that should give you enough flex in the steering not to need the sector shaft brace? Just doing the trackbar brace and steersmarts gave me a net improvement in stability at freeway speeds.

To add the steering shaft brace, the shape of the trackbar is important, and I can confirm that it won't work with the 2017 factory TB. Even if you use a TB with a more accommodating shape, both Synergy and JCR recommend 2" bumpstop extension for the sector shaft brace.
 

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